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The left hand control is all aflutter.

The turn signals work, but not correctly and flash irregular.
No headlights low or high
No horn
windscreen adjustment works, but only in the On position, but not when cranked and running.
The high beam indicator is on on the dash. It does not change when the thumb control is flicked. The high beam indicator on the dash flash with the turn signals
The fuse is not blown (assuming everything is on the 25A headlight fuse)
All fuses are good.
The handlebar control unit seems to be in good shape. No corrosion or crossed wires there.
Time to dig out the manual and start tracking the wire loom. But I would think a short would trip the fuse.

U have a Gen1 right? Not a spider issue??

Honestly, this sounds like a weak ground issue.....Don't you have a GEN2 bike? I have heard of people getting spider bit more than once, so even if you have had it fixed doesn't necessarily mean that's not the problem.

I had the spider fixed. The symptoms before were much different.

Side question.

If it is a second bite, did Yamaha cover it as well?

HotRodZilla wrote:U have a Gen1 right? Not a spider issue??

06 gen 2

A check for the grounding spider was listed on FB.
That is check to see if there is voltage off the neg terminal to the motor.

It passed that test, no voltage.

I feel for ya man, I hate electical issues. Probable cause Im clueless about them. Wish i could help.

How about the ignition switch? I don't have a wiring diagram, but I think the Gen 2 bikes have two circuits running through the switch.

Sounds like a spider bite to me.
Specifically the one behind the left front turnsignal.

If you have good electrical tracking skills this may not be as hard as it may seem. If not, I recommend finding someone who has those skills to help. Spider or no spider you can check the ground circuits in that controller back to the frame or battery ground. Check continuity and resistance. Once you determine that it is a ground problem, then you will have to track the harness to the spider or whatever they are using as the common grounding point.

Something that might be a "too easy" is to check if there is socket connector for that controller and if so check to see if it has come loose.

Just took a look at the wiring diagram. Two potential culprits IMO would be a socket marked 70 which is the connector for the left handlebar switch. Another is marked as 30 and is defined as Coupler 3 which is probably a spider. That Coupler 3 is where the the common ground is, I think. Not 100% sure, too lazy to track all the lines. Nice thing about these schematics is that it isn't obvious where these things are physically located. Good luck.

OldButNotDead wrote:If you have good electrical tracking skills this may not be as hard as it may seem. If not, I recommend finding someone who has those skills to help. Spider or no spider you can check the ground circuits in that controller back to the frame or battery ground. Check continuity and resistance. Once you determine that it is a ground problem, then you will have to track the harness to the spider or whatever they are using as the common grounding point.

Something that might be a "too easy" is to check if there is socket connector for that controller and if so check to see if it has come loose.

Just took a look at the wiring diagram. Two potential culprits IMO would be a socket marked 70 which is the connector for the left handlebar switch. Another is marked as 30 and is defined as Coupler 3 which is probably a spider. That Coupler 3 is where the the common ground is, I think. Not 100% sure, too lazy to track all the lines. Nice thing about these schematics is that it isn't obvious where these things are physically located. Good luck.

Sorry,but I disagree on checking ground with continuity or resistance (opposites of the same test). Its a faulty measurement by design of the instrument. Grounds should be checked from the suspect component to the MOST negative point in the system (read: negative battery terminal) using a volt meter. Anything above about .1 V in a 12 V system is suspect. This should be done with the system "live".

We can discuss theory etc. as to why, but after troubleshooting thousands of ground problems on about anything running DC, I can say checking voltage drop will save time and confusion.

So, to diagnose this:
1) get the electrical diagram out
2) find every malfunctioning component
3) look for their common connection. A copy of the diagram and some highlighters are very helpful in complex situations.
4) check the common component or junction THOROUGHLY. Do more than clean it and think its OK. Do proper voltage drop tests.

Its usually not easy. Ground problems are extremely confusing...until you find the problem, then it all makrs sense. However, its also not a multiplex communication bus, so you have that going for you.

One notable instance covered is the operation of the wind screen while in the on but not running condition. So, look for something denying the windscreen ground in the running condition. This may be a component that, while OFF is providing a ground, but not while in operation. Eliminating that false ground will help find the true ground issue. In the mechanic's lingo, it was called " back feeding" which is not technical, but the best term I have known to describe it. It is a bear to diagnose.

If necessary, I'd be willing to help over the phone, but understand its like trying to give someone a haircut over the phone...

silverback,
I did look at the diagram. There is a multi-fault problem going on. The components I listed have the highest potential for issues. Continuity will tell you if there is an open. Resistance can indicate you have a bad connection but not necessarily an open. "Most" negative! Hmm. The spider design makes that approach less than ideal.

If you look at the windscreen position switch, you will see it follows a different path than the other connections. By all means, look at the schematic.

Edit. I should know better.

Edit. I should know better.

Yup, someone will always take it a little different.

I agree that when measuring power circuits where fractional ohms are significant that the voltage drop method is the only way to really measure what is going on. Heck, touch the two meter leads together on the lowest scale and you will find that just the meter leads alone are usually 0.2 - 0.3 ohms. The most ideal location for the black meter lead when measuring voltage drops is right at the voltage regulator connector. Since that is really impractical the battery negative terminal is the next best available location. And please, go directly to the battery post and not the battery cable terminal.

The six pin grounding connectors (spiders) gang together different circuit paths so one ground connector can have a wide reaching impact. Unfortunately (very, very unfortunately) the grounds are not grouped by fuse circuit You can have one ground connector with wires coming from different fused circuits so you can't say that the Signaling System Fuse is only associated with spider #4. Spider #4 can have grounds for items drawing power through the Signaling System, the Hazard Lighting and Ignition fuses. This is what causes spider failures to have such a wide range of bizarre symptoms.

The spider recall doesn't address all the spiders. Spiders have failed again after recall. (Owners do some strange things and create their own problems.)

First statement last -- sounds like a spider failure to me

May well be the S6 neutral connector, under the glove box or the Front Fairing Coupler #3, same location as the S6.
The coupler #3 has a black neutral wire with the connector block.
10:1 its a crook S6
Remove the LHS inner black plastic from around the front forks.

Silverback and OBND.

I invite both of you to come down and OHM it out to prove who is right

Queensland Ken
Thank you for that diagram, I did not have that.

Looking at the diagram, the affected parts, and the path it follows, I am going to bank on S6, which is of course not covered in the recall.

So now the next question.
When i get the time to get into it, and I find a Fubar spider whether it is 6,7 or 8 How do I resolve it?

Run a 12 ga wire from the spider to the neg bat term, ground it on the motor, etc.

The last spider bite had actually melted part of the harness and they put in a new harness.

One other thing i did not mention. My accessory fuse was blown, but that could be just from use on that 3A circuit.
I honestly cant remember the last time I used that port though as It is so weak.

A lot of different forum members helped build up that diagram, far too many to mention.
I was lucky and bought one of Brodie's harnesses, he doesn't make them anymore, it was a real nice piece of wiring.

My mate had the S6 bite, so I soldered pig tails on all the copper bridging pieces and soldered then onto a 2.5mm wire straight back to the battery negative.
Once the wires or bridging pieces are burnt, you may have to cut them off and solder them all together with a pig tail.
The larger the wire you use the lower the resistance, so it's more likely to shunt the neutral current away from the small Yamaha wires.
Could also pay to use conductive carbon grease on the spiders or silicon dielectric grease, carbon is better.

Remember that there are two 5 volt transducer connector blocks, S2 & S5, treat them but don't hook them up to the 12 volt spiders. BOOM.

I just cut off S6 and soldered all the wires together.
Hasn't been an issue since.

I should add that prior to soldering the wires
I could manipulate the S6 spider and
temporarily restore power and function but it
would eventually fail again.
Soldering the wires cured that for good.

I totally agree with SLK50's solution.

As far as Silverback and I having different solutions, there isn't as that much difference between what the final outcome of both methods would show. Yes we may disagree on the technique, but in the end we are both trying to track the circuit through the LH control to ground. Each of us will get to S6 and I'm pretty sure we both believe that is where the problem lies.

Where are you located? IMO, this problem can be nailed in no time.

OldButNotDead wrote:I totally agree with SLK50's solution.

As far as Silverback and I having different solutions, there isn't as that much difference between what the final outcome of both methods would show. Yes we may disagree on the technique, but in the end we are both trying to track the circuit through the LH control to ground. Each of us will get to S6 and I'm pretty sure we both believe that is where the problem lies.

Where are you located? IMO, this problem can be nailed in no time.

I know, I was just ribbing the 2 of you ribbing each other
(Alan - Ionbeam, probably gets a kick out of these threads )
Different trails can lead to the same destination.

I am in central Alabama, just south of Birmingham. About 40 min from the Barber track if you have ever there.
If not, you should make the trip either during an AMA race or Indy car race.