FJRiders.com

I have a big set of aux lights that need to be re-powered. I broke the prototype unit that Tim made for me after trying to fiddle with the wires because I was getting some flickering.

I had a random thought, dangerous, I know.

I heard some of you smart guys talking about pulse modules and other stuff. So the question is could one use a heated gear controller. They are ready made and very durable.

What say you smart fellas. Remember, I gotta be able to hook it up. It has to be simple.....really simple...... okay, it’s me, so it has to be idiot proof. With tech days on hold, I gotta do something before we leave for Red Lodge. That’s in about 6 weeks. Thanks

My heated gear cycles on and off at intervals measured in multiple seconds - not what you want for lighting!! Percent time on is a function of setting.

Mine use a pulse controller, but they’re LEDs. You’d want a traditional rheostat (voltage controller) for incandescent bulbs. And honestly, that wisdom is pretty close to the limits of my knowledge.

How big a set of these lights are we talking about, as far as power draw is concerned? A PWM will do it if it can handle the current (amps), so need to know what those lights need before answering a heated gear controller....
Next question, PWM's are used to dim them.... do you need to dim them? If not, use a switch, or even a switch and relay if they need that..

LEDRider

Model Number: LX40
4x Cree XM-L2 LEDs
Custom Engineered Reflectors for 10 Degree hybrid pattern
4200 Lumens
3.2 Amps @ 12.5 Volt DC (~40 watts)
5000k Color Temperature
9-32 Volts DC Input
IPX68 Waterproof
100% Aluminum Housing
Thermal Protection
Shatter proof, Scratch Resistant Ultra Clear PC lens
20″ Wire Leads
Stainless mounting brackets
3 Inch Front Measurement
Offroad Use Only

Ray, these CANNOT be ran on full bright. It becomes comical at full power. Reflection from road signs is not good. The overhead signs will blind you. I love the full power for the darkness, but like the ability to quickly dial just the right amount of lumens.

Your idea of using a digital heated gear controller should work ok for those lights.

The heated gear controllers are typically fused at 15 amps which would be close to 200 watts.

Hook them up to the controller and hook it up to a battery.

Give them the "smoke test".

Have the Spawn video the test just in case it goes wrong, it could be good entertainment at Red Lodge.

The CANBUS controller frequently used on BMWs is sold as a PWM Light Controller, some guys use one of the channels to power their heated gear using the PWM technology.

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sun May 17, 2020 10:34 pm Your idea of using a digital heated gear controller should work ok for those lights.

The heated gear controllers are typically fused at 15 amps which would be close to 200 watts.

Hook them up to the controller and hook it up to a battery.

Give them the "smoke test".

Have the Spawn video the test just in case it goes wrong, it could be good entertainment at Red Lodge.

The CANBUS controller frequently used on BMWs is sold as a PWM Light Controller, some guys use one of the channels to power their heated gear using the PWM technology.

The thing to keep in mind is not all controllers use the same frequency. Heated gear doesn't need a fast update rate because you wouldn't notice. But you would certainly notice flickering in the LEDs. PWM for LEDs may work on heated gear just fine, but not necessarily the other way around. It shouldn't hurt anything, but it may not be the desired effect.

If it is just a matter of repairing, reinforcing, and making a more permanent mount for the controller, that's easy.

Why don't you try this....Is this not what you are after?

https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=IQ-275

huron52 wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 6:57 am Why don't you try this....Is this not what you are after?

https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=IQ-275

I've got this Skene controller hooked up with a Trailtech switch - works great. While not infinitely controllable, you do get four user-programmable settings. I have them programmed for off, daytime running, country road and full blast (wired to the high-beam switch). This controller also eliminates the need for adding any relays.

Like it so much that I also put one on my AT as well. That one also got the full blast mode wired to the horn switch through the controller and a simple diode arrangement - loud sounds and bright lights to get you noticed (hopefully). FJR might get a similar upgrade shortly.

I think the Skene might be the one........
Now iff'n you'd upgrade the headlights on Halle to F2 LED's you can likely do without those honking aux. lights and just put smaller format 10 watters on for conspicuity.

frankd wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 7:35 am

huron52 wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 6:57 am Why don't you try this....Is this not what you are after?

https://ledrider.com/shop/?model_number=IQ-275

I've got this Skene controller hooked up with a Trailtech switch - works great. While not infinitely controllable, you do get four user-programmable settings. I have them programmed for off, daytime running, country road and full blast (wired to the high-beam switch). This controller also eliminates the need for adding any relays.

Like it so much that I also put one on my AT as well. That one also got the full blast mode wired to the horn switch through the controller and a simple diode arrangement - loud sounds and bright lights to get you noticed (hopefully). FJR might get a similar upgrade shortly.

This is exactly what I am thinking, but Tim knows, I am not confident in my skills to install this. NO WAY I am doing this solo. TECH DAY is what would make sense. I will drive to someone's shop and I can watch! Hold a light, get you beer, whatever. But electronics always freak me out.

DesignFlaw06 wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 12:11 am

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sun May 17, 2020 10:34 pm Your idea of using a digital heated gear controller should work ok for those lights.

The heated gear controllers are typically fused at 15 amps which would be close to 200 watts.

Hook them up to the controller and hook it up to a battery.

Give them the "smoke test".

Have the Spawn video the test just in case it goes wrong, it could be good entertainment at Red Lodge.

The CANBUS controller frequently used on BMWs is sold as a PWM Light Controller, some guys use one of the channels to power their heated gear using the PWM technology.

The thing to keep in mind is not all controllers use the same frequency. Heated gear doesn't need a fast update rate because you wouldn't notice. But you would certainly notice flickering in the LEDs. PWM for LEDs may work on heated gear just fine, but not necessarily the other way around. It shouldn't hurt anything, but it may not be the desired effect.

If it is just a matter of repairing, reinforcing, and making a more permanent mount for the controller, that's easy.

I know what I had before was good. The mounting prototype was a one off original.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 9:36 am I think the Skene might be the one........
Now iff'n you'd upgrade the headlights on Halle to F2 LED's you can likely do without those honking aux. lights and just put smaller format 10 watters on for conspicuity.

I have some upgraded LED's. The plan was to put them in the KLX because the lighting on there is not great. But mostly because I added the heated gear and wanted to reduce the load. The heat sink would not fit behind the shroud.

They are the same ones Marty put in his bike.

DesignFlaw06 wrote: ↑Mon May 18, 2020 12:11 am

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sun May 17, 2020 10:34 pm Your idea of using a digital heated gear controller should work ok for those lights.

The heated gear controllers are typically fused at 15 amps which would be close to 200 watts.

Hook them up to the controller and hook it up to a battery.

Give them the "smoke test".

Have the Spawn video the test just in case it goes wrong, it could be good entertainment at Red Lodge.

The CANBUS controller frequently used on BMWs is sold as a PWM Light Controller, some guys use one of the channels to power their heated gear using the PWM technology.

The thing to keep in mind is not all controllers use the same frequency. Heated gear doesn't need a fast update rate because you wouldn't notice. But you would certainly notice flickering in the LEDs. PWM for LEDs may work on heated gear just fine, but not necessarily the other way around. It shouldn't hurt anything, but it may not be the desired effect.

If it is just a matter of repairing, reinforcing, and making a more permanent mount for the controller, that's easy.

Exactly why I suggested a "Bench Test" to find out whether or not it will work properly with little chance for an on the bike problem.