Gen 3 Coolant Temp

[bseelbach]

Ok...In all honesty my plan was to comment on a couple posts to get my count above 5 and open the secret doors but I realize that much of the content here is pretty old. Rather than revive an old post just for the sake of posting, I'll share a legitimate concern I have...

2013 with 89K
Purchased at 5K and previous owner had engine ice in the system.
Valve Check/coolant flush done 12/15 @ 52K and again at 9/16 at 81K both times using 50/50 standard pre mix.

I might be crazy but the bike seems to be running hotter. This year I have seen numerous times where the temp gets up to the mid 220's, a handful of times to 240 and on 3-4 occasions "HI". I hit "HI" in mild stop and go traffic in Atlanta the other day with 65 degree ambient.

I understand that the area/temps/traffic conditions ply into it but it almost seems like it is more problematic recently. The moment I get stopped in traffic I instantly get a bit nervous and switch the menu to watch temp and play with throttle to make sure the coolant pump is circulating at max.

At the last valve check we observed the coolant pump working, I can hear the fan kick on, radiator is fairly clean and has a Cox guard on it. Fins look good.

Any other thoughts or is this just in my head?

[0face]

Same freakin concern I've been having on my '08. Seems to consistently run a little hotter than it used to. I've changed the thermostat and all the same as you basically. It seems to be something that is not uncommon.

And as you said it's not the standard FJR is hot thing.


Sent from my porn viewer.

[raYzerman]

You probably already know this, but I'll repeat it for those that don't. The design of the FJR cooling system will show fluctuations on a Gen3 display that are delayed/smoother than prior Gens. However if it's getting hot and the fans don't stop it from going higher or bring it down, then time to look at something...... thermostat, rad fins loose/blocked with crud or failing water pump... but we don't hear a lot about those failing, water pump would be my last choice.... so check the simple stuff first. Check the overflow bottle that it is not below LOW. If it's empty (as I have seen some) you may have sucked air into the system. You can take the rad cap off and suck out some fluid, then when running you'll see a steady stream from the bypass right at the top of the rad filler neck. If that's there, then water pump likely OK, should increase when you blip the throttle..... dunno might subside a bit when the thermostat opens. If you're not spewing fluid out the overflow bottle, then rad cap is likely OK, but you can get those pressure tested. If the coolant system is properly pressurized (rad cap OK), then no boiling should occur until about 265F (the fans shouldn't allow that to happen).

I don't remember at what temperature the rad fans come on (it's posted somewhere I can't remember), but I believe it is ECU controlled via input from the coolant temp sensor..... at least I don't see a relay in the electrical diagram.... On Gen2's fan should come on at 7 bars, maybe go up to 8 before it comes down, but it should come down. If it does, then I'd worry less.

[bseelbach]

Thanks for the input Ray.
When we did the valve check at Tech day, we verified the bypass stream so the pump should be fine. Overflow bottle is still at the high mark where we set it and I haven't seen any signs of coolant blowing out. If I recall the fans for a Gen3 come on about 220F. I can attest that on Gen 3 (my bike at least) the fans are not enough to keep the temp from climbing in stop/go traffic.

Perhaps all is fine and I am just over sensitive. I looked down once in traffic and saw 240 and then a couple times after I have hit "Hi". Blipping the throttle definitely helps to drop it a bit over just idle.

Is there any benefit in changing back to engine ice? I know engine ice is required for many track days but that is of little concern to me. I'm more interested if it has any better cooling properties.

[0face]

Is there any benefit in changing back to engine ice? I know engine ice is required for many track days but that is of little concern to me. I'm more interested if it has any better cooling properties.

Just went over my pay grade...

[Redfish]

Not sure if any of this is connected and it sure will not help you but...

Hppants was absolutely sure that his '05 was running hotter as time went on. He tried cleaning the radiator fins and he finally resolved the issue by parking a 2014 in the same spot. I don't know what he found.

My '15 has never been above 224 degrees and that was in traffic in the South Louisiana summer heat. When the fans kick on around 217 the temp drops Right Now!!! and the process starts over.

What you are describing does not sound like the "My temp gauge jumps around and I don't like it" song but instead sounds like a gradual degradation of the cooling system.

You have my attention. Do tell us what you find.

[raYzerman]

Not a fan of magic coolants unless somebody proves it to me. Your engine's temperature is controlled by the thermostat mostly, and I tend not to buy "it runs cooler now" with a magic coolant. It is likely true that a liquid that conducts heat faster will allow faster heat transfer, but I'd like to see data comparing plain water to the magic stuff.... BTW, the more antifreeze concentration the heat transfer drops..... no need at all for any higher concentration than 50-50, and in small cooling systems especially. We only have 2.3 litres in there... It is also true that increasing rpms increases flow through the rad giving it a chance to dump off some heat.... good tip if you're stuck in traffic and the fans aren't cutting it (which I was not aware on Gen3 that could happen, good to know, thanks).

[bseelbach]

After getting back from SFO, I had a chance to take a look at the bike.

Opening up the radiator cap, I couldn't see any coolant. Running the bike I witnessed coolant coming from the pump. I topped it off but it seemed to take a fair amount...probably a pint or more before I could see it. I would have thought that the system would have pulled from the overflow if it needed it but that level never changed.

After top off i did a few cycle tests and it seemed better. I went ahead and changed the coolant today and went for a quick ride. Informal garage test looks better. I can idle the bike until the fans come on and then temp drops again which is better than what I had before.

Could this be a faulty radiator cap or a bubble caught in the system? It has been about 6 weeks since tech day but Ive put on 5-7K since then. I would have expected a bubble to find its way out in that time.

[Hppants]

That would be a very large bubble IMO, but running a pint low would express your symptoms, for sure.

I was convinced that my '05 had bent and damaged radiator fins, which affected its efficiency.

[raYzerman]

That sounds like there was a big air bubble in there... coolant was not sufficient to push out into the overflow reservoir and suck back in... too much air. It does also explain some of the temperature concerns. Topping it off should have cured that and put things back to normal. Perhaps my new coolant fill procedure should include going for a good ride, let bike cool down, and remove cap to top off. Won't hurt for sure.
Sorry for the problem, the other alternative is to fire your last mechanic..... oh wait.....

[bseelbach]

I'm sure it was more likely the mechanic's assistant pouring too fast.

Topping it off in the garage the other night did the trick. Coolant change wasn't absolutely necessary but I already had the left panel off.

I sourced a 14 ECU on ebay ($80) to increase the cruise control and tore half of the bike apart looking for the location. Previous Gens showed it near the air filter...nope. One rudimentary diagram in the service manual showed what appeared to the the front left area of the nose...nope. By the time I found it sitting next to the battery, I had enough plastic off that a coolant change was merely a $12 insurance policy.

[raYzerman]

I had words with your old mechanic and it's all coming back to him now... he says you (we) didn't pour in too fast, and while we blipped the throttle a couple of times, it is more likely the thermostat wasn't open enough.... likely a big air bubble still in there, which might explain why you saw funny temperature behaviour. Best practice will be to let it warm up til the fans come on, blip again, top off, put cap on.... thermostat will be pretty much guaranteed to be open by the time the fans come on. After the next ride (or after you get home) and cooldown, it won't hurt to remove the cap to ensure full.