Rear Wheel Bearings

[Canadian FJR]

In Nova Scotia, we are required to get a Motor Vehicle Inspection (MVI) done every two years. New vehicle is initially good for three years.

During this inspection a tech checks safety items such as tire tread depth, brakes, lights, horns and wheel bearings.
During inspection the tech looks up and me and says “ your gonna hate me. Your rear wheel bearings are loose.”

I have two rims so there is likely less than 40,000 km on this rim.

I get down and wiggle my rear wheel by holding it at 12:00 & 6:00, sure enough I get some slight movement.

When back home in the garage I pull the wheel to check things out but the bearings are all good. Knowing that there was movement I kinda decided that maybe I felt a very slight drag on the single bearing on the brake side. I also determined that there is no c-clip holding the bearing in but a Yamaha specialty tool required to remove the 41 mm hex bearing retainer. Hexagon Wrench Y01525.
I spent all day trying to find something that would work with no luck So I decided to get one made.

I also decided to get a second, third & forth opinion on the status of the bearing and every tech I spoke with thought they were fine.

This morning I decided to try my spare rim and the exact same movement. To go one step further I stopped in to see two other FJR buddies and check their rear wheel for movement. An ‘04 had very very slight moment, a 2016 with very low miles had the exact same movement as mine.

The bike is now back together with the original bearings.
There is some very slight movement but I am confident that this is normal for the newer models. A huge thanks to Ray for holding my hand through this. I suspect the cush drive may be slightly softer if maybe a bit different in design from older models.

Curious what others have experienced.

If anyone ever needs this tool, feel free to reach out. It’s a shame if it never gets used.

Canadian FJR

[FJRoss]

Never heard of wheel bearings being "loose". I have had them feel "notchy" before when changing tires (I always check) which means they are pretty much done. They are REALLY done if they make an audible grinding noise.

Never checked for them being loose.

[Cav47]

I had my front one go bad a year or so ago. As FjRoss said above, they feel notchy and it was very perceptible after it failed. Mine was making a grinding noise at times. After I got the bike home, it literally fell apart as I took it out.

I ordered new ones and put them in myself. Obviously it can’t be a complicated job. The harder at part was getting the opposite side of the failed one out. I replaced both for preventive measures.

I had advice and phone a friend help from some folks here, but if I can fix it, anyone can.


As for the movement that is still there, is it possible that the swing arm is. It fully “squeezed” down? Are you getting a little play from that? I always loosen up the pinch bolt after I tighten the axle bolt, let it recenter and then tighten it back up. You do have the washer and spacer in there correctly right? I only ask this because I could see someone as unskilled as myself making that mistake.

I am betting it is really nominal play or the swing arm is not fully squeezing the wheel.

[griff]

I always loosen up the pinch bolt after I tighten the axle bolt, let it recenter and then tighten it back up.

Why would you have the pinch bolt tightened when tightening up the axle? You want the axle to center before tightening up the pinch bolt

[Geezer]

So, did you convince the tech. to let your motorcycle pass inspection even with the perceived loose wheel bearing?

This is so unusual that I have to ask, is this a trusted shop and technician?

[Canadian FJR]

Very trusted tech and a good guy, private shop. He was good about it and we agreed to let me pull things apart to investigate. I’ll follow up with him this week.

Canadian FJR

[Cav47]

I always loosen up the pinch bolt after I tighten the axle bolt, let it recenter and then tighten it back up.

Why would you have the pinch bolt tightened when tightening up the axle? You want the axle to center before tightening up the pinch bolt

Because I do not have the really big allen wrench. I use the pinch bolt to keep the axle from turning when I tighten the nut. Then I loosen the pinch bolt and let the axle center. It always moves a little. I tighten up the pinch bolt and then snug it down again on the nut.

[raYzerman]

Get yourself a metric bolt with the correct size head, fully threaded and run down a couple of nuts to jam in line with it. Now you got yourself a hex tool. Make one for the front while yer at it.... different size of course.

Very rare for FJR rear wheel bearings to fail, and there is a tad teeny bit of play in the cush drive that may translate into perceived larger movement at the OD of the tire. Grease the axle shaft so some grease makes it into the middle needle bearing, or take the cush drive out and grease 'er up. We did see one of those fail due to absence of grease, only one I know of.

[griff]

I always loosen up the pinch bolt after I tighten the axle bolt, let it recenter and then tighten it back up.

Why would you have the pinch bolt tightened when tightening up the axle? You want the axle to center before tightening up the pinch bolt

Because I do not have the really big allen wrench. I use the pinch bolt to keep the axle from turning when I tighten the nut. Then I loosen the pinch bolt and let the axle center. It always moves a little. I tighten up the pinch bolt and then snug it down again on the nut.

Ahh, ok. What Ray says above.

[N4HHE]

I always loosen up the pinch bolt after I tighten the axle bolt, let it recenter and then tighten it back up.

Why would you have the pinch bolt tightened when tightening up the axle? You want the axle to center before tightening up the pinch bolt

I tighten the big nut until axle turns then I know slack is out of the spacers, then tighten the pinch bolt and back to the big 27mm nut. The right side of the swing arm has about 1/8" of flex. If you saw the axle was flush with the swing arm before disassembly then you could put it back to flush, tighten the pinch bolt, then tighten the big nut.

Keep a 14mm hex drive handy. Sometimes use, sometimes do not. Same for the front but have a near-universal motorcycle multi-size that fits front not rear. Think the front is 17mm? I have a 17mm hex key somewhere in the garage as VW and Porsche transmission drains used. Front same as rear, if the right side of the axle was flush with the fork before disassembly then you can put it back to flush, tighten the pinch bolts on the right, tighten 22mm bolt on the left, then the left pinch bolts.

[Bust]

Retard mode, double post removed.

[Bust]

Get yourself a metric bolt with the correct size head, fully threaded and run down a couple of nuts to jam in line with it. Now you got yourself a hex tool. Make one for the front while yer at it.... different size of course.

Grease the axle shaft so some grease makes it into the middle needle bearing, or take the cush drive out and grease 'er up. We did see one of those fail due to absence of grease, only one I know of.

That was an adventure when Tripper Mikes failed. We had to facilitate a rework using a drill for a lathe to get him rolling again.
Not many realize that bastage is in there.