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Well, I suppose it's time for another chapter in the Viper Dad book of motorcycling.

A couple weeks ago he told me that some times he struggled to get the bike into first gear when it was cold. After riding all day, he never had any more issues.

Yesterday, he shows up at the meeting location and tells me he can't get it into first or second gear. This problem happened a lot during the day but was not isolated to first and second. At times, he couldn't get third gear either. We looked at it a couple times and it just felt like pushing down on the level, it just wasn't going far enough. At lunch time we adjusted the linkage rod but only 1/2 a turn because it was tight and the only wrench we had wouldn't do it. After that, he had first and second again. That was short lived as he lost them again 30 minutes later.

We've talked through how the whole system works for a good hour over time and only thing I come up with his the linkage. He purged and bleed his clutch fluid in the summer. Did it right, I watched I would think if it were a shift fork, it would pop out of gear, a clutch issue, it would stall or slip. I'm not master on that system so I need some input. He changes his oil frequently and has always run YamaLube, which is what Rob used prior to Viper Dad getting it.

Any ideas? Keep in mind, it does come and go, and with the bike off, on centerstand, you cannot make it go into lower gears some times. Other times, it'll go fine.

If the shifter doesn't return to a neutral position, it can't ratchet into the next gear...... ie, shift lever not returning to a neutral position. Easiest thing to do is remove left footpeg stay, and clean/lube the pivot, and a little squirt of something in the Heim joints wouldn't hurt.... shift mechanism must move freely and return to its full travel on it's own. Common for it to get sticky after a buncha miles. Note left footpeg stay bolts all have loctite..... torque on the T50 one is stupid (too high), 20-25 is enough.

the easy button

Edit - what Ray said...
Take the footpeg piece off and examine the linkage pivot point. #9 in this diagram.

+1 on making sure the clutch is properly bled.
Verify that there is proper throw to the clutch at the lever. In particular, make sure that the brass bushing in the lever is clean, lubed and not worn.

I would remove, clean, re-lube and readjust the shifter - making sure the main pivot isn't too tight. Clean the main pivot as well as the linkages.

Other than that, it seems to me that I read where someone had a shift return spring break but I don't remember who or which spring. The result was that the shifter didn't return properly to the middle position between shifts so couldn't go to the next gear.

Thanks! Will pass it along.

Don't worry Wayne, the time is getting nearer

May be fixed. Time will tell. Both connections behind that lower cover were not freely moving. He got them freed up and put it back together and on the center stand without it running, it ran though all the gears up and down. We'll wait for feedback from a road test when it's possible for him.

Removal, clean and lube of the gearshift linkage is part of my annual maintenance. (I do it the same time as the rear brake pivot.)
The main pivot on the shifter especially but also the two "ball" joints beneath the rubber dust covers. Those ball-head Allen bolts screw out so you can properly clean and lube them. Ideally, the main pivot needs to be snug but on one of my Gen II bikes, it would bind if I went too far - wave washer was essentially flattened. I ended out moderately snug with a bit of blue Locktite on the threads as insurance. First time I did this service (after owning the bike a couple of years) I was surprised at how much better the bike shifted.

Just got the report. Shifts excellent now. All is good!

Thanks again for the help!

Thank goodness it was just a simple maintenance item...

You can ride these things like you stole them, but you do have have to give 'em some TLC every now and then...

I'm wondering how a day trip with no first or second gear will impact clutch plate life???

Wayne

extrememarine wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 4:46 pm I'm wondering how a day trip with no first or second gear will impact clutch plate life???

Wayne

We didn't stop much

extrememarine wrote: ↑Mon Jan 01, 2024 10:28 am the easy button

That's A way to fix it!

Jolene seems to be a crotchety, cantankerous old Bi zich. Always wanting attention!

Toter wrote: ↑Sat Jan 06, 2024 11:03 pm Viper Dad seems to be a crotchety, cantankerous old Bi zich. Always wanting attention!

Fixed it for you

That's awesome that it was something simple. Now he'll have more time to go out an surge that engine some more.

FJRPittsburgh wrote: ↑Sun Jan 07, 2024 7:09 pm Now he'll have more time to go out an surge that engine some more.

We may have that figured out but it'll be a bit before we get to test it out.

Just to recap....

1) We swapped tanks and the problem went away, indicating a bad fuel pump.

2) He installed a new fuel pump (aftermarket) and the problem came back.

3) We did a wild goose chase on everything else.

4) Talked to Ivan (the Ivan's Flash Guy) and he said that the aftermarket fuel pump is known to have inconsistent pressure issues which it sounded like.

We think, at this point in time, that we essentially swapped out the fuel pump with a new one that continued the same problem, rather than eliminated it from the equation.

First chance we get to spend some time on them (without snow on the Blue Ridge Parkway), we are going to swap tanks again and see if that resolves it. If so, then we know it's the aftermarket fuel pump. Ivan knew all the specs and I only wish I could repeat what he said so I could explain it as well as he did.

The fuel pressure regulator is built into the fuel pump housing..... the pump itself can be replaced with an aftermarket one, but you'll still retain the original fuel pump regulator..... one can get a spare fuel supply hose and tee into it for a pressure test fitting..........

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Jan 08, 2024 9:54 am The fuel pressure regulator is built into the fuel pump housing..... the pump itself can be replaced with an aftermarket one, but you'll still retain the original fuel pump regulator..... one can get a spare fuel supply hose and tee into it for a pressure test fitting..........

The fuel pressure regulator located in the fuel pump housing on the Gen 2 & 3 scooters is not available as a separate item from Yamaha.
But it is a common fuel pressure regulator used in many automotive applications. When the fuel pressure regulator is removed from the fuel pump there is a part number stamped on it.
Using that part number, they are available from several sources.
This is just one of those sources.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/191684542894

dan

Just out of curiosity, did you experience the surging with his tank?

Intech wrote: ↑Tue Jan 09, 2024 11:33 am Just out of curiosity, did you experience the surging with his tank?

I didn't ride with his tank on my bike, I don't think. I think it was simply taking my tank off, putting it on his bike, he test rode it for 20 minutes or so and said it was gone.