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I've got the part numbers for the speed bleeders. My question is for the "rear brakes", do I need one of that part number or two (one for the linked brake on the right front caliper)? Likewise, for the "front brakes", do I need two or three of that part number?

I have speedbleeders mounted. Four total bleeders; three up front, one in the rear. But maybe I'm all screwed up.


EDIT: Just looked at the Speedbleeders sit amd there is a note that says the rear takes two.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm

Pterodactyl wrote: ↑Sat Dec 15, 2018 12:13 pm I have speedbleeders mounted. Four total bleeders; three up front, one in the rear. But maybe I'm all screwed up.


EDIT: Just looked at the Speedbleeders sit amd there is a note that says the rear takes two.

http://www.speedbleeder.com/Motorcycle%20Sizes.htm

Three on the front, one on the rear. One of the ones on right front is the linked rear brake.

Get four SB8125L (front calipers and clutch) and one SB7100 for the rear. Do not get the 7100 "S" unless you like trying to put a bleeder hose on an almost too short nipple...

OK - now a little confused. That didn't take much.

I see Kevin's link to the S/B website that says under the Yamaha section that the rear takes two. There is only one bleeder fitting on the rear brake caliper, so one would think that note means that the other goes for the front right caliper section that is linked to the rear.

However, the S/B website also breaks down the part number designation. SB8125L, means: "Speed Bleeder, 8 MM x 1.25 thread, Long nipple. Looking at the OEM parts breakdown of the front caliper, both bleeders (all bleeders) are the same part number. They certainly appear to be the same size just looking at them. And the bleeder on the rear brake caliper certainly looks smaller than the front, but a 7 mm s/b isn't going to work in an 8 mm hole....

Ray, I think you are confirming that I can use an SB8125L for all 3 bleeders that go on the front wheel, as well as the clutch? Also, "Long nipple" seems to mean that it's easier to fit a hose on the end of it, right? Looking all around, there's plenty of room to have a longer nipple. Personally, I prefer my nipples a bit more round than long, but that's another story.

And also - which brand of bleeder is everyone using? I see that these are sold under the names: Russel Speed Bleeder, Goodrich, and the website above just indicates "Speed Bleeder". In the case of the latter, it would appear that you can only buy them direct?

Pants, yes all the bleeders are 8mm except the rear which is a 7mm. The Yammy listing for the rear having two... doesn't exist for an FJR that I could see, but it does for an FZ1. I use SpeedBleeder brand, they to me are a little better quality looking at least. Also, I have not found a better source than ordering direct.... get the silicone hose, you won't be sorry.

What Ray said, especially the silicone hose part, if you will remember we struggled with the hose on your Mity Vac when we installed my speed
bleeders and bled the brakes last year at your place.

The hose on my mityvac wouldn’t stay on for 5 seconds. Total PITA. Great thread.

The silicon hose is the best.

I have been using three s-bleeders up front, one on the rear and one on the clutch for five years. Nothing has exploded so it must be correct. I too read the s-bleeder site as saying two are needed on the rear but it cannot be so.

My experience with the clutch is that the fluid gets fouled much more quickly than the brakes. Do not overlook the clutch flush.

My rear brake was the first to get funky

I think we've straightened out the part #'s, yes? 4 of one, 1 of another. My comment is on the hose, particularly the care of it.

Mine is about 10 yrs old. If you coil it up and put it away it will harden like your arteries. Hang it up in the middle with both ends draping down into something like a baby food jar or small coffee can and it'll stay pliable forever.

I always order my speedbleeders from https://kirbysbrakebleeders.ecrater.com/. He and I have figured out what works and what doesn't on several 4-wheeled vehicles.

If you change your brake fluid often, they should make diff. color brake fluid so you know when the old is all out of the system.

Found this page that I thought was informative.

https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/reso ... ake-fluid/

Echoing what some have said, don't forget the clutch bleeder.

philharmonic wrote: ↑Mon Dec 17, 2018 8:41 am If you change your brake fluid often, they should make diff. color brake fluid so you know when the old is all out of the system.

Found this page that I thought was informative.

https://www.epicbleedsolutions.com/reso ... ake-fluid/

Well, you got me all excited.... you should change your approach, an ounce of prevention and all that....
If you really want to know, they sell little pen testers to determine moisture content (don't get one)..... but, if you don't change fluid very often or follow the "2 year" recommendation, you'll easily be able to tell colour difference. You will tend to pump extra fluid through to make yourself feel good about it. After all, that old fluid in the calipers and clutch slave need a lot of flushing as new mixes with old and eventually gets purged good enough. You got the big bottle of fluid, didncha. And you spent too much time on it. Let's try some prevention instead....

My FJR guideline, just flush and bleed annually, at the beginning of riding season so you got fresh stuff to last you all year. Clutch fluid will be discoloured (I have seen it midnight black on some FJR's) as it gets a lot of engine heat for prolonged periods. No way I would leave that 2 years. For the brakes, you've heard enough about all the issues with spongy rear pedals, flushing/bleeding ABS systems or ABS module problems with rear brakes.... annual flush and ABS system activation will save you several hundreds of $$ in the end, especially if you own a pre-'08.
Now all the good meaning folks come to tech days armed with 10-12-16 oz. bottles of brake fluid....... once it's opened, not really good to store it for prolonged periods. The sythetic stuff can't really be recycled. If you can't see a colour difference, one reservoir full is quite adequate as you've been doing it annually... atta boy/girl.

So how much does it take..... yep, got the calculator out, and these numbers are generous, includes length of lines to/from ABS unit... front brake calipers and line 1.4 oz, rear brake caliper and lines 0.7 oz, clutch slave and line 0.4 oz. Let's round up some more, 1.5 + 1.0 + 0.5 = 3 oz. excluding reservoirs. Front brake/clutch reservoirs ~2 oz., rear 1.5 oz., so you need 6.5 oz, again this is generous (4 oz. more like it). Get the 8 oz bottle at the most, do not need more IF you've kept the system flushed annually, and IF you pumped or sucked out the reservoirs of old fluid before you start this job. Basically, all you need to do is pump through most of a reservoir of new fluid and have enough left over to top it up and button it up. And after you cycle the ABS, open a bleeder and give it one pump, one for the front, one for the rear (to move that bit of old fluid out of the pump). If you don't cycle the ABS, the old fluid in the ABS pump circuit doesn't get purged. Alternate theory, cycle the ABS before you start the flush/bleed, as long as you move some fluid along, all good. Do it a couple of times if you like.

PS - I will have ABS test harnesses available soon.

Any reason why I would need stainless steel speed bleeders? The regular steel ones are 1/2 price and the stock ones are regular steel.

Got my shopping cart filled, just wanted to clarify that material question.

In the old days, I had the non-stainless (zinc dichromate plated) and found if you didn't use them for two years, they tended to corrode at the ball valve. I had stainless, they went with the last bike...... this time I got non-stainless, just flush and bleed annually and all will be good! Save yer money for a tank of gas!

Hppants wrote: ↑Wed Dec 19, 2018 2:49 pm Any reason why I would need stainless steel speed bleeders? The regular steel ones are 1/2 price and the stock ones are regular steel.

Got my shopping cart filled, just wanted to clarify that material question.

Stainless are no good...gold anodized ONLY!

OK thanks to everyone for the help.

OK - first of all, why doesn't Yammie and the OEM's install speedbleeders from the factory? I mean - how much cost can that add to a bike - like $2.00? Holy cow, what an ingenious idea! I was looking at the GIF on the S/B website and it would appear that it works like a plumbers back flow preventer. The spring on the check valve ball puts pressure on the seat.

I'm sold on this like aftermarket seats. This becomes standard equipment on all of my motorcycles going forward.

Second - thanks to Ray for the advice to get the "long" nipple bleeders. I see now how it makes things much easier to attach the hose.

Third - thanks to Ray and John for the advice to get the $3.00 silicone hose from S/B - That was money very well spent.

Finally - I bled the brakes and clutch one year ago, and while the brake fluid looked decent enough all around, the clutch fluid was VERY nasty. Discolored from being heated by the engine, and a decent amount of gunk in the bottom of the reservoir. I vacuumed and cleaned that out before flushing new fluid through. Maybe going forward, I'll flush the clutch twice a year.

Agree that clutch fluid discolours and should be bled minimum once a season. More can't hurt.