FJRiders.com

Is there an easy fix for this, short of buying a brand new piece!?

You could try Bondic UV light plastic repair..it’s sold at Canadian Tire..

Not the first time it’s happened. IIRC there’s been successful repair(s) using ABS cement on the broken member. In the future, add a small dab of your favorite lubricant and it’ll slip apart easier.

~G

ice_station_zebra wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:40 am Is there an easy fix for this, short of buying a brand new piece!?

Like the mid 80's Honda side covers, that plastic pin breaks off all the time. I fixed my Honda side covers using little fiberglass strips, first a few vertically to hold it in position, then I layered around the base to build up strength. The final thing I still to is spritz the rubber ring it goes through with silicon spray every time I remove the tank band. Never had a pin break off again.

I highly recommend using silicon spray or equivalent on any pin/rubber grommet attachment item like the Gen II/III tank band and the Gen I side cover.

That tank band is only a slightly better design than the plastic windshield covers on the Gen III windshield. Neither one is a good idea.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 12:15 pm Like the mid 80's Honda side covers, that plastic pin breaks off all the time.

The side where the battery is specifically. I think it is the left side. They fetch a premium on eBay. When we were in Daytona, we saw a row of a dozen Goldwings, all missing the left cover. Someone swiped them all.

Yeah one of mine broke off last season, left side. Never thought of hitting it with a little bit of lube. I'll be doing that on the others and trying the suggested repair.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 12:15 pm

ice_station_zebra wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:40 am Is there an easy fix for this, short of buying a brand new piece!?

The final thing I still to is spritz the rubber ring it goes through with silicon spray every time I remove the tank band. Never had a pin break off again.

I highly recommend using silicon spray or equivalent on any pin/rubber grommet attachment item like the Gen II/III tank band and the Gen I side cover.

Thanks, excellent advice!

ice_station_zebra wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:40 amIs there an easy fix for this, short of buying a brand new piece!?
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-DRL ... 2gLt-S.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-VTn ... k8ZK-S.jpg

ice_station_zebra,

I'm not sure what I am looking at, but if I understand the pix, you need to re-attach the post that snaps into a grommet. I would start by drilling a small hole, centered where the post goes, right through the silver panel. The hole should be just large enough to insert a short thin grabber (sheet-rock) screw. The screw does not (should not) need to be as long as the post. Scrape away any paint or coatings on the parts, to bare plastic, where the epoxy will be. Then glue the post into position with a plastics epoxy (not all epoxies are the same).

When the epoxy is fully set, hold the post, not the panel, in a clamp or vicegrips. Very carefully drill through the hole, and down into the post, with a small drill bit that is smaller than the center shank of the grabber screw (minus the threads). If your drill bit goes out one side of the plastic post, just back off and try again. Then drill the same hole again, with a drill bit only slightly larger than the sheet-rock screw shank (minus the threads). At whatever depth you stop drilling, cut off a sheet-rock screw to that same length.

Get a soldering-iron hot. Begin threading a new grabber screw into the post, holding the post, not the panel. When the screw stops, don't force it. Heat the screw at the head with the soldering iron, then take of few more turns of the screw, until the screw stops again. Do not use force; this "threading-in" process is an easy-going, gentle operation. Repeat the screw heating and turning, until the screw head of your cut screw will be flush, down to the plastic panel. Remove the new screw, and replace it with your cut-down screw. You can add a washer under the head of the screw, to reinforce the assembly, which I would recommend.

If you insist on having "identical" hardware on each side of the bike, symmetrical, just cut off the head of a matching screw and epoxy it (with a washer) to the opposite side, in the same place as your repair. Hold the screw-head in place with tape, until the epoxy sets. We won't tell anybody.

I do not recommend Harbor Freight junk normally, but you can get a drill-index with dozens of drill bits between 1/4" (5mm) down to nothing, for an unbelievable low price. These drill bits look like real metal-cutting drill bits. They can drill plastics, if you are careful. This is one job that can use such tools, because you will want a wide choice of drill sizes to be able to match the grabber screw shank (not the threads).

The bottom line here is that you will then have a steel-centered post which secures your silver panel. A spritz of silicone lube will help preserve the rubber grommets, and ease the installation of the posts each time.

.

Red wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 1:56 pm

ice_station_zebra wrote: ↑Mon Mar 23, 2020 11:40 amIs there an easy fix for this, short of buying a brand new piece!?
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-DRL ... 2gLt-S.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-VTn ... k8ZK-S.jpg

ice_station_zebra,
...I would start by drilling a small hole...Then glue the post into position with a plastics epoxy (not all epoxies are the same)...hold the post, not the panel, in a clamp or vicegrips. Very carefully drill through the hole, and down into the post, with a small drill bit that is smaller than the center shank of the grabber screw (minus the threads...

That's a good idea and a good fix. Ice will have to take a look, I don't think there is enough meat on the post for this fix to work. Even using a small stiff wire like a piece of snipped off paperclip for insertion through a hole may not work. The Honda post was a tapered + shape with the nub on the end with no chance for drilling. Some did have moderate success by cleaning off all the paint on the post and side cover then using a plastic welding system.

Easy fix? Just ignore it. Cover ain’t going anywhere.

I have a cover off a 2013. Not sure if the gray will match. $25 plus shipping if you want it.

My can of spray silicone lube has saved me countless headaches... assembly and disassembly of any snappy parts made much easier.

As for the OP's situation...
Given the part and its location... Post or no post it's not going to fly off so, he could just leave it.
A simple fix might be. . Velcro.

Thanks all for the great suggestions! Right now I'm waffling on velcro or doing nothing. Of course, I would really prefer to reattach the post, but unfortunately someone who shall remain nameless has absconded with it! I may yet find it in the backyard while I'm collecting yesterday's dinner!

Permatex plastic epoxy..... once you're tried it you'll never go back.... sandable, shapeable, glues plastic parts back together, or build your own post.

As the post has disappeared this maybe a bit late. Anyway I did the same on my 09. I reattached the post using JB Weld and now I lube the grommet each time after removing the panel.