ABS Block Forensics '06-'07
Posted: Sun Apr 11, 2021 4:01 pm
Reviving my attempt to see how to dissassemble since it's been 3 years since I looked at it... just confirming my conclusion then that it wasn't worth it.... Note also, this applies only to '06-'07 as Gen1, 2008-'12, and Gen3/4 are different and had improvements along the way.
First of all, the block diagram that shows the internal fluid circuitry and valving from the FSM, which explains even more. Note, when ABS not activated, fluid path is in bypass of all that to enable "regular brakes".
Fluid ports.... short roll pins I cannot recall what they were for........ would need a pic of one on the bike.
Flip it over and this is the opposite side, three solenoids on the right, 2 pairs of something on the left, held in with retaining wires. More on that later.
On both ends of the block are a large end cap (8mm hex) and two smaller ones (2.5mm hex). You could guess that the two smaller ones have something to do with retaining the solenoids in place.....
Removal of the large end cap, revealing a head of something inside. Nothing popped out at me, nor could I tap on the block to make it move easily. My guess is these cylindrical objects have o-rings, thus won't slide easily.
Removal of the smaller end caps revealed a long pin that seemed to go half way into the block, perhaps indicating these hold the solenoids in. There are no other indications of how the solenoids are fastened. I managed to tap on the end of the block and only one of the pins would come out. Yes, I tried all four.
Removed motor with two screws, which revealed a needle bearing for the end of the motor shaft to run in. The motor shaft is smooth and is machined to be an eccentric, so obviously moving an internal component perhaps in some oscillating fashion.
As for the 2 pairs of something retained by wire clips... attempts to remove a clip failed, need a really sharp object AND to move the component IN to allow the clip room to come out. Tapped on the component, it moved, did not spring back. Pried wire clip and about 1/8" broke off the end of it, clip would not come out........ As for the two black components, no way to get at the clips unless you were able to drive those things in 1/2". We're not going there, but I suspect the part the motor drives would have to be in the furthest opposite position......
Here is the impossible, on the other face are holes with permanently driven in pins.... don't ask me how you'd get those out or what they are for......
Machined recesses, pins have round heads.........
So, my suggestion is to apply some air pressure to the ports to identify matching ports, then pour in some isopropanol, let sit a bit and blow it through. That will let you know the regular brakes portion is clear.....
You will not necessarily be able to open up (activate) the ABS passages on the bench, you would have to temporarily connect the wiring to the bike and run the ABS diagnostic test...... that could be fun if you think about trying to blow alcohol or fluid through at the same time.....
In any event, I'm sure I could destroy this thing enough to tell something more, but...... project abandoned.
First of all, the block diagram that shows the internal fluid circuitry and valving from the FSM, which explains even more. Note, when ABS not activated, fluid path is in bypass of all that to enable "regular brakes".
Fluid ports.... short roll pins I cannot recall what they were for........ would need a pic of one on the bike.
Flip it over and this is the opposite side, three solenoids on the right, 2 pairs of something on the left, held in with retaining wires. More on that later.
On both ends of the block are a large end cap (8mm hex) and two smaller ones (2.5mm hex). You could guess that the two smaller ones have something to do with retaining the solenoids in place.....
Removal of the large end cap, revealing a head of something inside. Nothing popped out at me, nor could I tap on the block to make it move easily. My guess is these cylindrical objects have o-rings, thus won't slide easily.
Removal of the smaller end caps revealed a long pin that seemed to go half way into the block, perhaps indicating these hold the solenoids in. There are no other indications of how the solenoids are fastened. I managed to tap on the end of the block and only one of the pins would come out. Yes, I tried all four.
Removed motor with two screws, which revealed a needle bearing for the end of the motor shaft to run in. The motor shaft is smooth and is machined to be an eccentric, so obviously moving an internal component perhaps in some oscillating fashion.
As for the 2 pairs of something retained by wire clips... attempts to remove a clip failed, need a really sharp object AND to move the component IN to allow the clip room to come out. Tapped on the component, it moved, did not spring back. Pried wire clip and about 1/8" broke off the end of it, clip would not come out........ As for the two black components, no way to get at the clips unless you were able to drive those things in 1/2". We're not going there, but I suspect the part the motor drives would have to be in the furthest opposite position......
Here is the impossible, on the other face are holes with permanently driven in pins.... don't ask me how you'd get those out or what they are for......
Machined recesses, pins have round heads.........
So, my suggestion is to apply some air pressure to the ports to identify matching ports, then pour in some isopropanol, let sit a bit and blow it through. That will let you know the regular brakes portion is clear.....
You will not necessarily be able to open up (activate) the ABS passages on the bench, you would have to temporarily connect the wiring to the bike and run the ABS diagnostic test...... that could be fun if you think about trying to blow alcohol or fluid through at the same time.....
In any event, I'm sure I could destroy this thing enough to tell something more, but...... project abandoned.
