FJRiders.com

Apologies if this is listed somewhere else... I swear I searched a few times!!

Has anyone got a part number or source (ebay maybe) for the proper steering nut spanner? I've got some clunky-clunky going on in the front and I suspect the head bearings need to be snugged up.

Thanks,

A.

This is better than the OEM spanner..... or, make your own from a 36mm socket and make notches with an angle grinder.... each tooth 5mm wide, don't need all 6.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Stem- ... Swq7JT-rH8

But what does that do to the torque values in the book Ray? Those are based on the pin spanner/crow-foot arrangement and not on the wrench being centered on the nut.

A.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 4:29 pm This is better than the OEM spanner..... or, make your own from a 36mm socket and make notches with an angle grinder.... each tooth 5mm wide, don't need all 6.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Steering-Stem- ... Swq7JT-rH8

Just finally purchased this myself and makes retorqeing a snap (except for the disassembly required to get there if you have a riser bridge like me). Doesn't affect the torque specs as has been previously discussed throughout the forums. One note when I was checking the fitment guide it stated it did not fit 2009 AE model but did list 2009 A model. I assumed they were the same so I went ahead and ordered it. It fit perfectly. Made me very happy.

Correct, torque values are not affected. I should have added my recommendation is to final torque to 15-18 ft. lbs. as the Yammy spec of 13 is a bit too light. All FJR's have the same steering stem nut and related parts.

Angus_McL wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:01 pm But what does that do to the torque values in the book Ray? Those are based on the pin spanner/crow-foot arrangement and not on the wrench being centered on the nut.

A.

When you use the crow-foot arrangement correctly, the torque wrench is at 90° to the spanner. This is exactly the same as having the torque wrench centered on the nut. Look at the following webpage
https://www.mountztorque.com/calculatio ... d-spanners
The Distance "E" becomes zero when the wrench is perpendicular to the extension.

Thanks guys!!

A.

I have both, happy to loan. PM me, good excuse for a ride.


Canadian FJR

Thanks for the offer, but there's already one in the mail!

We should get together at some point before the riding season is done though!

A.

Definitely

Angus_McL wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:01 pm But what does that do to the torque values in the book Ray? Those are based on the pin spanner/crow-foot arrangement and not on the wrench being centered on the nut.

A.

It makes absolutely no difference spanner adapter or socket if you are holding the torque wrench correctly. Use a 3" or 6" socket extension on the torque wrench so that you have to use 2 hands and the spanner will always torque the same as socket no matter its angle to the wrench. The socket extension prevents you from applying a side load to the unit under test. This is basic Freshman Engineering Statics 101. And if you don't believe me it is very easy to verify when you are playing with the steering stem nut just try it every which way from Sunday. You need the socket extension anyway to clear the gas tank.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 9:14 pm

Angus_McL wrote: ↑Tue Sep 15, 2020 6:01 pm But what does that do to the torque values in the book Ray? Those are based on the pin spanner/crow-foot arrangement and not on the wrench being centered on the nut.

A.

When you use the crow-foot arrangement correctly, the torque wrench is at 90° to the spanner. This is exactly the same as having the torque wrench centered on the nut. Look at the following webpage
https://www.mountztorque.com/calculatio ... d-spanners
The Distance "E" becomes zero when the wrench is perpendicular to the extension.

That only applies if you are doing it one-handed which means the nut has a side load equal but opposite direction to the load you apply on the handle.

No good mechanic applies side loads to nuts or bolts unless there is no practical way to avoid. Side loads on the nuts and bolts is the source of the tool slipping off and rounding corners of hex heads. One should concentrate on turning the nut like a screw. Use a socket extension then you can not put a side load on the nut without the tool falling off.

The whole thing about 90° is that places the side load through the center of the spanner adapter negating its leverage. But use two hands on the torque wrench and a socket extension there will be no side load on the lever.

Have been wanting to do this at a tech day but since Ray has been seemingly been banned from the U.S. I guess I may as well order this myself. Still cheaper than taking to the dealer and HOPEFULLY less gas tank dents.

Thanks for posting the Ebay link.

Don

Part arriving Saturday. Searching for instructions on how to do this. Haven't found much.
Looks like 37 lbs, back off, then about 16 lbs?
Is the front tire supposed to be off the ground when I do this?

Front wheel in the air.

Tighten the bottom castellated nut to 37 ft/lb. Loosen, then tighten back to 13 ft/lb. Some find it better to tighten up to 16 ft/lb. Your choice, your bike, the extra ft/lb is so little that it probably won't matter.

Now, sit in front of the front wheel and put your hands on both forks then gently push back and forth (if someone is available, have them hold the bike steady). There should be no looseness or play. Now slowly move the front wheel from side to side, lock to lock. It should move smoothly with no binding.

Passing those tests, install the rubber washer. Install the top castellated nut and finger tighten, then align the slots. Install the top lock washer.

The top steering stem nut is tightened to 85 ft/lb. I put tape around the nut to help prevent tool marks. Use a 6 point socket instead of a 12 point if at all possible.

I cover my gas tank so that there are no scratches or dents when I service the steering stem. Check the area around the steering stem to be sure it is free of tools before turning the front wheel from side to side.

That was excellent.
Thank you!
Don

Most Hondas are 18 ft. lbs. and a check of handlebar effort. In the old days that also is the way it was done and steering head bearings were snug. Yammy's 13 isn't enough IMHO.
As for that big nut at 85 ft. lbs., I quit at 75. If you like, put a dab of blue loctite on it, it is not going anyhere.
I'm a rebel, I don't torque my rear axle nut to 90 either..... budiculous and no need for it. Plenty of clamp load at 75 like other bikes have (or less) and it is a locking nut after all.

The 36mm nut is 80 lbf-ft.

Remove the top fork bridge and the top castle nut. There is a rubber gasket/o-ring between two identical castle nuts with a stamped metal cage fitting over to prevent the two from turning independently.

If you do not have the fancy tool and torque wrench then tighten the bottom until just before the steering binds and is unacceptably hard to turn. Sadly this isn't something someone can tell you, its something you have to learn by trial and error. If you get it too tight the motorcycle will be hard to ride straight at 60 MPH and above. Every correction you make will be too much.

With tool and torque wrench tighten to 37-ish lbf-ft then back off to zero. Then 13 lbf-ft for factory spec. If you back off from 37 to 13 you will be at a tighter place than going up to 13 from zero. A place too tight.

On assembly the top castle nut goes finger tight plus whatever it takes to line up with the bottom's notches. Gasket/o-ring in between takes up the extra. Then the stamped cage fits over, and then top bridge.

Do not tighten the fork pinch bolts until after tightening the 36mm nut. Is not until after the 36mm is tightened the distance between top and bottom fork bridges is set. If you jump in the middle of the front end assembly instructions in FSM they tell you to position top bridge on steering stem, insert fork, tighten the top pinch bolts first then 36mm. That is true for reassembly after complete disassembly because the bottom bridge has not been tightened yet. You need the forks in the bridges, at least loose, to align the top and bottom before tightening the 36mm. When adjusting bearing preload you have not loosened the bottom so the top pinch bolts need to stay loose until the 36mm is tight.

Deagle10 wrote: ↑Thu Sep 24, 2020 2:19 pm Part arriving Saturday. Searching for instructions on how to do this. Haven't found much.
Looks like 37 lbs, back off, then about 16 lbs?
Is the front tire supposed to be off the ground when I do this?

Geeze! This place has been around since the FJR first hit the shores of the US and people still don't know about it.

fjr-tips.org

more specifically

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/maint.html

more more specifically

https://www.fjr-tips.org/maint/shb/shb.html