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I have what seems to be excessive travel of the rear brake lever on my '17 ES before the brakes start to apply. The bike is essentially new, I bought it with 3000km on it, it now has 11058km's....so I don't think it was improperly bled before I acquired it.

Should I start with bleeding the rear brake?

I definitely would. There are plenty of posts on the FJR forums for the procedure. It involves the front caliper but it's not difficult at all.

Have you always noticed this....or has something dramatically changed...or have you become more "one" with your bike and have started to notice these things?

If you have just started to notice this and something dramatic has NOT happened recently wrt to brakes. I'd bleed the linked piston on the front, then bleed the rear. Clamp the lever overnight if you have to to force any bubbles in the system to the reservoir.

If it's something dramatic...you should be seeing brake fluid on the floor.

CollingsBob wrote: ↑Wed Jun 27, 2018 10:54 pmI have what seems to be excessive travel of the rear brake lever on my '17 ES before the brakes start to apply. The bike is essentially new, I bought it with 3000km on it, it now has 11058km's....so I don't think it was improperly bled before I acquired it. Should I start with bleeding the rear brake?

Bob,

On my 2008, there is a linked caliper on the front wheel, and the bleeding process in the book was to start there. Can't say if it's all the same, for a 2017ES.

Even so, that entire process did not do the job all that well, when finished. I did this instead, for each bleeder:

https://www.fjriders.com/forums/viewtop ... 512#p67369
.

My 14 ES was a right swine to get bled. Start with the front as stated. Flush plenty of fluid. I suspect bubbles like to sit somewhere around the steering head because it is the high point.

Anyway, once you're done with the front caliper, be sure to do an ABS functional test to dislodge any hidden bubbles and seat them firmly in the front brake line...again. Bleed the front again.

Another functional test just to be sure. (Probably do everything up to here a half dozen times)

Then bleed the rear as normal and another functional test to clear any remaining bubbles in the ABS.

I had to do this dance over the extent of a weekend and Monday after work. Finally, when the fates were looking elsewhere, the pedal firmed.

I think the best way to do this would be with a pressure pot hooked on the master cylinder and just push brake fluid until no bubbles come out. It would be much easier than a mighty vac or traditional bleeding.

I embellish a bit, but it was seriously a pain.

BTW:

Good advice here. After bleeding the brakes. Clamp the lever and the pedal to open the valve/port in the master cylinders. Tap the lines along their length a few times to dislodge any tiny bubbles including the master cylinders. Leave the clamps on over night. Tap the lines a couple of times to be thorough. In the morning unclamp and then pump the lever/pedal a few times. This technique has worked for me for decades.