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Josh made me a jumper for flushing my ABS block. New Speedbleeders OTW so I figure I'll kill 2 birds with 1 stone. I've flushed my brakes and clutch twice already, but never my ABS block. I have 3 questions:

1. I looked through the Yamaha FSM and can't find anything on this procedure. I seem to recall that from the other sandbox. At any rate, is there any reason to believe what's on this video is anything but accurate?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTk0x3q3_FM&t=337s

2. Is it OK to put the jumper on with the key in the OFF position and the battery still connected?

3. I figure I'll flush the brakes first, then flush the ABS with cleaner fluid next to the block. Then re-flush the brakes. Does this sound like a plan? Overkill? I was just thinking that when the ABS block flushes, it will draw whatever fluid is next to it and if that's clean fluid, so much the better?

Watching intently, mine needs flushed!

Here is the link to the original Ionbeam thread on the FJRforum if you have the super secret handshake. http://www.fjrforum.com/forum//index.ph ... ntry834610 I can copy to here if that is okay. The video covers in 10 minutes what takes about 1 minute to read. There is no significant difference in the procedures, and a simple jumper is fine for activating the block.
In summary:

To oversimplify ABS activation method 1 to test the system:

1. verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
2. put the bike on the center stand, in neutral
3. with the ignition key off, remove the cap and jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
4. find a friend, offspring or wife to help, with the bike on the center stand ---->
5. simultaneously hold both the front and rear brakes on
6. turn on the key
7. when the ABS warning light flashes there will be one pulse felt in the front brake lever and then two pulses at the rear brake pedal
8. your helper will try to rotate the rear wheel; it should rotate for 0.1 seconds then stop, then rotate again 0.1 seconds on the second pulse
9. turn the ignition switch off
10. remove the jumper

Rotating the wheel is optional.... just stand on right side of bike and apply foot and hand brakes, then turn ignition on. Then bleed all brakes, then repeat test. Bleed a bit more (1 pump) from front and rear brakes (at either end). This ensures fresher fluid in the ABS circuit of the pump.

Hppants wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:47 pm I looked through the Yamaha FSM and can't find anything on this procedure. I seem to recall that from the other sandbox. At any rate, is there any reason to believe what's on this video is anything but accurate?

In my FSM: Chassis section, ABS, Hydraulic unit operation test. I prefer test (method) 2.

Hppants wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:47 pm Is it OK to put the jumper on with the key in the OFF position and the battery still connected?

Following the procedure in your FSM says it's ok.

Hppants wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 6:47 pm3. I figure I'll flush the brakes first, then flush the ABS with cleaner fluid next to the block. Then re-flush the brakes.

That's what I do.

Rbentnail - thanks for this reference in the manual - it was very helpful. I was about to get confused because the method that Tom and Ray endorse is different that what was described in the youtube video in my OP. As it turns out, the youtube describes method #2 in the manual, and Tom describes method #1 in the manual. Both are acceptable.

Speed bleeders are in route. I'm ready to do this.

Ok - method two worked as instructed in the FSM and above.

I did get an ABS code 25 when performing the test. However, when I disconnected the jumper, and per FSM, turned the key back on, shifting the bike back into neutral and putting bike in neutral, there were no codes displayed.

Do I still have to clear code 25?

Incidentally, I put the bike in gear as instructed before starting the test , and did not move the wheel during the test.

Edit - I went through the process to delete the ABS codes, I figured it couldn't hurt. It did so and now all seems good.

A code not cleared just stays there as history, unless of course it is an active code that is telling you of a functional problem. You could leave it stored, but there is no date on it, so you don't know when it occurred. Clearing codes and writing that down in your maintenance log means you'll know the next one was at least after that date, if you care.
Putting the bike in gear just means it won't start, and you don't want it to start. Putting the Starter switch to the STOP position accomplishes the same thing as being in gear/sidestand down.

Gotcha.

Having the manual was re-assuring (thanks to the little birdie that provided it), but I would have been nervous and unconfident without the information in this thread. Kudos to my mechanics help out there!!