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For the past 5,000 miles, if the bike sits for more than a few days, on the first start in the morning, it will not start unless I apply a small amount of throttle while the starter spins. Doesn't really bother me, except for the fact that this is different. Prior, turn the key on and touch the button.

Whatcha think?

You're retiring soon. Shouldn't sit for more than a few days. Problem solved.

Seriously, no idea, but that would bug me a bit. Good luck. I'm sure the smart crew will be more helpful.

+1

A few quick things.

What is your idle speed when warm?

The primary thing the ECU looks at for cold start enrichment is the coolant temperature. This can be verified via DIAG.

When you open the throttle you aren't adding fuel, you are adding air and RPM by opening the throttle plates. How's the air filter?

Is the engine cranking speed normal?

Has this been going on for more than one tank of gas? -F for reading comprehension.

For the past 5,000 miles

Edit to add:

With a cold engine go into DIAG

DIAG code #60 will display any fault codes, if more that one it will cycle through all the codes

DIAG code #5 ambient temperature sensor; should display close to ambient temperature

DIAG code #6 coolant temperature sensor; should display close to ambient temperature

Swap the ECU for an Ivan's reflash. You'll see why. Trust me. (he programs in a higher idle at start)

Is that cheating? Is it masking an issue?

ionbeam wrote: ↑Tue May 04, 2021 2:19 pm
Has this been going on for more than one tank of gas? -F for reading comprehension.

For the past 5,000 miles

Just to add..... you're in a humid environment, how long been sitting? How much ethanol in that fuel?
Regardless, add 2 ounces of isopropanol, or if you wanna pay more use Seafoam (it has IPA in it). Try that alone and see if it improves things. If not, we'll move on.......

How many miles ago did you change spark plugs?

It’s probably low in West Virginia. I suggest you add some WV to your bike sooner rather than later.

How old is your battery? I've seen a weak battery show itself it some wonky ways.

Thanks for the replies and the help.

Other than this quirk - the bike runs totally normal. No surges. No "check engine" light. Power is normal at all throttle positions, etc.

Stale fuel is NOT the issue. I ride my bike at least 3 times a month (more usually) and if I can't go 200 miles or so at a pop, then I usually don't go.

The plugs have about 20K miles on them. Fuel mileage is perfectly normal. That's an idea.

The battery is original, so over 6 years old. It seems to crank normally, and the spin seems just as fast as always. Voltmeter on the radar detector shows normal voltage - although I know that isn't always the tell tale.

Gots to get into the book and see how to check the DIAG menu - thanks Alan for the suggestion - comparing ambient temp to coolant temp when starting cold.

Idle speed is 1100-1200 (normal and unchanged since new).

Air filter has been replaced, but I suppose I should check to see if a critter made a nest in there (highly unlikely).

I won't be getting Ivan's flash. No disrespect to Ivan - this cheap bastage is not going there, and buying premium fuel thereafter.

Hppants wrote: ↑Wed May 05, 2021 1:11 pm ...Gots to get into the book and see how to check the DIAG menu...

If someone has an ES, the SCU (Suspension Control Unit) diagnostic screen will come on first, so you have to toggle to the DIAG screen.

I changed out my battery on my 2014 last year. It was still working like day 1 but I was afraid to get stranded. I still charge it on the counter once in a while over Winter/Spring when I charge the rest of my dormant batteries (waverunners, lawn mower). That 7 year old battery still starts flashing green after about 30 seconds. I should have left it in the bike as I also resemble the "frugal" comment.

Deagle10 wrote: ↑Wed May 05, 2021 3:56 pm I changed out my battery on my 2014 last year. It was still working like day 1 but I was afraid to get stranded. I still charge it on the counter once in a while over Winter/Spring when I charge the rest of my dormant batteries (waverunners, lawn mower). That 7 year old battery still starts flashing green after about 30 seconds. I should have left it in the bike as I also resemble the "frugal" comment.

I am still running the OEM battery in my 2011...
I have found that reserve capacity is down although voltage is OK and it does not tend to self-discharge quickly so it probably won't leave me stranded unless I leave the ignition on.
I have, however, found that if the charge is down a bit for one reason or another, it may not start as readily - engine seems to turn over well enough but doesn't catch instantly. Sometimes needs a bit of throttle.

Get your battery load tested... (pretty sure mine would fail at this point but hope to get one more season out of it.)

Next time you have a layoff when you might expect starting difficulties, try swapping out the battery or just hook up some booster cables from another good battery. If it doesn't start as it should, then you may have other issues. Hate to suggest it but have you done a compression check?

20,000 miles on the plugs? If conventional, it may be time for a change. Valve check due?

Hppants wrote: ↑Wed May 05, 2021 1:11 pm The battery is original, so over 6 years old. It seems to crank normally, and the spin seems just as fast as always. Voltmeter on the radar detector shows normal voltage - although I know that isn't always the tell tale.

The first thing I would do is replace that battery. It *might* be that simple.

Well, yesterday (after a 1 week layoff), it started totally normally.

20K since the last valve check as well.

I dunno.... maybe ride more, stress less.....