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Riding in to work tonight for my graveyard shift, I noticed the ABS light on steady when I stopped to scan my ID to get in. After I parked, I noticed that if I pulled in the front brake lever, the bike would start to stumble and likely would have stalled if I kept the lever pulled in. Release it and idle was back to normal. Anyone seen anything like this before?

Charles

chazglenn3 wrote: ↑Sun Sep 10, 2023 10:19 pm Riding in to work tonight for my graveyard shift, I noticed the ABS light on steady when I stopped to scan my ID to get in. After I parked, I noticed that if I pulled in the front brake lever, the bike would start to stumble and likely would have stalled if I kept the lever pulled in. Release it and idle was back to normal. Anyone seen anything like this before?

Charles

There is a recall on 2013 and newer (until some date I don't remember) front brake light switch. For lack of a brake light indicator on the dash the most ready way to discover is how cruise control will not engage. Push the brake lever forward, CC will now engage.

Perhaps this is related? Yes, I see you have a 2008. But brake light switches are mechanical and all mechanical things will sometimes get iffy.

I will certainly take a look at the switch. Thanks for the suggestion!

I don't think that the switch would cause the ABS light to come on for a Gen II bike. Also have no idea why applying the brake would cause an incipient stall (I assume that this is in neutral or with the clutch pulled). Don't think it could be switch related. (Does the brake light come on when you engage the brake and go out when you release it?)
Just something to check - any chance that the rear brake lever is sticking? Any evidence of brakes not disengaging fully? i.e. hot rotors. Could explain the light but not the stalling.

Only other thing that comes to mind is the fact that this is an early Gen II (2008?). I might want to have a look at possible grounding issues - spiders, in particular.

Is the ABS light lit continuously, or intermittent?
Does ABS, in fact, work?
If you pull the ABS fuse, does the engine still want to stall when applying the brake? - considering a major electrical problem within the ABS.

Good luck.

ABS light steady on could be several things. I would check the wheel sensors for corrosion, clean them up and the mounting hole and smear that with dielectric or silicon grease. If corroded, the sensor will be bridged, sending false or no signal.

Given your "stumble", check the 4-way connector at the starter relay (beside the battery) is not corroded. That has fuel system wires and the 30 amp fuse is for the ABS pump relay. Corrosion bridging??

Not sure what the stumble is, shouldn't have anything to do with applying the brakes...... however, every Gen2 should have the ground spiders looked at, cleaned and greased with a contact promoting paste such as OxGard or Noalox. There was a recall, but it addressed only S4 spider to take it straight to ground. Check to see that you are not having other electrical strangeness, and if so, could be a spider issue. However, I'd address the spiders in any case, it's only a matter of 'when' you'll have an issue, not 'if'.

Of note, there is "coupler #3", a multi-way connector under the tank, up by the steering head, not waterproof, may have corrosion.

Nothing against any of my friends that have already posted, but it's posts and threads like this that make me wish Sir Alan/Ionbeam was still in the house. He was a master at trouble shooting. He was sharp witted and would make me laugh out loud at his posts. I miss my buddy. I wish he would chime in.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 8:31 am Nothing against any of my friends that have already posted, but it's posts and threads like this that make me wish Sir Alan/Ionbeam was still in the house. He was a master at trouble shooting. He was sharp witted and would make me laugh out loud at his posts. I miss my buddy. I wish he would chime in.

Agree!!

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 8:08 am ABS light steady on could be several things. I would check the wheel sensors for corrosion, clean them up and the mounting hole and smear that with dielectric or silicon grease. If corroded, the sensor will be bridged, sending false or no signal.

I agree about the ABS sensors - definitely worth examining, cleaning and lubing (lightly) with silicone. As Ray mentioned, there could be a number of issues that might cause the ABS light to come on, but I am also puzzled by the concurrent stumble while braking.
I think pulling the ABS fuse could eliminate the ABS as the cause for the engine stumble.

Well, I went to check it out after I got off work and the battery is almost dead. Ticks me off since I just got it in March. Grabbed an Uber home and after a nap I'll go jump it. The issues must have been low voltage.

chazglenn3 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 9:04 am Well, I went to check it out after I got off work and the battery is almost dead. Ticks me off since I just got it in March. Grabbed an Uber home and after a nap I'll go jump it. The issues must have been low voltage.

Entirely possible. Strange things can happen with a failing battery!!
Hope that is the issue - simple and relatively cheap fix...

Edit: As long as there isn't a reason for the battery failure such as R/R or stator.

chazglenn3 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 11, 2023 9:04 am Well, I went to check it out after I got off work and the battery is almost dead. Ticks me off since I just got it in March. Grabbed an Uber home and after a nap I'll go jump it. The issues must have been low voltage.

Brake lights sucking so much power the EFI and fuel pump are on the edge and fail?

A failing battery can cause lots of things on an FJR... they like nice batteries.

Forgot to mention, check DiAG for error codes as there may be some stored that have to do with ABS... e.g., incorrect signals from wheel sensors....

The saga continues...

Got back to work and jump started the bike. It quit again before I got my gear on. Decided the battery was bad. Went to the nearby O'Reilly Auto and bought the battery their computer said was the one. Got back to the bike and it's too deep to fit in the spot. Oh well, got it in the best I could and rode home to get showered and changed for work. On the way back to work the ABS light started glowing and the bike lost power. FJRoss is apparently the winner in this ordeal. Something isn't working in the charging system. Got a tow truck to come get me off the side of I-5 and got an Uber back to work. Are there any usual issues with the charging system I can be pointed toward?

Someone has already mentioned something...the stator. But I'm not sure I've ever heard of a stock stator going bad...only the aftermarket Electrosport stator. Happened on my 2004.

So, more likely the rectifier?

chazglenn3 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 12, 2023 7:30 am So, more likely the rectifier?

Wouldn't count on it. There are common test procedures that can isolate issues with respect to R/R or stator. Could even be as simple as a corroded plug or connector. (Don't know if there are fuses that could cause this)

The ABS thing is a bit of a puzzle, unless the system is especially prone to low voltage issues. I am wondering if there is a problem there. Might not hurt to pull the ABS fuse and see if that makes a difference.

How much running time on the new battery (presumably fully charged) before you ran into power issues? Should be able to run for a fair time unless you are running a lot of powered accessories. (assuming something isn't sucking it dry)

First go into DiAG and retrieve any error codes.... write them down.

Have you got a decent multimeter? Charging system shouldn't be a problem... start by charging the battery overnight. Then start the bike and test charging voltage at the battery terminals, at idle and at about 3000 rpm or higher. Let us know what you found.

Next check connections at ground spiders (3 under the tank) and the multi-way connector and the 4-way at the starter relay. Check all fuses as Ross says.

My multimeter is at the other house. I'll go get it tomorrow and preform the checks. The battery has been on the charger since yesterday. I'll reinstall it and return the auto store battery that doesn't fit tomorrow also. Checking the spiders will have to wait a day or two until I can free up some time. The new battery from the auto store ran about 30 miles before it died. Not sure what the state of charge was from the box. The original battery had been sitting with the bike for about 2 weeks without the tender before I started riding it on Sunday.

Got the battery charged and reinstalled. Just sitting in the bike it shows 13.1 volts. Started the bike up and checked again and it shows 12.4 volts. Brought the engine speed up to 4,000rpm and still showing 12.4 volts. I removed and reseated the plug on the rectifier. If I am checking the codes correctly it shows 11, 14, 15, 19, 30 and 41. I haven't been able to get to the spiders.

Definitely charging issues!!

Quite an array of fault codes! Make note and compare to:
https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/diagno ... ost-117762
(if you don't have a service manual). Note that the post has both Gen I and Gen II codes.

Clear them and see which, if any, come back. Strange codes can be set when there are low voltage issues.

You have some ohmmeter and voltmeter work to do!! Also checking R/R and battery connections for corrosion and discontinuity.

While I won't say that you are clear of spider problems, I don't think they are at the root of these issues.

What should the stator be putting out? My manual is at the other house. I'm getting 50v, 40v and 20v at idle. Bad phase?