FJRiders.com

I only have one pic for now, as the weather was pretty crappy last Saturday, and call me crazy but I drove 3.5 hours in a strong headwind to Windsor, Ontario...... I've had this bike on the radar for about 3 months, and when the owner revealed his bottom line on a phone call, decision made to go get it. 2010 CBF1000FA (never available in USA), this is a Mark II, updated from the red Mark I, I had a few years ago. Same smooth and linear power but up a bit to 106 HP, 540 lbs., a mere 23k kms (14k miles) on it. Custom paint with the black on top of the gold (normally it would be all gold), one little scratch on the tank that may buff out, and a small dent in the exhaust I'll live with. Pretty much stock except for the rear rack. Custom painted black (not shown) Givi Maxia E52 top box included.

So, the farkle list has been started and looking forward to riding it in the spring.

That looks a little less upright than the big Hornet, but still "tourable". You do seem to have a soft spot for the Honda that's a bit more on the "sport" side.

Subscribed.....

Hppants wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2024 10:42 am That looks a little less upright than the big Hornet, but still "tourable". You do seem to have a soft spot for the Honda that's a bit more on the "sport" side.

Subscribed.....

I've noticed that as well.

Cool looking bike. What's the logic for not bringing bikes to the U.S. but yes to Canada? Thought the market was pretty much the same.

Congrats on finding one! And Mark II is the best one to have I think....way fewer issues with the stator if nothing else. I'll look around the garage and see if I can find any farkles, accessories left from my 2012. For sure, I have a mint condition exhaust that you are welcome to have if you want it.

Looks like a pretty easy "Project" to me. A low mileage Honda won't need much done on it. Most boring project ever on what looks like a really fun bike.

Looking forward to seeing where it takes you.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2024 10:02 am looking forward to riding it in the spring.

Ummm, it's on a trailer. Point it south and start driving. Eventually, you'll end up somewhere that you can ride it now

Festus wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2024 12:25 pm

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2024 10:02 am looking forward to riding it in the spring.

Ummm, it's on a trailer. Point it south and start driving. Eventually, you'll end up somewhere that you can ride it now

Today? He'd have to drive further than normal to find that today. Even here in Texas we have white stuff on the ground.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2024 2:02 pm Today? He'd have to drive further than normal to find that today. Even here in Texas we have white stuff on the ground.

Same in Virginia. Might have to get to Mexico today?

No snow in North Georgia!

-16C here this morning, not going anywhere. I got it good and dirty on the trailer ride home, and had taken it to the spray car wash, gave it a good blow dry with compressed air when I got home. Spent some time today in the warm shop, taking rear rack and plastic off, installed LED signals and new flasher unit, lubed signal switch (original grease dried and made it stiff), scouted out locations for shift indicator and voltmeter, dug out the diagnostic connector which is very well buried behind the engine and no wiggle room, ordered pannier racks and new wider handlebars, checked a few known potential electrical connection issues (all good). I notice my left signal indicator in the dash is not working, will have to dig in and see if LED is blown.... It's gonna look rather naked for the next coupla weeks.......

Toter wrote: ↑Mon Jan 15, 2024 8:04 pm No snow in North Georgia!

Hell, we hardly have any snow in North Dakota either but it's colder that a dead witches tit.

Bringing that to SEO?

If I go, yes. I'm not sure if I can make it yet.

So yesterday, I investigate the left turn signal indicator light..... plastic off, dash plastic off, see the indicator lights are a separate module (called Pilot Box Assy.). It's mounted into the dash plastic separately above the instruments, contains all the warning lights. Got the mounting screws out, removed the lens bezel, hoping to find a loose wire or such..... turn left signal on, and as I pressed on the LED, it works! Surface mounted LED rectangular (SMD)... will require delicate re-solder by somebody with experience and good eyes, or replace the module.

Since it wasn't imported into the US, fewer parts available, so checked a number of European OEM parts sites, appears to be unobtanium, and OEM price is the equivalent of C$684. Well, there goes that theory... now looking for an electronics shop that has experience replacing SMD's and if so, should really upgrade them to brighter ones...... only place I know for bikes is BlueGauges.com in Buffalo...... now to get the module out, I have to remove the windshield and nose plastic to get at the electrical connector buried in the middle of the nose..... lotta work for such a little thing.

I have not located any good electronics places yet who do that shit, but off tomorrow to an electronics supply house who may know somebody... meanwhile had looked at several videos of how it's done, and well, let's just say it's like microsurgery I don't feel qualified to tackle... maybe.

Bike is looking rather naked now..... so the good news is, the windshield adjusters are seized up, little ball bearings in the sliders (also buried under the nose plastic). Service manual details how to fix all that..... one adjusts the windshield manually by grabbing both sides and sliding into one of 4 detents.....

The two end ones are the green LED's for the signal indicators......

I am (and always have been) envious of your ability to "figure things out", mechanically, electrically, electronically, and on all manners of motorcycles. Clearly, it's rooted in an innate knowledge of "how things work".

On my very best day, I'm a mediocre parts changer. You sir, are a mechanic.

Hard to say whether the issue is a bad connection between the LED and the board, a bad LED or a circuit board trace that makes connection when pressure is applied. Definitely calls for someone with specific expertise at this sort of repair.

I'm a bit interested in the motor on that thing. From my understanding, it is essentially a (very) detuned version of the engine from the Fireblade. (CBR1000RR). On one hand, it should be way understressed with just 106 HP making for great long-term reliability. OTOH, there may be some easy mods for power gains. (I haven't looked at any of that stuff, just curious.)

I think it is just cracked solder on one side....
I have previous experience with the red 2009 I had, and no tuning mods planned. It's great as it is, smooth and liner and enough oomph. Seat is another story...... all of them were butt numbing.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Jan 17, 2024 12:26 pm I think it is just cracked solder on one side....
I have previous experience with the red 2009 I had, and no tuning mods planned. It's great as it is, smooth and liner and enough oomph. Seat is another story...... all of them were butt numbing.

Cracked solder (or a cracked board trace) seems likely and an easy repair if you have the right tools and expertise. Although I have done my share of soldering, there may be only one chance to do it right and for that I would gladly pay someone else.

I didn't know whether tuning mods were popular for this bike/motor. I read some bike reviews and a couple of writers mentioned that while the engine was well behaved, it wasn't especially inspiring although I expect 106 HP will move it along at a decent pace. Would be different if it was primarily a sportbike.
Not surprised about the seat - going with aftermarket, modification by an upholsterer or something like an Air Hawk?

I wonder if someone could hit it with one of those solder heat guns and fix it real quick. I became familiar with those watching youtube vidos on how to replace the HDMI port on a PlayStation 4. It's a common failure point and tiny little connectors and pads. Very easily and quickly done with the right tools using a solder heat gun though. Tools were too expensive for doing that one job myself, and I never sent off the board, we nursed it along until the PS5 came out.

Hey Ray you might try Short Tronics to fix the damaged circuit board.