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I bled the ABS unit on Monday (yesterday) and since then the cruise control can be turned on, but not set every time..Today while riding I experimented with lifting up on the brake pedal and pushing the front brake lever out..this seems to help, though I dont think the rear brake pedal is sticking..

Did you cycle the abs using a jumper, or did you bleed the brakes/change the fluid, or did you do both? Did you service the levers/pivots? Sounds like a sticking lever.

Agree that the rear brake pivot is a very possible cause. If you haven't had it off in a while, do it along with the hand brake and clutch. (Don't forget the brass bushing in the clutch lever). Do shift linkage while you are at it.
Check to make sure the set switch is not dirty. Seems to me someone had an issue with switches but that might have been on an aftermarket cruise on Gen II.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Tue Mar 31, 2020 7:09 pm Did you cycle the abs using a jumper, or did you bleed the brakes/change the fluid, or did you do both? Did you service the levers/pivots? Sounds like a sticking lever.

I cycled the ABS, twice, using raYzerman’s nifty wiring harness..I did not bleed the brakes or change the fluid because it was done late last summer. The brake fluid that came out was as clear as new..

I found the cruise control switches are very sensitive. It took me a while to pinpoint the problem by using DIAG mode.

First time it ended up being the spring on the rear brake. The brake light switch was not active but the contact that is used for the cruise was open. A quick cleaning of the spring allowed the contact to close.

Second time it was junk in the front brake lever switch. Again, a quick clean fixed it.


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I got one of the switches/springs on my rear lever tweaked one time during cleaning and had intermittent failure to engage crise. Failure to set, that is. Once I saw it wasn’t seated and fiddled with it, it was fine.

The reminds me, my cruise shit the bed on the Yosemite trip.

Personally, i think my bike turned princess riding on the trailer.

Good chance it's one of the handlebar switches... get dirty, the little plunger won't move freely.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:20 pm Good chance it's one of the handlebar switches... get dirty, the little plunger won't move freely.

Thanks got the tip. The bikes is still in storage. It's time to give it some attention.

When I had trouble with my '15 it was the front brake lever switch. Very intermittent, wouldn't always act up, but even after lubing lever pivot still failed. Cleaned switch plunger...didn't work, took switch apart, then it really didn't work. Replaced switch.

~G

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Mar 31, 2020 9:20 pm Good chance it's one of the handlebar switches... get dirty, the little plunger won't move freely.

I had this issue with my '13 twice.
The first time YCS replaced the left switch group because part of the switch was actually broken.
The second time a hefty squirt of contact cleaner into the switch around the rocker from the top apparently flushed out the dirt.

I cleaned the rear wheel sensor, the hole it fits into and the plate with brake cleaner..problem solved.

CollingsBob wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 7:38 pm I cleaned the rear wheel sensor, the hole it fits into and the plate with brake cleaner..problem solved.

Grease it young fella, silicone grease/dielectric, prevent that corrosion in the first place. Inside the hole in the adapter, it is raw aluminum.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Apr 13, 2020 8:00 am

CollingsBob wrote: ↑Sun Apr 12, 2020 7:38 pm I cleaned the rear wheel sensor, the hole it fits into and the plate with brake cleaner..problem solved.

Grease it young fella, silicone grease/dielectric, prevent that corrosion in the first place. Inside the hole in the adapter, it is raw aluminum.

Good idea, Unfortunately thats gonna have to wait a few days..

Also check your brake controls for clean and lube, on the levers also check the brass bushings to for wear and replace if needed. Anything that would normally cancel cc when using it normally (brakes, clutch, throttle rotated forward, etc.).

Got mine fixed today.

Followed the service manual. Diag code 61 returns a 21. Look it up.. temperature sensor.

Bull shit.

Put it in diagnostic mode. 82 for brake tests. It says 'on'. I squeeze the front brake, it still says on. Houston, we've diagnosed the issue.

f@$k with the switch, it toggles between off and on. Home it a squirt of contact cleaner. Same results. I noticed the switch itself is loose. Remove the master cylinder bracket, one screw holds the switch. Tighten it up about 3 turns. Reassemble, retest. Perfect.

Go for a test ride. Perfect. Go for an 90 minute essential testing ride in the sun.