FJRiders.com

Here’s a down and dirty Oil Change. I kept forgetting to take pictures. I purposely left the type of oil I used out of it so you knuckleheads wouldn't start a “what’s the best oil” thread.

Parts Needed:
Oil Filter
One Crush Washer
5 Quarts of oil

Tools Needed:
4mm Allen Wrench or equivalent socket wrench
Socket Wrench with a 17mm Socket
Drain Pan (for the old oil)
Filter Wrench
Funnel
Sheet of Tin Foil
Paper towels
Torque Wrench if you’re anal

Here are a couple shots of the shop manual for your torque specs, etc:













Put your bike up on the center stand. You can put a piece of wood under the center stand if you want to get a little more height. It’s not necessary though.



Here we go.


Don't do this if the engine is hot, semi-warm OK, hot bad.

Take off the fill plug. Do this BEFORE draining any oil. It shouldn't be problem to get off and it's good practice to always take off fill plugs FIRST. The last thing you want is to drain everything and not be able to get that fooker off.




Take out the lower fastener on the left fairing: Horrible pic I know. It's the 4mm allen.


Be sure to keep track of your bolts they have a tendency to wander.

Wrap the lower fairing with tinfoil. This keeps the oil from getting all over then plastic parts.

Put your Drain Pan under the Drain Bolt.



With the 17mm socket loosen the drain bolt, then unscrew. The oil will come gushing out. Let it drain and clean off the bolt, removing the crush washer on the bolt.


Use the filter wrench to loosen the filter, and unscrew. Oil will drain from here too. This is where the tin foil comes in handy.




After the oil has drained clean off the surfaces where the drain bolt goes and the filter go.



Put the new crush washer on the bolt as in the picture above and screw back in. Be careful to seat the drain bolt so you don't cross thread the hole, that would suck. Torque to spec 31ft-lb. I usually just tighten it enough to crush the washer then a little. I've never had a problem. But do it your way. Be careful not to over-tighten.

Take the plastic off the filter, yes I said it.


Open your new oil and take a small dab of oil and put it on the O-ring. It helps the O-ring not bind. They seem to come with a little grease on them theses days but I still put a little oil on them. Just a touch.


Spin the filter on making sure to seat the threads properly. You can Torque it to 12ft-lb. I usually tighten it a quarter turn past just hand tight.

Funnel goes in the fill hole and add four quarts of oil, plus some from the 5th. The manual says 4.23qts with a filter change. Be sure to check the sight glass next to the filter. Don't overfill it. Watch for any leaks.




Put the fill plug back in, Start the engine and let it run for a minute, turn off and let sit for a few minutes. Double check the sight glass. It should be between the dots.

Take the tin foil off, clean up any oil, put the 4mm fastener back in the fairing, put all your crap away and you're done.

May I add ...always make sure the old o-ring is not left on the motor. Can cause a major leak

0face wrote:Frickin' pictures get all screwy on Apple devices.

I don't see an issue.

Good writeup.

First thing I learned to do myself on the FJR.

Good write-up.
Optional - use a 6" or so length of wire to hold the lower fairing away from the engine so oil doesn't get on it. The foil is still a good idea.
Optional - use flat aluminum washer (Honda) for drain plug and torque to 20-22 ft. lbs. It is re-usable many many times. Use at rear diff as well.
DO NOT EVAR - torque to 31 ft. lbs. specified by Yamaha or you may end up with a stripped drain plug hole.

Added 10-26-16 - When snugging the Yamaha crush washer, once it crushes a bit, it will be constant torque. I recall that elsewhere that torque is ~17 ft. lbs. (I have not tested this), but the point is you can leave the torque wrench in the tool box. Once you've reached the constant torque part, you can stop, it won't come loose. As well, revised my recommended torque on the Honda flat washer to 20-22. If you go beyond 22 that washer will distort more and after a few oil changes it will tend to wrap itself around the drain bolt.. If you use a torque wrench, be sure it is verified/calibrated... we'll get a DIY tech tip done on this too, methinks.

Everything looks good though I have one substitution that I use. Rather then foil, I use plastic wrap. Doesn't scratch the paint, clings well if there happens to be a good breeze going too.

SUP my peoples

DO NOT use torque wrenches. f@$king things lie so much that you cant see a tip of their nose. 2 weeks ago was changing chain and sprockets on my FZ and sure enough, had a brain fart and reached for the f@$king torque wrench. Now I am going to be doing more changes to the bike because of it.

And I do like virgin italian oil

I'm reading this now.

These threads will be strictly tech related, as in keeping the the spirit of this subforum. We have more than enough area's to post garbage, let's keep these tech threads useful and uncluttered.

No, I'm investigating deleted posts comment...

Wayne

Posts to keep.

hollywoodgt wrote:May I add ...always make sure the old o-ring is not left on the motor. Can cause a major leak

raYzerman wrote:Good write-up.
Optional - use a 6" or so length of wire to hold the lower fairing away from the engine so oil doesn't get on it. The foil is still a good idea.
Optional - use flat aluminum washer (Honda) for drain plug and torque to 22 ft. lbs. It is re-usable many many times. Use at rear diff as well.
DO NOT EVAR - torque to 31 ft. lbs. specified by Yamaha or you may end up with a stripped drain plug hole.

Calimus wrote:Everything looks good though I have one substitution that I use. Rather then foil, I use plastic wrap. Doesn't scratch the paint, clings well if there happens to be a good breeze going too.

Cougar8000 wrote:SUP my peoples

DO NOT use torque wrenches. f@$king things lie so much that you cant see a tip of their nose. 2 weeks ago was changing chain and sprockets on my FZ and sure enough, had a brain fart and reached for the f@$king torque wrench. Now I am going to be doing more changes to the bike because of it.

And I do like virgin italian oil

Ok, all side bar discussion posts have been moved here.

MOVED. Not deleted. Threads in the tech section will be monitored to ensure the conversation stays on target. The intent is to host useful content here- there's plenty of areas here to play duck, duck, goose; this sub forum will not be a playground.

Wayne

raYzerman wrote:Good write-up.
Optional - use a 6" or so length of wire to hold the lower fairing away from the engine so oil doesn't get on it. The foil is still a good idea.

I have found the (empty) oil filter box is a perfect fit to space the lower fairing out of the drip stream.

Don't wanna be a dink here but... The miniscule amount of spillage doesn't warrant the extra effort of keeping it off the lowers..
A good rain will wash it off, or if yer ghey a bit of soap and water will do ya.


Just my opinion though.

Bust wrote:Don't wanna be a dink here but... The miniscule amount of spillage doesn't warrant the extra effort of keeping it off the lowers..
A good rain will wash it off, or if yer ghey a bit of soap and water will do ya.


Just my opinion though.

How the Hell would you know?? You don't even own an FJR and when you did, you didn't ride it enough to ever need an oil change. Jackass!!

For the newby that is unsure of the easy peasy oil change it is a good write up with pictures.


There are a couple things I do slightly different but then that's just me.

huron52 wrote:For the newby that is unsure of the easy peasy oil change it is a good write up with pictures.


There are a couple things I do slightly different but then that's just me.

That was kinda the point. I was doing an oil change and figured I'd take a few pictures with my phone. If you have anything to add feel free to add your .02 I won't be offended.

0face wrote:

huron52 wrote:For the newby that is unsure of the easy peasy oil change it is a good write up with pictures.


There are a couple things I do slightly different but then that's just me.

That was kinda the point. I was doing an oil change and figured I'd take a few pictures with my phone. If you have anything to add feel free to add your .02 I won't be offended.

YEA...and try not to piss anyone off

Nice write up. I use a walmart type plastic bag to cover the lower fairing. My '05 came with highway pegs, so I have to take it off to get the filter off. I use a mobile 1 long filter also

General oil change hint:

When lubing the new gasket, just take the old filter and make the new and old gaskets "kiss". Lubes the new gasket and more importantly forces you to know that you know you know the old gasket isn't stuck to the engine block. It makes a hell of a mess if it is.

Also, I have noticed that most motorcycle oils are being sold in Liters here instead of quarts. So, 4 liters is perfect, IIRC. No need to buy the 5th liter.

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Additional hints:
If you don't over-tighten the drain bolt there is no need to change the crush washer. I have done at least six changes with the same one and not even the slightest leakage. (I do keep a spare JIC)
If you don't over-tighten your oil filter there should be no need for a tool to remove it. It should come off by hand.
Good info for everyone on making sure the filter o-ring comes off with the old filter.

Intech wrote:Additional hints:
If you don't over-tighten the drain bolt there is no need to change the crush washer. I have done at least six changes with the same one and not even the slightest leakage. (I do keep a spare JIC)
If you don't over-tighten your oil filter there should be no need for a tool to remove it. It should come off by hand.
Good info for everyone on making sure the filter o-ring comes off with the old filter.

Very true about the washer. I have always opted for a nylon washer from the local parts store. It seals well and is reusable. I have also been known to use spark plug washers of the appropriate size because I have a few zillion in my tool box from my wrench bending days. So, there are a couple "ICE" (In case of emergency) options for the other oil changers out there.

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Doing a search on drain plug size brought this thread up.

I think it answered my questions, but...........

Can anyone verify that I need a 17mm socket and a 4 mm allen wrench. My FJR is a 2013. Are drain plugs the same size for all years?

I need to do an oil change on the FJR this weekend and it's at my cabin a few hours away. I have changed the oil before and remember you have to have an allen wrench to loosen that bottom piece of tupperware and of course a socket for the drain plug. Don't want to lug the whole tool box up there.
I have a drain pan and funnel already there.

My barn has a sand floor. So the most exciting thing is going to be rolling the FJR onto a piece of scrap plywood I have and getting it on the center stand.