FJRiders.com

I have done these once before under the close supervision of a fellow FJR owner. That was at least eight or nine years ago and memory is imperfect (say it isn't so)! I have a copy of a detailed procedure for stock forks. https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/ForkSeal ... cement.pdf

My current setup is different anyway. It is a Traxxion Dynamics configuration with the AK20 cartridges. When T-D does forks, they do not install the middle bushing so I shouldn't need the thin-walled metal cylinder to set that. Also don't need the socket welded onto a tube to remove the cartridge - there is a Traxxion tool (piece of square tubing) that is used for that.

IIRC, the lower bushing is installed with the fork apart and the top bushing can be done easily from above (as with the fork seal). Am I missing anything? Has anyone taken one of these setups apart? I am guessing the "slide hammer" approach will work much more easily than with the standard configuration since the middle bushing isn't there to get in the way. Comments on this?

I had leaky fork seals a couple of times in the past year but was able to use a Seal-Mate to fix them. I KNOW the fork oil is past due for a change and I am thinking about doing the seals and bushings at the same time. I am not the original owner but I think the AK20's were installed about 100,000 km ago (60,000 miles). Should I do the bushings and seals or just fork oil this time?

There is similar mileage on the Penske rear shock (maybe 50,000 miles) and it is long past due for a refresh as well. (I won't try that myself - at least not before watching someone do one.) The necessary tools (and parts) would pay for themselves by the time you did the second service but how may times would I really need to do this? Not worth it and still don't have the experience to really know if I got it right or identify worn bits that need replacement.

Im sure Ray will get you sorted on the seals.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 9:05 pm Im sure Ray will get you sorted on the seals.

Just waiting...
Got an unbelievably great deal on this bike (2011) about three years ago and haven't had do do anything with it other than change the oil and hydraulic fluid and a bit of lubrication etc. Now (past) due for a bunch of routine maintenance items. Rear shock, forks, valve check, coolant, plugs, u-joint, drive splines, relay arm, steering head, and some electrical stuff.

You can likely find a local powersports suspension shop to refresh the Penske... as long as they do multiple brands, shouldn't be a problem. Some even do OEM conversions by drilling and installing a Schraeder valve to recharge the nitrogen... if they can do that kind of stuff, they can likely refresh most aftermarkets..... but if it ain't leaking........ your choice, refresh wouldn't hurt at 50k miles. Maybe leave it a while until you find a shop...

If you've got 30k miles on the forks, do the seals and bushings, lower bushing likely worn. Drain, take cartridges out. Remove the protectors, dust seal and wire clip, then when you're ready to slide hammer, heat the upper part of the fork tube where the top bushing is, and slide away. No middle bushing means simpler, just like Gen1. Just be aware the FJR top bushing is a healthy interference fit that makes it stubborn to get out. If by some chance the lower bushing comes off the tube, you'll end up with the tube in your hand, both bushings still in there. Been there more than once...

Then you can use a seal pry tool or your favourite screwdriver to pry the seal out... then deform the upper bushing so the split bypasses itself, bend the bushing so you can pull it out. If you happened to burr or score the seat a bit, where the OD of the bushing goes, no worries, just smooth it out. Wouldn't advise scoring where the seal goes though....
Flatten the big washer if need be... your bushing installer/seal driver is a piece of 2" ABS or PVC pipe. A spare big washer helpful if you have one.

I'm assuming with the AK20's you have upgraded springs (spring rate may be stamped/etched on the end..... most aftermarket spring guys specify a reduced oil level 110-130mm to give you more air volume. Pick one, but don't go with OEM of 98-100mm, won't be enough with the larger wire of new springs.

CanTire seal puller/pry tool..... only if you need to..... hook on the inside and pry against top of fork but protect fork from damage.....
https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/oemt ... eal+puller

PS - Wheatie will be along to remind you that I know how to put the oil seal in upside down.................

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 9:25 pm PS - Wheatie will be along to remind you that I know how to put the oil seal in upside down.................

I did that too! Good thing the local dealer had an extra set in stock.
I have the instructions for oil fill from T-D.
One day, I'll send the cartridges back to T-D for a refurb.

I have someone in Nova Scotia who can do the Penske. Found another near Moncton as well.

There shouldn't be anything to refurb on the cartridges, all they have to be is clean of that fine gray aluminum slurry.. in the valving... the stuff you see at the bottom of your lower fork tube.
BTW, I meant to mention the procedure you linked is very good and well written. I have swayed myself to using a cartridge holding tool now, instead of the high speed impact tool. My new simple tool is a piece of thinwall 1" square tubing, slit at each corner for about 1/2" or so, makes 4 "tabs", cut two opposite ones off. Bend the remaining two tabs out until the "opening" is about 28mm or so..... the nut on top of the OEM cartridge is 26mm. Cheap and easy, no welding required.

From Dan Anderson at Traxxion
"I would recommend normal fork service at around 20k miles. The AK20s don’t wear out, but the shims do get fatigued and damping will get reduced over time. You can pull the cartridges and send those in, we charge $100 to service them and make them brand new. We can also customize the valving for you at that time as well, at no extra charge. So maybe every two years for you, send the AK20s in, or when you start to turn the adjusters in for the same performance."

I also have a copy of the T-D instructions for installation but they are not FJR-specific.

Traxxion dynamics square tube is 5/8” tubing x 15” (15 mm x 380 mm) square tubing. I have one on hand so I measured it.

Auburn wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 11:19 pm Traxxion dynamics square tube is 5/8” tubing x 15” (15 mm x 380 mm) square tubing. I have one on hand so I measured it.

I have one as well...
I think I will bite the bullet and do bushings and seals, even if I could put it off. Nothing more frustrating than a persistant fork oil leak.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 11:35 pm

Auburn wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 11:19 pm Traxxion dynamics square tube is 5/8” tubing x 15” (15 mm x 380 mm) square tubing. I have one on hand so I measured it.

I have one as well...
I think I will bite the bullet and do bushings and seals, even if I could put it off. Nothing more frustrating than a persistant fork oil leak.

Just use a little heat in the area of the upper bushings when pulling apart. Makes them easier to do.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 9:25 pm PS - Wheatie will be along to remind you that I know how to put the oil seal in upside down.................

Well, no need now!

Some accumulated knowledge for Gen3/4 A models based on others bad experiences lately...... 2013-15 brought on damping in right fork only, and a new cartridge design with less cost and weight. Lower valving no longer user replaceable if you break one/strip it/cross-thread. Valving is inserted into cartridge tube then crimped. The oil lock piece is unique also.

Gen4, 2016-up once again made a unique cartridge and oil lock piece, including fork top cap and chrome fork tube. Not backwards compatible with 2013-15. The bad news is cartridges for 2013-15 are unobtanium if you break one, so must buy complete fork. If you think you want to convert to 2016-up cartridges, the parts you need to buy add up to the cost of a new fork for your 2013-15.

I do not pretend to know why, but a small handful have broken the lower valve on Gen3, even two different dealers have, and bent up/scored the oil lock piece. I do not know why, but another reason to use the cartridge holding tools we have been speaking about. Another guy found a broken valve on his Gen2 the other day..... use a cartridge holding tool......

Just for Wheatie, one guy put his fork seals in upside down on his Gen1 a coupla weeks ago. Just when you thought I was special.... I ain't.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Mar 28, 2021 9:25 pm PS - Wheatie will be along to remind you that I know how to put the oil seal in upside down.................

When it comes to f@$k ups, this here is amateur hour.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 11:00 am...Just for Wheatie, one guy put his fork seals in upside down on his Gen1 a coupla weeks ago. Just when you thought I was special.... I ain't.

It happened again!!!

Whoa.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 12:29 pm

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 11:00 am...Just for Wheatie, one guy put his fork seals in upside down on his Gen1 a coupla weeks ago. Just when you thought I was special.... I ain't.

It happened again!!!

Whoa.

For the record...... guy is from south Illinois, took the forks to his local dealer to have the forks done.... immediately leaky.... I didn't touch that one.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 1:10 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 12:29 pm

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 11:00 am...Just for Wheatie, one guy put his fork seals in upside down on his Gen1 a coupla weeks ago. Just when you thought I was special.... I ain't.

It happened again!!!

Whoa.

For the record...... guy is from south Illinois, took the forks to his local dealer to have the forks done.... immediately leaky.... I didn't touch that one.

Yeah, there is significant opportunity for damage - especially in getting the forks apart. Unfortunately, you wouldn't see it until the next time (or when you had a premature failure).

I just let Ray rebuild my forks. It's much easier that way.

FJRPittsburgh wrote: ↑Mon Mar 29, 2021 3:37 pm I just let Ray rebuild my forks. It's much easier that way.

Does he do house calls?

Not expecting any major problems with it. Will probably do the steering head while I am at it. Will have to borrow some sort of torque wrench adapter.

I just dropped by my local Yamaha dealer to order the parts for the front forks. Seal kit, fork oil, lower bushings - no problem. Upper bushings are apparently back ordered with availability in LATE MAY! Good thing this is preventative maintenance rather than a repair - at least at this point. Not using the middle bushing as per Traxxion.