FJRiders.com

Stupid question warning:

I’ve always set my levers to the “number” on the dial that put the lever where it felt good to me.

Is there any functional concern to be worried about from setting the clutch lever distance to the number that puts it closest to the grip?

Asking for a friend....

For 7 or 8 yrs I rode with the factory clutch lever at the setting closest to the grip. Thus far I still have all the OE clutch components installed, keeping in mind I'm not much of a "clutch slipper"- the lever is 99.8% of the time all the way out or all the way in.

Used to be that you had to set it to be further away from the bar to ensure clutch was disengaged and lessen the "kerchunk" going into first gear, especially when oil isn't warmed up yet. Late Gen2 and Gen3 went back to the Gen1 clutch slave (difference in stroke). Dunno with the slipper clutch if engagement point has changed... all you can do it try it.

Ideally, you want to be able to cover the front brake on the right side and clutch on the left side with one or two fingers (whichever your preference) while still securing the handlebar grips with your remaining fingers. Do do that the levers need to be set far enough out so that when the brakes and/or clutch are engaged the levers aren't hitting against your fingers that remain on the grips.

That would be the normal fashion. Not an option right now.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Aug 16, 2019 4:30 pm That would be the normal fashion. Not an option right now.

Buck up, strap those bones together and practice that clutch squeeze, 10reps, 3 sessions every hour.

Or not.

Once the cast is on, the fingers will be all together. Right now, waiting on the swelling to go down enough to allow for a cast. I figure giving the bone a full week to heal, and waiting for the full cast will give it a fighting chance. I can operate the clutch now. Just trying to give the break a little bit of a chance. As you well know, it’s hard to wait. Until Sunday, I had not driven any of the four wheeled vehicles we own in years.