Tech section strictly for the FJR. Everything from oil changes & suspension setup's to removing sheep hair from hard to reach places on the bike so that your wife never finds out.
I'm going to take a swing at changing the radiator coolant and want to know how much it takes. Been looking for a couple hours and haven't found a number for how much the whole system takes so I know how much to buy. (I'm guessing a gallon would be enough.)
I did find the reservoir takes .25 of a quart and that is it. I'm probably not including a specific word when I'm doing my search to find the answer.
deang wrote: ↑Thu May 10, 2018 8:37 am
...changing the radiator coolant and want to know how much it takes...I'm probably not including a specific word when I'm doing my search to find the answer.
According to the owners manual: 2.75 US qt (2.60 L).
The nice thing about downloaded PDF Owners Manuals is that they are searchable. Ctrl + F for find. Type in SPECIFICATION or COOLANT or CAPACITY etc. and you will get there PDQ.
That said... When Yamaha initially puts out owners manuals for new model years the manuals aren't searchable but they do have a spiffy index on the left side of the document. Yamaha only releases an interactive PDF on the 6th year and older models, all newer manuals have diagonal red text and are the equivalent of 'pictures' and not text.
deang wrote: ↑Thu May 10, 2018 8:37 am
...changing the radiator coolant and want to know how much it takes...I'm probably not including a specific word when I'm doing my search to find the answer.
According to the owners manual: 2.75 US qt (2.60 L).
ionbeam wrote: ↑Thu May 10, 2018 10:06 am
The nice thing about downloaded PDF Owners Manuals is that they are searchable. Ctrl + F for find. Type in SPECIFICATION or COOLANT or CAPACITY etc. and you will get there PDQ.
That said... When Yamaha initially puts out owners manuals for new model years the manuals aren't searchable but they do have a spiffy index on the left side of the document. Yamaha only releases an interactive PDF on the 6th year and older models, all newer manuals have diagonal red text and are the equivalent of 'pictures' and not text.
Unless, of course, you download the owner's manual from the Yamaha Canada site. The manuals are all available and are all PDF that have hypertext table of contents and fully searchable text. You just have to be able to translate KM, Litres and °C to miles, gallons and °F. And put up with the nonsense associated with the immobilizer!!
deang wrote: ↑Thu May 10, 2018 8:37 am
...changing the radiator coolant and want to know how much it takes...I'm probably not including a specific word when I'm doing my search to find the answer.
According to the owners manual: 2.75 US qt (2.60 L).
HotRodZilla, Steel_Gin, El Toro Joe and 1 others loved this
deang wrote: ↑Thu May 10, 2018 8:37 am
...changing the radiator coolant and want to know how much it takes...I'm probably not including a specific word when I'm doing my search to find the answer.
According to the owners manual: 2.75 US qt (2.60 L).
Which turns out, if you use the factory approved, patented, enhanced and improved Yamaha Brand coolant, costs $40/per gal. YammaJizz Diff lube doesn't even cost this much.
deang, can you wait until tech day? Also you can check corrosion inhibitor effectiveness with a voltmeter, lots of links on the neenernet.
You'll use a touch less than the spec amount, cuz you can't get it all out, maybe a cupful..
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
Re: Voltmeter check of antifreeze...
I know that this has been claimed. Scientific principles are not (in my opinion) rigorous enough for me to hang my hat on a voltmeter result. (I am a lab geek and make my living running a laboratory that does chemical analysis.) Antifreeze condition is a function of dilution (percent glycol), anti-corrosion additive concentration and presence of contaminants. Pretty sure my multimeter doesn't know all this stuff! I change coolant every two years or whenever I do a valve check (coolant has to be drained for that anyway) and call it good! Although I could, I would never bother with a chemical analysis unless I suspected on-going corrosion problems or head gasket leak - and that would be to confirm a possible mechanical issue, not to see if the coolant was still OK. Antifreeze is cheap, engines are expensive!
Note: Voltmeter is measuring in-situ REDOX (reduction-oxidation) potential of metals in the system due to electrolytic processes (galvanic corrosion) and may be a function of depleted additives. (Glycol itself doesn't wear out) Test tells you nothing about contaminants built up over time or glycol concentration changes due to water evaporation and is only an indicator of POSSIBLE additive depletion. (I apologize for the minor rant!! Internet wisdom is sometimes worth exactly what you pay for it.)
FJRoss wrote:Re: Voltmeter check of antifreeze...
I know that this has been claimed. Scientific principles are not (in my opinion) rigorous enough for me to hang my hat on a voltmeter result. (I am a lab geek and make my living running a laboratory that does chemical analysis.) Antifreeze condition is a function of dilution (percent glycol), anti-corrosion additive concentration and presence of contaminants. Pretty sure my multimeter doesn't know all this stuff! I change coolant every two years or whenever I do a valve check (coolant has to be drained for that anyway) and call it good! Although I could, I would never bother with a chemical analysis unless I suspected on-going corrosion problems or head gasket leak - and that would be to confirm a possible mechanical issue, not to see if the coolant was still OK. Antifreeze is cheap, engines are expensive!
Note: Voltmeter is measuring in-situ REDOX (reduction-oxidation) potential of metals in the system due to electrolytic processes (galvanic corrosion) and may be a function of depleted additives. (Glycol itself doesn't wear out) Test tells you nothing about contaminants built up over time or glycol concentration changes due to water evaporation and is only an indicator of POSSIBLE additive depletion. (I apologize for the minor rant!! Internet wisdom is sometimes worth exactly what you pay for it.)
I agree with that.
When I worked on diesel engines that pumped out several thousand hp, they had cooling systems that held 60+ gallons and radiators the size of a garage door. Because it would be extremely cost prohibitive to flush and fill with antifreeze ( a couple thousand bucks at least) they had just the additives in a quart bottle. Dump that in at maintenance time and all would be well. You're right, the glycol doesn't wear out.
There's just too much what the f@$k in this thread to know where to begin...
--BikerGeek
Cool beans all that info, to me I avoid "2 year" motorcycle coolants and get the high miler/long life stuff, change at a valve check and call it a day. I don't exceed 4 years usually......
Keep yer stick on the ice........... (Red Green)
Duct tape can't fix stupid, but it can sure muffle the sound.
raYzerman wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 7:49 am
Cool beans all that info, to me I avoid "2 year" motorcycle coolants and get the high miler/long life stuff, change at a valve check and call it a day. I don't exceed 4 years usually......
The two year thing usually coincides with my valve check anyway. I think I have only ever changed AF once other than at a valve check and that was when (last year) I had to repair a leaking radiator and replace a degraded plastic overflow bottle.
The long-life OAT (Organic Acid Technology) antifreeze had a bad reputation from the early days of implementation but it is generally considered as safe and suitable for our application. I think if I decided to make the change from the green or yellow stuff to the (typically) orange OAT, I would do a good distilled water flush first - even though they say the formulations are compatible.
I had a Blazer that at some point before I bought it had the red Dexron shit mixed with the green/yellow shit, the result was something that looked like Jell-O that never fully set. It too a couple of back flushes to get it right.
bungie4 wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 5:52 pm
I had a Blazer that at some point before I bought it had the red Dexron shit mixed with the green/yellow shit, the result was something that looked like Jell-O that never fully set. It tooK a couple of back flushes to get it right.
bungie4 wrote: ↑Fri May 11, 2018 5:52 pm
I had a Blazer that at some point before I bought it had the red Dexron shit mixed with the green/yellow shit, the result was something that looked like Jell-O that never fully set. It tooK a couple of back flushes to get it right.
Thanks!!
