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As has happened to others, one of the covers on one of my side cases is coming loose. Despite my best efforts to ignore it and hope that it fixes itself, I know that it won't, so I'm looking for some advice on what the ideal goop would be to stick 'er back on. I know I'll need to get it all the way off and clean both surfaces and whatnot. Hopefully I don't f@$k that up too badly. Just looking for suggestions for an adhesive.

TIA

I'd use a silicone adhesive. You don't want something that dries hard, it won't expand and contract without cracking and beginning to fail. A little VHB tape (Very High Bond) in a few places to hold it while the silicone dries and you'll be all set. 3M sells VHB tape and most Lowes and Home Depots. They have a small roll, normally 3/4" or 1" wide, with a red release liner on the tape. Cut a couple small squares of that and put them in a few places and you'll have tape and silicone holding it on and you'll be all set.

Just my opinion.

My preference would be RTV, which is a silicone for higher temperatures (aka gasket maker). Lots of working time... 3M tape you'd have to have lined up the lid... it might stick in the wrong place..... optional, but the inners do fit within the perimeter of the lid fairly well.
Yamaha used some kinda mastic on the earlier ones, it dries up over time and with heat. RTV won't. Let set up 24 hours.
The 4 rivets to the hinges are 4mm or 5/32".

Ray, I only use the tape to hold things in place while the silicone dries. It's a commonly used practice in my trade these days. Silicone and have tape hold in place while silicone dries.

I would search for +silicone +adhesive for solutions. Loctite makes a product in 2.7 oz tube available from Lowes. Doesn’t say adhesive outright but is in the online title. Know there used to be a silicone adhesive caulk from 3M that was unusually sticky. GE makes something they call Iron Grip but not available in my local Home Depot.

Suze doesn't have an extra hand back there to hold it on when you're driving?

Deagle10 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 1:10 pm Suze doesn't have an extra hand back there to hold it on when you're driving?

I am NOT going to comment on this one.

Festus wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 10:12 am Ray, I only use the tape to hold things in place while the silicone dries. It's a commonly used practice in my trade these days. Silicone and have tape hold in place while silicone dries.

Got it. I misunderstood.... I thought you were talking about the 2-way.... RTV will not harden and holds like strong rubber when cured. The lid will never come off again by itself.

I have a Givi top box--not sure of the size, but it's one of the bigger ones. I've had to fiddle with it a few times because the panels around the rim (the opening) started to come apart, and the box kind of lost its integrity. I guess the parts that separated are mostly decorative, like a silver-colored plastic strip on the black plastic main box. So it's the same issue as the OP, I think. I tried some silicone sealant in a tube--some kind of "Goop" or similar product, but it eventually started to open back up, so I mixed up a fairly big batch of epoxy and smeared it all around every place that looked like it was tight enough to make contact when it was re-assembled, then put a ratcheting strap around the whole thing and let it sit. It's been a couple of years. I don't worry about taking it apart and re-doing it, so it seems to be okay.

RTV silicone is a pretty fair bet. A great alternative is a urethane windshield adhesive like the 3M product



Avoid anything with a high solvent content!! It will do nasty stuff with the plastic case and quite possibly the paint.

We finally have an answer to how long the dirt on Andy's bike will hold it together.

Timely thread.. never mind no one has posted in almost 2 months on it.. mine too is coming loose. Either I fix it with RTV... or I fix it with getting a new bike as tempting as new bike is, I'm going with the RTV.

Now, do I have to take it all the way off? or just inject some RTV down into the separated parts, and tape it closed until its cured? Inquiring minds...

No best heat it up with a hair dryer and peel it right off, get rid of the original mastic..... if air has been allowed to the surface of the existing mastic, it will not likely stick again.. EZ enough to do it right.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40066983/

This is awesome if you want permanent bonding.

PJ4863 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 01, 2021 5:48 pm Timely thread.. never mind no one has posted in almost 2 months on it..

And I kinda forgot aboot it.

I know that I got some RTV a while back to fix this. With EOM coming up, I need to take care of this before then, eh?

Pictures, eh!! PJ needs pictures......

Heck yeah I need pictures... its what works everytime when I go into McDonald's.
Actually I think I may have this one, I'm just hoping I'm not destructive when I pull things apart. Pull it, clean off the mastic, RTV the snot out of it, tape it in place, and let the RTV set away.

Road Runner an FJRoss are spot on. Urethane based adhesives are great for this. They stay flexible forever.
Loads of vehicles are glued together with it these days.

Silicone based adhesives will eventually separate due to vibration and expansion/contraction.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Jun 17, 2021 9:50 am The 4 rivets to the hinges are 4mm or 5/32".

Do the rivets need to drilled out & re-riveted?

If you can do it the opposite thinking way, ie, glue the inner to the outer, then no need to re-do rivets.