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need some ideas, please.

the fjr does a "fast click" while trying to start. no fire/no start

• battery fully charged
  gauges self test
  display self tests
  bike in neutral
  kickstand down
  fjr started / ridden 3 weeks ago

Check positive and negative from battery to starter

wpbfjr wrote: ↑Thu May 24, 2018 5:46 pm need some ideas, please.

the fjr does a "fast click" while trying to start. no fire/no start

• battery fully charged
  gauges self test
  display self tests
  bike in neutral
  kickstand down
  fjr started / ridden 3 weeks ago

This is a WELL KNOWN symptom discussed many, MANY times before....

Just kidding...I believe this has occurred on my Gen1 when my battery was low from sitting too long. Charge up the battery and put the throttle to WFO (wide f@$king open) prior to pressing the starter button. Hold WFO until started.

Check your Battery Cable Connections - the "Fast Click" is often indicative of a loose cable. There is sufficient connection to charge the battery, run the gauges and lights but when the starting load is applied the resistance of the connection is too high so the starting relay chatters - the "fast click" you are hearing.

Put a voltmeter across the battery when you try to start the bike and ensure your battery voltage is greater than 9.6 volts while cranking.

Edit: I see bigjohnsd posted while I was typing and he is adroit at saying things in a succinct manor.

Ok, I'm stupid and don't know what a fast click is.

Starter spins faster than normal, the engine crank shaft spins but the engine does not start: Per Wheaties, throttle wide open, crank in 5-8 second bursts and it will eventually start. The bursts help keep the starter motor from over heating. Hot starter motors have to work harder than a cold motor.

Starter does not spin the engine, clock resets, you hear click,click, click real fast. Low voltage. If the battery voltage is 8.5 volts or more during cranking you have a wiring problem. If the battery voltage drops below 7 volts you have a battery or starter problem.

Nerd warning, brain damage may result from the following:

The starter solenoid has a 'drop-out' voltage point, that is where the voltage to the solenoid's coil is so low that the coil can no longer remain energized and pull in the pole piece. Here is how it plays out:

• you push the starter button

• 12 volts goes to the coil of the starter solenoid

• the coil is energized and it pulls in the pole piece (with electrical contacts) supplying 12 volts to the starter; you hear CLICK

• something causes the voltage to drop below the drop-out voltage, the coil releases, the pole piece opens; you hear CLICK

• the voltage now jumps back up, the coil is re-energized, the pole piece pulls in; you hear CLICK

• something causes the voltage to drop below the drop-out voltage, the coil releases, the pole piece opens; you hear CLICK

• this will repeat very fast, as long as the starter button is pressed

* If the battery voltage remains above 8.5 volts then something is wrong with the wiring causing excess voltage drop to the solenoid

* If the battery voltage drops below 7.0 volts either the battery is under charged, is bad or the starter motor is drawing excess current causing the voltage to drop

the fast click sounds the same as a low battery that can't turn the beast over...
i did have the battery tender on for +/-36 hrs. the indicator was solid green.
i have a battery tender lead direct to the terminals. using the leads with the clip ends, i attached to my p/u truck battery. still no start.
i am guessing i can get a voltage read from the tender lead?
i will take the plastic off and do the testing.
ordered a new battery because i have ocd.

will see what voltages read and advise soon.

t/y

wpbfjr wrote: ↑Thu May 24, 2018 10:42 pm the fast click sounds the same as a low battery that can't turn the beast over...
i did have the battery tender on for +/-36 hrs. the indicator was solid green.
i have a battery tender lead direct to the terminals. using the leads with the clip ends, i attached to my p/u truck battery. still no start.
i am guessing i can get a voltage read from the tender lead?
i will take the plastic off and do the testing.
ordered a new battery because i have ocd.

will see what voltages read and advise soon.

t/y

If you are ocd, did you already check the connections?

As already said, you have a connection problem or a bad starter solenoid. Check all that before you go spending money. Remove those battery terminals and clean them even if they look clean. Might want to check the ground cable to the engine too. IF your connections are good and a booster battery didn't start it, pointing to the solenoid.

Check connections, battery, solenoid, starter, fly wheel, in order.

wpbfjr wrote: ↑Thu May 24, 2018 10:42 pm the fast click sounds the same as a low battery that can't turn the beast over...
...
i have a battery tender lead direct to the terminals. using the leads with the clip ends, i attached to my p/u truck battery. still no start.
i am guessing i can get a voltage read from the tender lead?
...

The gauge of the battery tender clip leads is fine for charging but way, way under size to flow starting current from a car/truck
.....in this case, clipping the leads to the battery cable ends is a good thing, it bypasses the cable to battery terminal connection

You can read cranking voltage from the tender leads but --
.....If the leads are attached to the battery cable ends you don't know what is happening with the voltage on the battery posts where it is critical
.....if you have a bad connection to the battery post and read off of the cable end you will read low voltage, but the battery post may still have good voltage(!)

<important> Does the clock and trip odometer reset when you try to start the engine? </important>

i'd correct my sound diagnosis to: solenoid is making clicking noise, NOT turning motor to start w/wfo throttle.

testing:
11.6v static
10.4v ignition on
6.5v depressing starter button

terminals clean, no crud
tender leads are direct to battery terminals
no clock/trip reset on start

ordered and received new Yuasa battery. added included liquid, on trickle charge now.
battery $102, free shipping. here: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ysa- ... /fjr1300ae

When a starter relay goes bad it looks like this. A dissection.

https://candybuttorg.ipage.com/cba/node/510

wpbfjr wrote: ↑Sat May 26, 2018 4:55 pm ...solenoid is making clicking noise, NOT turning motor...

...6.5v depressing starter button...

ordered and received new Yuasa battery...

DING, DING, DING! Winner. Bad battery. The fix is prepared and ready to go. Battery voltage was dipping below the drop-out voltage of the starter solenoid causing the clicking noise.

Glad to see it was a simple problem with a known cause and a certain fix.

Very helpful thread and discussion. Good for reference.

Mebbe pin this thread??

uh, one more question...

+/- 36 hrs on 'battery tender' trickle charge, solid red indicator only
+/- 4 hrs @ 2 amp setting on car charger, then back to 'battery tender', solid red indicator only
NO warmth/heat to battery

test at +/- 13.4v
ZERO amps whether set on mili, mico, or whole amps.
yes, factory fluid in battery

battery was off floor (3 cardboard sheets). moved to sit on wood off floor.

am i just not (famously) patient? do i need to use car charger at 2 amp or increase to 40 amp setting?

Sum Ting Wong.

Something is broken. Might be the new battery, more likely it's the trickle charger. If you are measuring amps with a hand held meter and you are reading zero amps it is highly likely the meter has a blown amp scale fuse or the battery in the meter is bad (or, umm, it's connected wrong).

Modern batteries can sit on the floor, any old floor. Been this way for lotsa years.

Is the new battery a VLRA, gel, or AGM type?

If the new battery was on a 2 amp car charger for 4 hours it's ready to go. A new battery doesn't have to be put on a trickle charger but it will give the battery the best chance at a long life. Putting the battery on a 40 amp charger is just like putting it in your bike and riding away.

After the battery has been off a charger for a 1/2 hr or so, what is the resting voltage when not connected to anything? This is probably the key thing to know along with the type of battery. If you are reading 12.7 - 12.8 or higher I'd just put it in the bike and go.

Sounds like it got charged, although as Alan says, to check resting voltage it has to rest a while, not right after disconnection from charger. Red light, on a battery tender is still charging. Battery should be charged at ~10% of its capacity, so 12AH gets charged at 1.2 amps. IF you have a regular real Battery Tender, that's what it puts out. IF you got a Battery Tender Jr., it won't do it (0.75 amp) unless the battery is nearly charged, it's a maintenance charger if anything. In that case, charge it at 2 amps for 4 hrs. plus..... what Alan said.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon May 28, 2018 4:32 pm ....IF you have a regular real Battery Tender...
In that case, charge it at 2 amps for 4 hrs. plus..... what Alan said.

yes, real deal...
will see when i get home...just thought "real battery tender" should at least show blinking green if not at full charge...

thanks all!!!

ionbeam wrote: ↑Mon May 28, 2018 2:36 pm Sum Ting Wong.

Something is broken. Might be the new battery, more likely it's the trickle charger.

Cheap trickle chargers ruined two of my wife's batteries.

Now, her battery charger is me. At least once every two weeks, I get to buzz around town on her scarlet FZ-07 for an hour. It's a fun little bike!

wpbfjr wrote: ↑Mon May 28, 2018 10:45 pm

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon May 28, 2018 4:32 pm ....IF you have a regular real Battery Tender...
In that case, charge it at 2 amps for 4 hrs. plus..... what Alan said.

yes, real deal...
will see when i get home...just thought "real battery tender" should at least show blinking green if not at full charge...

thanks all!!!

status of issue??