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I removed the forks and shipped off to Traxxion. While I have the bike apart I was considering changing the brake pads but have less than 10k miles on them. My thoughts are better to do this while everything is apart. I also noticed that my front tire had very uneven wear which would explain why my front end wobble came back. (This occurs around 40 miles per hour). I am replacing the stock horns with PIAA horns.

I still have a Russel Day Long on my wish list as well as a new rear shock. Should have forks back in a couple of weeks and hoping we have a break in weather to test out the new adds.

I wouldn't mess with the pads at 10k. Being apart means nothing. Changing them is a 10 minute job. If they look good, leave them alone. Or rotate them for even wear.

OE pads will go for a while, depending on how kind you are to them. Rotating them in the caliber will extend their life, and I'd also take the time to scrub the calibers and pistons while you have the time.

I've got to do suspension service as well as a valve check - after deer season...

HotRodZilla wrote:I wouldn't mess with the pads at 10k. Being apart means nothing. Changing them is a 10 minute job. If they look good, leave them alone. Or rotate them for even wear.

HotRodZilla wrote:I wouldn't mess with the pads at 10k. Being apart means nothing. Changing them is a 10 minute job. If they look good, leave them alone. Or rotate them for even wear.

This. My OEM pads went nearly 60,000 miles. Had I had rotated them, they would've gone even farther.

Excuse my ignorance but exactly what do you mean rotating the brake pads? Moving what to what? I don't like to assume........ Thanks

jsaul53 wrote:Excuse my ignorance but exactly what do you mean rotating the brake pads? Moving what to what? I don't like to assume........ Thanks

Remove all front pads, carefully noting their location.
Line them up thickest to thinnest.
Re-install them, thickest where thinnest was, and so on,
until you end up with thinnest where thickest was.

If you have a thin one, move it to where a thick one was and vice versa. If you have a really thin one, replace it. Not all pads on this bike wear at the same rate. Make sure the external pad retainer pins are free of dirt/dust/corrosion, but don't grease them as it will attract dirt.

I got 50k out of mine without rotating. Good info on the rotation though, thanks FJRiders!

I received my forks back from Traxxion and am anxious to put them back on and feel the difference. The customer service and turn around time was fantastic. The proof will be in the ride.
I am deliberating between a Laam versus Russell Day long seat. I know there are many reviews for RDL and know you get what you pay for but like the ideal of saving a few bucks with the Laam.

Put the bike back together and had to take the bike for a spin with the reworked Traxxion forks and all I can say is WOW!!

I cant comment on the Laam but you will love the Russel as much as those forks! JSNS

eFnJustRide wrote:I got 50k out of mine without rotating. Good info on the rotation though, thanks FJRiders!

Do you even know where the brake is on that FJR?

It's the lever on the left foot peg. You just tap it down twice and let the clutch out.

clocklaw wrote:

eFnJustRide wrote:I got 50k out of mine without rotating. Good info on the rotation though, thanks FJRiders!

Do you even know where the brake is on that FJR?

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