FJRiders.com

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 3:16 pm**

Just finished a small maintenance job on the FJR, and man, I have really had it with those fiddly OEM plastic panel rivets.

If anybody has any better options instead of the OEM rivets, I'd appreciate your input here. Even plastic rivets of a type that work better (and fit) would be an improvement.

I'm about ready to put nut plates behind the panels, everywhere the plastic rivets go now, and using self-tapping or machine screws instead of the cheap plastic rivets.

All advice is welcome here.
.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 4:27 pm**

Huh? I don't get it. They have never been an issue for me. Other than as they age you have to replace them on rare occasion.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 4:49 pm**

SkooterG wrote: ↑Fri Sep 18, 2020 4:27 pm Huh? I don't get it. They have never been an issue for me. Other than as they age you have to replace them on rare occasion.

No issues here either. I probably replace (lost, broken or worn) a couple a year. Tricky under the front in Gen II - inner black plastic fairing has two different lengths. When you insert them, try removing the straight pin (or Phillips head pin) from the rivet completely. Squeeze the "legs" together and insert. Put the pin back after it is in place. (Maybe that is what you are doing?)

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 6:57 pm**

There are other sources for those rivets in a variety of sizes and styles. I think I got mine on Amazon, but a search will probably reveal some other options including different styles. I got rid of the ones that had a screw head (never understood why those were different) and replaced some of the shorter ones with a longer version. Nothing rattled or fell off.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 7:46 pm**

Push pin in, pull rivet out. Pull pin out, put rivet in and push pin back flush. It's pretty easy to me, never had a problem except for them bouncing off into the garage black hole. I have a small box of non OEM for those instances.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 7:51 pm**

SkooterG wrote: ↑Fri Sep 18, 2020 4:27 pmHuh? I don't get it. They have never been an issue for me. Other than as they age you have to replace them on rare occasion.

SkooterG,

Okay, to be fair, I can insert them (with or without the center pin inside). Removal is a total PITA, though. You need a screwdriver, which presses inward on the center pin, which has to come outward to release the rivet. So, you do the screwdriver thing with an X-Acto blade under the screw head (not under the rivet head), and with some skill and some luck, you can get the center pin to come up, and get the rivet out. It is such a pain that any sane dude will think twice before installing that stinking dammit again.

I can find a dozen types of plastic rivets that may work, but I was hoping that Riders here had come down to a single good replacement, maybe not even a plastic item. Sure, I can send off for four different types, and hope one may work, but I hate digging plowed ground if somebody here already has a FINE answer.
.

Posted: **Fri Sep 18, 2020 8:04 pm**

I'm with ya, they kinda suck, but I've learned to just work with them and keep a few in supply.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:42 am**

Red, maybe you're doing it wrong... the push pin must be pushed in a bit, but not too far. That releases it so the expanded "legs" can flex into a normal position and you simply pull it all out. No need to try and dig out the pin at all. I use a 4 or 5mm hex key to push the pin in as it won't go too deep. I have used screwdrivers and driven the pin in too far. Best thing is look at one while it's in your hand and you'll see how it should work.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 1:08 am**

Yup, you just push the pin in and pull the rivet out. No need to pry on the pin.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 2:27 am**

My ignition key is the tool I use to push in the pin. It can’t go in too deep, and I always have it at hand when working on the bike. Never had a problem with these.

Brodie

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 10:15 am**

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:42 am Red, maybe you're doing it wrong... the push pin must be pushed in a bit, but not too far. That releases it so the expanded "legs" can flex into a normal position and you simply pull it all out. No need to try and dig out the pin at all. I use a 4 or 5mm hex key to push the pin in as it won't go too deep. I have used screwdrivers and driven the pin in too far. Best thing is look at one while it's in your hand and you'll see how it should work.

I think when Red viewed this post, he had an epiphany. JSNS

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:40 am**

LKLD wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 10:15 am
raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:42 amRed, maybe you're doing it wrong... the push pin must be pushed in a bit, but not too far. That releases it so the expanded "legs" can flex into a normal position and you simply pull it all out. No need to try and dig out the pin at all. I use a 4 or 5mm hex key to push the pin in as it won't go too deep. I have used screwdrivers and driven the pin in too far. Best thing is look at one while it's in your hand and you'll see how it should work.
I think when Red viewed this post, he had an epiphany. JSNS

LKLD,

NO epiphany here, man! The panel rivets in my 2008 have Phillips heads, and will NOT push any deeper into the rivet than they are, as installed, using ANY tool. They do install and hold well enough, but extracting one is a PITA.

I know the type of push rivet that you think I may have, but look at the replacement rivets available with Phillips heads (that is what I have, everywhere on the bike). I would use the ones you mentioned before using the (Phillips-head) OEMs, but I was hoping for a better fix here. The problem with the Phillips types will happen when you want to remove them. The rivet does not stay put, it just spins in the hole and again, you need two tools to dig one out. For some jobs, you need to do that while standing on your head. There are better answers out there, and your rivet is one option. Trouble is, those rivets will not be removable if the hole depth is limited and you can't push the pin inward far enough.
.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:48 am**

Not sure which panel rivets you are looking at. I thought all the rivets on my dash panel were the push pin type. I usually use an Allen key to push in the center. Sometimes need a flat head screwdriver to pry the rivet out, especially if it isn't aligned perfectly.
I'll have a closer look the next time to see if I have the Phillips type there. For the Phillips head ones, I usually use a screwdriver on it to turn and put a fingernail under the head to lift the center out. I prefer the push pin type.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:10 pm**

At $8.99 for 100 6mm push pins there is no reason to fight with old worn out pins.

https://www.amazon.com/100xNylon-Plasti ... 7FGTBBS319

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:19 pm**

Red wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:40 am
LKLD wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 10:15 am
raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:42 amRed, maybe you're doing it wrong... the push pin must be pushed in a bit, but not too far. That releases it so the expanded "legs" can flex into a normal position and you simply pull it all out. No need to try and dig out the pin at all. I use a 4 or 5mm hex key to push the pin in as it won't go too deep. I have used screwdrivers and driven the pin in too far. Best thing is look at one while it's in your hand and you'll see how it should work.
I think when Red viewed this post, he had an epiphany. JSNS
LKLD,

NO epiphany here, man! The panel rivets in my 2008 have Phillips heads, and will NOT push any deeper into the rivet than they are, as installed, using ANY tool. They do install and hold well enough, but extracting one is a PITA.

I know the type of push rivet that you think I may have, but look at the replacement rivets available with Phillips heads (that is what I have, everywhere on the bike). I would use the ones you mentioned before using the (Phillips-head) OEMs, but I was hoping for a better fix here. The problem with the Phillips types will happen when you want to remove them. The rivet does not stay put, it just spins in the hole and again, you need two tools to dig one out. For some jobs, you need to do that while standing on your head. There are better answers out there, and your rivet is one option. Trouble is, those rivets will not be removable if the hole depth is limited and you can't push the pin inward far enough.
.

I'm guessing they are on my FJR also, because I know exactly which rivets you are talking about. I do know I also have the push-pin type that are easier to deal with. I have been pretty lucky with my Phillip's rivets in that they usually twist out the way they are supposed to. The couple times they haven't I have used a pocket knife or exacto knife to assist the pin up when I spin it.

Are you the original owner of your bike? If you are not, I wonder if the PO substituted the Phillip's type rivets for all/some of the push pins. I want to say, the Phillip's type on my '07 are what's used to hold the side panels on. I've had good luck using my JIS driver on them.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:23 pm**

The Philips type rivets are scattered around the bike, especially the side panels. The stand-on-head rivets have to come out of the side panel from the bottom edge to check/change the air filter.

The Philips rivets are 1/4 turn parts. Sometimes I have to put a finger on the shoulder of the head to keep it from turning, sometimes I lightly flex the panel to put pressure on the rivet to keep it from turning. I have a Philips screwdriver with a shank just slightly smaller than the rivet which I will stick in the panel holes and gently wiggle it around to get the panels aligned then insert the rivet.

As Hot' says, I use a JIS screwdriver also. The pin rivets and the screw rivets may have different shank lengths to clamp different thicknesses and may not substitute. I've got a bin of both types, if I'm in the garage today I'll look.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 1:58 pm**

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:10 pmAt $8.99 for 100 6mm push pins there is no reason to fight with old worn out pins.
https://www.amazon.com/100xNylon-Plasti ... 7FGTBBS319

BigJohn,

I agree. Like I said, I would use those rivets you linked before using the Phillips OEM rivets. Shoulda made the change the first time I spotted what I had on the bike. I am not the original owner, so the PO may have changed them to the Phillips gadgets. I have been a dealership (car) mechanic, too many years ago, and your rivets will do the job. I was hoping to learn of something better (in some way) but your suggestion is good, too. Thanks.
.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 2:11 pm**

1/4 turn as Ionbeam says.... I have seen where some have replaced them with screw type (cheap aftermarket or automotive ones) that have to be screwed all the way out or be destroyed to get them out if they have a "one way" pin feature. I actually like the OEM's... only on the side panels and tank trim. One at the rear underside (need to remove saddlebag).
When you to to reinstall, ensure the "pin" portion is still outboard, put in place and push on the Phillips head to lock, done.

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 5:25 pm**

I'm with you Red. They "work" but there certainly has to be a better way. This morning, outside the Covid Inn in southern Ohio I was cursing that bastard on the right hand inner cowling I had to remove when my battery wimped out over the 40 degree temps. Thankfully the kind gentleman who operates that fine establishment gave me a jump from his minivan and I made it back home.

Now, on to the battery thread...

Posted: **Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:58 pm**

Time to upgrade!

Use these and you will never have one wear out again, and they're a bargain at $6.95 for a box of 100 – available nationwide.
As an extra added bonus, if you get the plated steel ones, all you need is a magnetic screw driver for effortless removal.

Hope this helps.

Brodie

FJRiders.com

Dumb OEM plastic panel "rivets"

Dumb OEM plastic panel "rivets"

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