FJRiders.com

I have tried all kinds of headlight bulbs and they all fail in a short time.

Now,I know the FJR is fast enough to run down tachyon particles and that all those photons, being unable to escape, will plug up the filament and cause premature failure. But, there have to be better ones than others, right?

I used to use GE Nighthawks, and didn't go for those super bright bulbs. They'd last about two years. Scarce here now, and I've seen regular Sylvania's with a rated life of 160 hours. That sucks, surely there are higher life ones.

There are new Osram Plus bulbs that are supposedly lasting 2-4 years. Now they make something like Osram Ultimate. Check those out.

I buy the bulbs that glow when it's dark

Thanks Joe and Zilla. Joe, don't our bikes use H4 bulbs? The link I got was for a H6M.

Bust, mine glow all the time, except when they don't.

silverback wrote:Thanks Joe and Zilla. Joe, don't our bikes use H4 bulbs? The link I got was for a H6M.

Bust, mine glow all the time, except when they don't.

Well they must be defective then.. Any lawyers on this site willin' to start a cl;ass action suit??

Oh, and disregard whatever Joe says. Poor bastard has mental health issues.

I changed to LEDs.

That gave me more light, at a better color, and has yet to annoy an on-coming driver so I don't really care what the beam pattern looks like against a wall. In 30 000 miles I have never been flashed.

There is also the matter of saving 80W on my power-challenged Gen 1, so I have no issues with the heated gear.

I went through many "regular" bulbs when I first got my Gen 1 and then switched to HIDs. Those worked for a while but eventually had ballast/bulb issues that were a pain to trace (not to mention trying to place the ballasts and the huge array of wires). I now have LEDs from http://retro-solutions.net.

They are perfect for low and high beam applications, using a total of 76 watts. They offer greater output over stock halogen bulbs while using less power and creating less heat. They are easy to install and more stable in operation than HID for applications with frequent on/off use or operation in extreme low temperatures. The bulbs feature CREE XHP50 technology coupled with micro-groove capillary heat pipe for superior heat dissipation, and best of all do not rely on fans prone to gunking up and failure like similar bulbs...no, I'm not a spokesperson for this company. I just believe I finally found the best bulbs for my application.

If you're shopping for LED's make sure they have shields that will provide the proper beam cutoff. The older ones didn't and were just a glarefest.

raYzerman wrote:If you're shopping for LED's make sure they have shields that will provide the proper beam cutoff. The older ones didn't and were just a glarefest.

Mine don't glare.

They don't have cut-offs, but the do have 4 LEDs in a diagonal pattern. They work well.

raYzerman wrote:If you're shopping for LED's make sure they have shields that will provide the proper beam cutoff. The older ones didn't and were just a glarefest.

Examples?

I'll point you to this thread below on ST-Owners for the final product... Spiderman had an earlier thread where he cut and fiddled little tin shields... he worked with worked with the supplier and boom..... it has become contagious and many have shields now. I have the Eviteks, not perfect, but not bad. I'll try the G7's next time.... In the link Steve provided, there is a pic of one with the shields (the fan model). Someday we'll get ones that are DOT approved.......

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthr ... tter/page6

raYzerman wrote:I'll point you to this thread below on ST-Owners for the final product... Spiderman had an earlier thread where he cut and fiddled little tin shields... he worked with worked with the supplier and boom..... it has become contagious and many have shields now. I have the Eviteks, not perfect, but not bad. I'll try the G7's next time.... In the link Steve provided, there is a pic of one with the shields (the fan model). Someday we'll get ones that are DOT approved.......

http://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthr ... tter/page6

Someday the DOT will get around to approving Eurobeam patterns. Don't hold your breath.

I use the standard bulbs not the fancy extra bright one because the standard one last longer. I have an 09, with 77k and replaced mine at about 50k miles two years ago. When ya replace them do both.

fontanaman wrote:I use the standard bulbs not the fancy extra bright one because the standard one last longer. I have an 09, with 77k and replaced mine at about 50k miles two years ago. When ya replace them do both.

I'm a fan of Sylvania XtraVision bulbs. Brighter than OEM, excellent beam pattern, last about 2 yrs for me (10-11K miles/yr). Less than $30 per pair at Advance, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc.

I always replace both bulbs at the same time.

Put one of these in my Royal star venture and will put in my fudger this winter. was impressed with the light pattern. Put about 3,000 miles on t he RSV so far nearly all daytime. but a few times at night it really improved the view.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BroView-S5-HB2- ... OX&vxp=mtr
note 2 bulbs for $37! uses flex braided heat sink no fan or large rigid housing.

the RSV stock bulb



LED



The camera auto adjusts light level it doesn't do full justice to the lighting improvement. Only down side was "white" road signs are REALLY bright and glarey, need to use a low beam when a big white sign is in view.
I also had to adjust the RSV headlight down a bit to get a proper low beam cut off. PS the cut off had just enough bleed to work well. Some bulbs cutoff TOO well on low beam extremely black above the line isn't good either.

I've been using these for the past 2 years and have been very satisfied. Not as bright as HID's but way more than the standard halogen's.


https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/12 ... 00-Lumen?0