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Please help me identify the typical clutch wear parts. My son's clutch is dragging and it's not the lever pump/ line which have already been bled. I know some of you have taken the discs out and oil soaked them overnight, but this job is going to need to be done quickly on a weekend and I'd rather just have the common parts on hand. I don't want to get in there and discover too late that parts need to be ordered. Thanks!

Did you check the little brass thing in the lever that depresses the piston?


Sorry for the technical jargon.

Clutches are simple yet robust.
Before pulling it out, have you:

1- Checked the bushing in the lever for wear?

2- Removed, taken apart & cleaned and reinstalled
the slave cylinder, followed by bleeding?

From your description, I would attempt to rule out
an issue with the actuation mechanisms first.

Bushing is in good shape. Solid lever pull starting at the very beginning of lever grab. As best I can tell, the hydraulic portion is working properly.

What are you expecting to do when you pull it apart? Full rebuild replacing all wearable parts? Soak? Inspection?

All of those can be done in a weekend. At the very least you will need the gasket that's not in that photo. Look on the "Crankcase Cover 1" schematic. For my bike it looks like it'd be this one, not sure what year he has.

GASKET, CRANKCASE COVER 2
Part# 5JW-15461-11-00

Just remember, it's so easy even a kid can do it. Plus their tiny fingers are better at pulling out the parts than our big meat hands.

If you intend to do a soak, here's your links.

http://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20100320/index.php

http://atrophy.lock.net/pi/20121004/

Excellent chance you don't need any parts, including that gasket provided you're careful taking it apart. If you want to do a quick and dirty clutch soak, remove only the parts in the upper part of that diagram, i.e., leave the wire retainer 8 and the last two plates in place they are likely already soaked with oil. This can all be done in about an hour, taking your time and having a cold beer in less than two. No plates are worn out, just dry. Take them out in order, inspect/wipe/clean, then coat with oil.... "soak" is for a few minutes only. You can mix up/reverse any of the plates 9 or 10 in your diagram, but not 6 or 17, to be safe, just replace everything the way you found it. Not a lot of magic to it at all. If the gasket needs "fixing" use some RTV gasket maker as a sealer, but there's no oil pressure in that area, so not much to worry about.

I will also say check the brass bushing at the lever, lube with silicone grease ( sticky, won't wash out). If worn at all, replace it. Check the brass bushing at the lever pivot as well. Make sure son has it adjusted so the clutch disengages prior to hitting the handlebar.

And don't forget to block the F hole before you start any work!

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:32 am And don't forget to block the F hole before you start any work!

Spoilsport!

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Fri Jun 29, 2018 8:32 am And don't forget to block the F hole before you start any work!

Your FJR has one of these?

Put the bike on the center stand.

Put the bike in first gear.

Pull in the clutch.

Can you spin the rear wheel by hand?

If yes, the hydraulic system is working fine.

If no, the hydraulic system or clutch lever pull distance is not good -- or -- the clutch plates are sticking. With a hydraulic system issue the plates will never release and let the wheel move. With sticking plates it is possible to break them free and move the rear wheel.

King of the troubleshooting strikes again.

Ray touched on it. Make darned sure the clutch lever is not adjusted all the way in. On the way home from DC last year, my shifting got really bad. I seriously thought something was really wrong. Turned out, someone had screwed with the adjustment on my Pazzos, and the lever was too close to the bar. Once I moved it back out a couple clicks, all was back to normal. The OEM levers do the same thing.

If that's not it, and you've ruled out the hydraulics, taking the clutch apart is EASY. The link to Mac's procedure above is what I used when I did mine, and I was amazed at how simple it was. I didn't need a new gasket, but since I already had one, I used it anyway.

Good luck!!

Just FWIW:

If you end up replacing the gasket, a spray down with PAM (cooking oil) on the new one makes subsequent removal much easier. Works for carb bowl gaskets too, on older bikes or Holleys.

Thanks for the great feedback guys. I had forgotten about the lever adjustment cam and will have him look at it - Doh! However, I have a sinking feeling it's deeper than that based on past experiences with this bike. I'm hoping all it will take is a disc soak and new gasket.