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techi
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Hello

Post by techi »

Hello all from Ireland, have a 2016 FJR1300 got it a little over a year now and loving it. I’ve some work to do, so plenty of reading and questions to follow.


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FJRPittsburgh
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Re: Hello

Post by FJRPittsburgh »

Welcome techi!
2013 Yamaha FJR1300A
2013 Honda CRF250L
2018 Yamaha FZ-07
2019 Yamaha Tracer 900 GT
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FastPappy
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Re: Hello

Post by FastPappy »

Welcome from the Big Apple and congrats on your new ride. Enjoy! :D
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wheatonFJR
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Re: Hello

Post by wheatonFJR »

Welcome from South Carolina, backed up against some nice mountain roads. Looks like you're looking for technical information. I can't help with that, but there are some good guys on this board to help with that. It may take you awhile to separate the wheat from the chaff. Welcome from one of the chaff.
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techi
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Re: Hello

Post by techi »

Thanks for the welcome guys, technically and mechanically bike is 100%, it did however have a fall while stationary and on stand. Long story but it was knocked over whilst in my garage as a result I’ve both mirror stays to repair, front fairing and tank damaged. It’s a former blood bike as you can tell from photos, I volunteer as a Blood biker and when bike became available I snatched with both hands.
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Hppants
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Re: Hello

Post by Hppants »

Welcome from South Louisiana. I suppose one really does learn something new every day - now I know that a "Blood Bike" is a police unit.

The Gen 3 front stay is made from what we call "pot metal" - it is NOT weldable, unfortunately. Some have had luck using JB Weld or other epoxy based materials to reinforce partially broken mirror tabs, but it would appear that yours have completely broken off? If so, I would suggest you replace the entire Front Stay. If looking for used - 2016 - 2023 will work.

My other suggestion is to point out that when removing the upper fairing, don't forget about the small phillips screws (2 on each side) that are only accessible from the INSIDE of the fairing once you get close to the end. These fasteners are used to attach the upper fairing plastic to the lower fairing plastic.

Good luck.
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CraigRegs
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Re: Hello

Post by CraigRegs »

Greetings and welcome from America's heartland. I believe a "blood bike" is one used to deliver blood and similar medical goods to hospitals, no? Replacing that front stay will be a good way to get very familiar with the front end workings. Highly recommend a Factory service manual if you don't have one already.
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techi
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Re: Hello

Post by techi »

Spot on with blood bikes delivering blood and other such products.

Not sure if I can post the link but here goes.

http://www.cuchulainnbloodbikes.ie/

I will attempt to strip bike in the morning and see if there’s anything I can salvage/repair. Bodywork is not something I’ve repaired in the past so I might be best to strip and let a professional do the rest.


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Hppants
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Re: Hello

Post by Hppants »

Where is the link (on the other sandbox) that shows (with detailed images) steps to remove the plastics?
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LKLD
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Re: Hello

Post by LKLD »

Welcome from “Flatistan”, and best of luck getting your ‘16 fixed back up.


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raYzerman
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Re: Hello

Post by raYzerman »

I'm trying to understand the two round black items just below where the mirror attaches..... attempts to clamp the cracked pieces together?? In any event, it might be more prudent to replace the entire nose fairing rather than repair it/paint.... you may be able to get it in the white on your side of the pond.
Otherwise, you'll be looking for the missing pieces, learning how to weld plastic or epoxy it, fill, sand, prep for paint and paint... I'm just saying judging the extent of your damage, I'd replace the panel as you'll likely be spending easily the cost of it anyway.

The cast aluminum mirror stay itself is easily a day+ job as the nose fairing has to come off, and the windshield motor, wire harness, etc. as you go. Take pictures as you disassemble and you'll be good.
mcatrophy documented his replacement, but note on page3 he uses an orange screwdriver to attempt removal of a "hidden" screw..... note there is no need to do this at all, it holds the headlights to the nose fairing and is removed after you have the unit as an assembly removed first..... make note he tells you how to remove side fairings in a separate section. You must do this first.

http://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20160706_mir ... p?start=24

There is also a video likely worth watching just for the experience......... I've replaced two of these and can also recommend you get a helper for some of it........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWX97-K7gzM
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techi
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Re: Hello

Post by techi »

There’s quite a bite involved alright, just watched that video and it will and has been a great help thank you so much. It’ll take away a lot of guess work. Brilliant I’ll be in my element working on it tomorrow. The boss is away shopping with her friends I’m left to my own devices and looking forward to it. Thanks again.


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CraigRegs
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Re: Hello

Post by CraigRegs »

Also, raYzerman is one of the highly regarded tech gurus here. Wise men seek out and heed his advice.
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Uncle Hud
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Re: Hello

Post by Uncle Hud »

Greetings, Irishman! My 2015 has had a gimpy left mirror stay for years. I used the JB Weld strategy, buttressed with three super-heavy-duty zipties -- perhaps better described as cable bundling ties. They've worked fine for 50,000 miles, with no discernable mirror shake.
Last edited by Uncle Hud on Sun Dec 10, 2023 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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0face
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Re: Hello

Post by 0face »

Any progress on the repairs? We're all waiting to give our opinions.
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wheatonFJR
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Re: Hello

Post by wheatonFJR »

0face wrote: Sun Dec 10, 2023 2:44 pm Any progress on the repairs? We're all waiting to give our opinions.
He's from Ireland... he doesn't give a fk about YOUR opinion.


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