FJRiders.com

hi, i rounded out the pin on my front caliper that holds the brake pad in place. now i can't get it out. the tension spring stops me from using a vice grip to spin the pin mid-shaft to free it. I'm guessing i'll find a machine shop to help free it, and i'll need a new pin.

new pin as a yammi part is 3P6-25924-00-00 PIN, PAD, but it's spendy at $25+ online. any idea or sites that have nissin caliper parts, maybe not so spendy?


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On a Gen II if you remove the caliper you can then
split it which should give you access from the back
side.
Splitting requires a female torx socket you can get
at an auto parts store.
Be carefull not to snap off the pin from its head.

Do you still need this pin? No promises, but I could check boxes in the garage from my part out - pm me or email me if you're still hunting for it.

Wayne

Hey - take a look at this ebay auction - they list a ton of Yamaha models that use the same part - and it's only $11, and it's about 30 minutes from me.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-CALIPER- ... 3641.l6368

thank you wayne... i think my part needs the 00-00, not 51 listed on the ebay. also the fjr pin has an o ring on the distal end.

yes, if you still have them in your parts. appears to be specific to the nissin for '06 on


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wayne, long story short: if you have the right side caliper, complete, for the 06 linked brakes, I'm a buyer.

long story: went to local machine shop, no joy, went to local auto repair, no joy, went to local indie m/c shop, quasi joy. meaning the indie had the perfect and correct "easy out" tool, but the brake pin won't budge. feeling the pin is seized in place from living outside, and splitting caliper and gripping pin will just shear pin. pin is metal, caliper is aluminum, so how do i tap it after drilling?

btw, the indie shop has ducati's, triumph's, norton's, bsa's, but no hd's! my kinda place!


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Had one stuck the other day..... heat the area with a propane torch, not too hot, but hot. Then if you still have a bit of hex, use a hex socket and impact wrench...... or easyout if that's where you are now. Yep, you need a new pin, but I don't have any spares or I'd send you one.

any favorite anti seize product? liquid wrench? wd40?


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Croil or pb blaster.

Better yet: 50/50 mixture of ATF and acetone.

If the pin is steel and the caliper is aluminum, heat, as suggested above, may be your best answer. Aluminum has a higher alpha than steel, so it will expand more.

Another thought...aluminum and ferrous metals are at odds on the galvanic scale. So, corrosion may be the culprit. Maybe a bit of oxalic acid (usually sold as CLR) would help.

thank you all for your assistance!

wayne/extrememarine for looking in his parts box and pm'ing suggestions,
robert/slk50 for pm'ing and walking me thru splitting a caliper
silverback for caliper baking instructions "bake at 250, no more than 350..."

after two days of pb blaster spray / setting in, and 3-4 mins of heat gun (fialdj), and a proper reverse coil and 18" breaker bar, pin spun out.

new pin delivered thur/fri.

thank you all!


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For future reference if anyone reads this thread again, I had posted an alternative for the brake pad pins.....
forums/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=2343

Sounds like it might be a good idea to put a dab on anti-seize on the threaded portion of the pins as part of the "New Bike Checklist"




Canadian FJR

Canadian FJR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 1:36 pm Sounds like it might be a good idea to put a dab on anti-seize on the threaded portion of the pins as part of the "New Bike Checklist"
Canadian FJR

Can't hurt, but my theory is where it "seizes" is the tapered seat, maybe a little bimetal reaction going on there.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 1:48 pm

Canadian FJR wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 1:36 pmSounds like it might be a good idea to put a dab on anti-seize on the threaded portion of the pins as part of the "New Bike Checklist"
Canadian FJR

Can't hurt, but my theory is where it "seizes" is the tapered seat, maybe a little bimetal reaction going on there.

raYzerman,

Anti-seize compound is selected to be metal-bearing, using the metal that is about halfway (on the Galvanic Table) between the two metals being used. Every metal has a place on the Galvanic Table. Read the labels of various anti-seize compounds, to select the right one for your application. The right compound will work, anywhere that dissimilar metals can touch.

Galvanic Table. Click the link and scroll down.
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Defini ... series.htm

Love the chart, Red.... all I know is stainless and aluminum hate each other, brass and aluminum weld themselves together, and cad plated steel and aluminum do seem more compatible...... not sure what the pins are, but appear to be cad plated to me.

We use cadmium plated fasteners in aluminum.

There is more to it though...

A small Titanium fastener in a large piece of aluminum is much better than a small piece of aluminum in a large titanium piece.

Also, titanium has to be plated with nickel and a few other transition metals to get to cadmium without causing galvanic problems.

Oh... cadmium isn't good for space applications as it tends to make conductive whiskers in a vacuum. Just because I knew you wanted to know all that...

I hate conductive whiskers!

All great advice, which worked. I'd add one small tip. I used to rebuild machinery and we'd take the machines off the manufacturing floor and they'd come in to us in rough shape. The "Fixers" (actually what they were called at Philip Morris), would do whatever it took to keep the machines running 24/7/365. We'd strip them down to the casting and rebuild the entire machines from the ground up until they looked like brand new again. Whole process took about 3 months to do one machine. One tip I learned on getting stuck bolts out was to smack the shit of of the head with a hammer. A steel hammer. Just one pop reasonably hard. Then you'd normally be all set. I never quite understood the physics of why it worked but I do know that 90% of the time, it worked. We were a big place with a lot of people doing this for years, and that's what everyone did.