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This piece


That's supposed to fit here


Dislodged when installing valve cover. At first start attempt, it moved and wedged between cam chain and tunnel on intake side just above CCT.

Engine is locked, cam chain incredibly tight.

What to do?

Tried removing CCT but it's under stress duress. Took me 2.5 hours .10 flat at a time. Then it occurred to me that the CCT may not come out if it's fully extended? Is that true or will the CCT clear the frame if fully extended? This is a new style CCT and won't hold the 'compressed' position without the key.

Such a bad day on the lift..

I hated to leave the cam chain and cams and crank under such pressure but decided to quit until daylight. The CCT bolts are at nearly out but thought I'd ask advice here first before making things worse.

If lifting the cams, even with heavy cam chain tension is an option, what's the best loosening technique? Away from cam chain sprockets first then work towards the sprockets or?

This part is wedged on intake side, just above CCT.

Worst case scenario, cut the the cam chain?

Any ideas?

Phook Me.

Might try and remove the stator cover to get to crank bolt/nut and rotate backwards. Counter clockwise.

You might get lucky and get it to roll enough of loosen it before bolt spins.

If it's wedged between the long tensioner and the cylinder head, probably just sitting atop the CCT. Rotating the engine won't do much, and under all that tension, I don't see how to get the cams out.... I'd remove the CCT, stick a screwdriver or other sharp awl and try prying it up (yeah, lack of room). Handy to have a third hand...
With CCT out, while holding said piece from dropping any further, can remove right timing cover and pull the dowel holding the chain guide. This will allow it to move a little down, which may lessen the "wedge" effect, then you might be able to fish it out the top. Not a lot of room, but maybe can push up from the bottom with some kind of slim tool/rod.
If none of that works, drop the engine out, flip it over and shake.

That valve cover hates you.

He could just heat the offending rubber with an Amphetamine torch and melt it.
It's not Rocket Appliances ya know.

This is the kind of epic shit I usually do.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 8:57 am ...If none of that works, drop the engine out, flip it over and shake.

Now THAT'S the Billy Ray I know.

Bust wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 5:06 am Might try and remove the stator cover to get to crank bolt/nut and rotate backwards. Counter clockwise.

You might get lucky and get it to roll enough of loosen it before bolt spins.

I tried, now have a loose bolt..

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 8:57 am If it's wedged between the long tensioner and the cylinder head, probably just sitting atop the CCT. Rotating the engine won't do much, and under all that tension, I don't see how to get the cams out.... I'd remove the CCT, stick a screwdriver or other sharp awl and try prying it up (yeah, lack of room). Handy to have a third hand...
With CCT out, while holding said piece from dropping any further, can remove right timing cover and pull the dowel holding the chain guide. This will allow it to move a little down, which may lessen the "wedge" effect, then you might be able to fish it out the top. Not a lot of room, but maybe can push up from the bottom with some kind of slim tool/rod.
If none of that works, drop the engine out, flip it over and shake.

Ray, will the CCT come out even if fully extended? Will it clear the frame fully extended? Doesn't seem like any action when I try to compress, relax the CCT via screwdriver in front. BTW, it's CW to release tension, yes?

I have removed timing cover, and under tension was hoping to get that dowel out, no such luck. Too much tension.

So gotta get chain slack, one way or the other.. If shit hits the fan too hard I'll just cut that cam chain then go through the joys of lifting and timing cams again.

What I don't understand is how that piece could wedge into the intake tensioner so hard as tighten the chain *that* much.

My little battery powered endoscope is now charged so I'll have a better look later today. Gotta run to town now for biz.

Thanks Guys!

Signed, "Approaching Jason's level!" Carver

There is a device I used to call "mechanical fingers" which is great for situations like this.

It will usually snake down the recesses of any place an errant part will go and grab it.

I hear tell, it can even grab the elusive 10mm socket out of the void...

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

The piece is 'wedged' tightly, not loose. I'll have to find some way.. to loosen it. Bust might have the right idea.. melt it.

It is plastic not rubber. LIkely pressed against a rough surface or sharp corner on the rear side of the head, pushed by the long cam chain guide. I believe there is room for the CCT to come out all the way, however, CW with a small screwdriver will retract it. It may or most likely won't stay locked out. Go at the outside 8mm headed bolt with a sawed off 8mm box end, from underneath, more room to swing... once the CCT is out, perhaps put a small rod up from the bottom and tap up on the offending piece (might need to bend it a bit).......
Grabber things from the top won't likely grabbed on, rounded corners, blah blah....
Cutting the chain, well, sure... new chain is cheap and not all that hard to install......

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Aug 01, 2019 2:40 pm It is plastic not rubber. LIkely pressed against a rough surface or sharp corner on the rear side of the head, pushed by the long cam chain guide. I believe there is room for the CCT to come out all the way, however, CW with a small screwdriver will retract it. It may or most likely won't stay locked out. Go at the outside 8mm headed bolt with a sawed off 8mm box end, from underneath, more room to swing... once the CCT is out, perhaps put a small rod up from the bottom and tap up on the offending piece (might need to bend it a bit).......
Grabber things from the top won't likely grabbed on, rounded corners, blah blah....
Cutting the chain, well, sure... new chain is cheap and not all that hard to install......

I'll be home in an hour or two and get started. Endoscope first to prove location. IIRC, the intake runner topside has 'ledge' which might be catching topside of offending mia piece. Both bolts are 2 threads away from fully out, so have ~4-5 mm of clearance but cam chain still tight.

When this over, assuming I don't put a bullet into it first, I'll replace CCT bolts with Alan heads. I can access top and bottom with allen wrench. Of course had to slightly enlarge frame access port.

Thanks Ray... appreciate you.

Found the MIA valve cover cam chain rubber guide.

Any guesses?

Anyone think of around the crankshaft cam chain sprocket?

I'm glad I worked until 10:45 PM last night to relieve as much pressure on the chain as possible.

SFTRD, but pix and storyline here.. (sorry for the redirect)

https://candybuttorg.ipage.com/cba/node/761#comment-809

I'll find out tomorrow if timing is good, cam chain is OK, etc..

In the mean time, my low back is killing me. Not used to this old age crap.

Humbly,

dcarver

That thing went around at least once for it to be marked up like that and have both ends wedged in. Here's hoping all is ok.

Well, I never! So, it fell off and went down between the two cam sprockets into the abyss below. You couldn't back out the CCT because it was likely already "pushed" back with the chain so tight. Hmmm, what next..... I think I'd opt for a new cam chain, it's only $40. The damper ($14) that fell off is just pressed into the valve cover (two buttons), you should replace that but clean both surfaces well and use some RTV to glue it on.
Anyway, good job there Don.

Wow!! Thank you for sharing this and the pictures!!

Just now examined the chain in the crank gear area and find nothing visually wrong. Secured chain to top sprockets then lifted exhaust chain follower allowing slack at crank gear. Carefully examined each link visually with magnifying glass looking for link difference pin-to-pin and plate separation spacing. Then carefully 'seated' the chain to crank gear teeth feeling for engagement issues.

So far all looks good, chain wise.

CCT appears to be in good condition too. I have a new one to compare with, both feel identical in spring wind up and release smoothness.

Next step, install CCT, inspect entire length of chain and be sure timing hasn't slipped.

The deal with the CCTs you have is to have matching spring pressure as it is released and the plungers extends. The early Gen I CCT would extend half way when released in the engine and then it would need to extend farther as the cam chain got looser due to wearing parts. Between 40% extended and 60% extended the Gen I spring pressure would go from a couple of pounds at 40% extended to almost nothing at 60%. The new CCT which you have doesn't need to extend as far as the Gen I because the nose of the CCT housing is longer. The problem with the Gen I CCT was the spring getting flaccid and not keeping sufficient pressure on the long chain slipper.