FJRiders.com

LEDRider LR4 lights on Wynpro brackets.

I've wanted to add some auxiliary lights to the FJR for some time now. Since we moved back to Michigan, the frequency of late night canon ball runs to a hotel or back to the house after dark has increased. Dodging forest rats on 50 in WV, or on NC28 - none of it's very fun.

The price was right for the LR4 lights from Justin at LEDRider. Specs are here and here.

I have decided to go with a dimmer from Skene, and use a three position switch to take advantage of being able to have 3 dimmed power levels.

Mock up tonight.




I had a set of brackets that were given to me some time ago by Jeiger - these are Gaurald's I believe. This picture shows the Wynpro bracket on the left and the wing style bracket on the right.



More to follow...

Somebody needs to design a mirror mount light bracket that uses a pivotable extending arm.

EVERYTIME I look at an FJR with light brackets, mine included. I know that a simple tip over could be very expensive.

You could mount them through the plastic on either side of the center tuning fork emblem...

bungie4 wrote:Somebody needs to design a mirror mount light bracket that uses a pivotable extending arm.

EVERYTIME I look at an FJR with light brackets, mine included. I know that a simple tip over could be very expensive.

Time to dig in on this. I decided to go with the Skene Design IQ-170 dimmer - it arrived Saturday. I'm going to add the 3 way switch that will allow the lights run at three different intensity levels.

extrememarine wrote:Time to dig in on this. I decided to go with the Skene Design IQ-170 dimmer - it arrived Saturday. I'm going to add the 3 way switch that will allow the lights run at three different intensity levels.

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread now. My LR4's came in last week. I've decided to put my Hella Micro DE Xenon up for sale. I just don't think, without some major surgery, they'll fit on the '13.

I'm hunting for a three - way switch I can mount on the let handlebar now - all the sealed, pre-wired ones I've found so far are just 2 way (on/off).

You could always to "Patriot" with some 3M double sided tape for the ballasts and stick them on the side panel...

bungie4 wrote:

extrememarine wrote:Time to dig in on this. I decided to go with the Skene Design IQ-170 dimmer - it arrived Saturday. I'm going to add the 3 way switch that will allow the lights run at three different intensity levels.

I'll be keeping an eye on this thread now. My LR4's came in last week. I've decided to put my Hella Micro DE Xenon up for sale. I just don't think, without some major surgery, they'll fit on the '13.

I'll give you $100.00 for the lights...bring them down to SE Ohio in May.

extrememarine wrote:I'm hunting for a three - way switch I can mount on the let handlebar now - all the sealed, pre-wired ones I've found so far are just 2 way (on/off)...

Boating part suppliers are always a good source for sealed and high current electrical bits 'n pieces. This might be a good place for a rotary switch.

Thanks - good tip, I'll take a look.

ionbeam wrote:Boating part suppliers are always a good source for sealed and high current electrical bits 'n pieces. This might be a good place for a rotary switch.

Starting to put my install strategy together. Here's a picture of the Skene LED controller - this is the IQ-170. It's sitting on a 3"x3" post-it note. It's small, so it will be pretty easy to tuck in the fairing. I think I am going to put it on the outside of the battery, and tuck all of the wiring on that side of the bike.

I've found a couple of options for the three position switch. Now I've got to decide where to put it. It has to be on the left handle bar somewhere - for ease of access.

extrememarine wrote:Starting to put my install strategy together. Here's a picture of the Skene LED controller - this is the IQ-170. It's sitting on a 3"x3" post-it note. It's small, so it will be pretty easy to tuck in the fairing. I think I am going to put it on the outside of the battery, and tuck all of the wiring on that side of the bike.

I've found a couple of options for the three position switch. Now I've got to decide where to put it. It has to be on the left handle bar somewhere - for ease of access.

I'm pretty sure I'll be going with the Skene as well. I'm looking at having day time running lights and high beams/horn triggering full bright. A dimmer would be nice, but on the '13, theirs just no place to put it without taking your hand off the bar in a serious way. Usually when on-coming traffic comes around a corner, at night, on a twisty road, not the best time to be letting go of the bar.

Got your PM, I really haven't had time to think about it yet. After the holidays!

Only a couple of days of deer season left, so time to order parts...

I've settled on these switches from BlueSea:
On - Off
On - Off - On (to control the optional output level of the Skene controller).

These will go in the knockout where the OE heated grip controller goes, and I will relocate my Warm'n'Safe Heat-Troller controller to the left switch housing (had it there on my '04).

I plan to mount the Skene controller under the fairing on the outboard side of the battery.

I've had the lights on my Jeep for a little while; wired straight off the factory fog light switch. They are freaking bright, but do not have the down range reach that the Hella 500's driving light pattern does - but that is not an apples to apples comparison. These were great for the two trips to the woods where I was running back roads and fields. These will fill the role on the FJR very well - illuminating the shoulders as well as the road ahead in the twisty mountain stuff I like to run at night (NC-28 anyone??).

I have the mounts from Wynpro painted black now and they are ready to go on. I am planning to get the FJR winter farkle and maintenance done by February so I have time to work on the DRZ.

More to follow...

Amazon has killed my progress on this project. I finally received the switches and housings that I found. I decided to use these BlueSea Contura switches and mounting housing. These will sit side by side and with a little clearancing, sit right in the knock out panel aft of the glove box.


BlueSea mounting brackets - they snap together.


Switches snapped into the brackets.


Bracket lined up with OE panel.


The downside of this set up is having to run wiring from the battery side to these switches for the Skene controller.

Now, if this weather would just hurry up and get past so the garage is back to a tolerable temp, I'd be able to make some progress on this project.

Wayne.

It’s time for an update on this project…

I have the Skene dimmer wired in to the lights and bike. I found space for it to mount on the upper fairing to the outside of the battery. All of the wiring will tuck into that side of the fairing. It would have been less runs of wire to put it on the left side, but my Starcom1 and associated cabling is all stored on that side of the bike behind the left turn signal.

I have fitted the Bluesea waterproof switches to the OE Grip controller opening in the “A” panel. Power for those switches is being pulled from the OE heated grip circuit. This is not the main power feed for the Skene, only the switching portion – basically the trigger circuit of the relay. The on/off switch is just the trigger – the Skene controller pulls main power from the battery via a fused link.

The switch bank works as such – the outer is the main on / off switch. This gives me the option of turning off the LEDRider lights all together. It draws power from the OE heated grip circuit, which is not energized until after the bike is started. The second switch is a on/off/on switch. When connected to the Skene controller’s yellow wire, it allows each switch position to set the light brightness at a different level. The yellow wire comes in to the center, one pole connects to ground, the other to a positive 12+ source. The Skene controller uses that input to cycle to three different brightness levels. I have the brightness set at 40, 60, & 80% right now. When I key the bike’s high beams, I get 100% brightness on the LED’s – there is a high beam bypass wire on the controller for that. I may have to cut the minimum down some – I don’t want to blind oncoming traffic.

I did a quick ride around the neighborhood last night. Everything seems to be functioning as designed – which means I managed to not screw up the wiring… I did a quick video with my point & shoot camera; this first video is not very good because the camera kept focusing on the windshield edge. I’ll get another one done with it out from behind the windshield in the next couple of days. When the video starts, you’ll see OE low beams, with stock bulbs. Then high beams (blue light reflection on the inside of the windshield). I went back to low beams and turned on the LR4’s. The Skene controller initials sets the lights at 10% output fo r3 seconds as a means of preventing battery drain at startup. You will see three flashes and then they go to my 40% setting. I cycle up to 60% and 80%, and then hit the high beam, putting the LR4’s at 100%.



I will get a better video and pictures as soon as I can get out of the neighborhood on a night ride. This camera really doesn’t do the lights justice.

When can you install mine?

Bring it. Now that I've done it once, it's could be done in an afternoon.

El Toro Joe wrote:When can you install mine?

If I can get everything ordered I might take you up on that.

Still waiting on my dimmer.

I'm gonna take a good look to see if I can possibly mount my Hella HID's. The ballasts MIGHT fit in the lower fairing by the turn signals. I was planning on making some plasticene dowels, then re-installing the panels. The plasticene could then be measured. If not, they'll be for sale and I'll go with the LR4's solo.

3M dual lock tape (HD velcro) is your friend.

bungie4 wrote:Still waiting on my dimmer.

I'm gonna take a good look to see if I can possibly mount my Hella HID's. The ballasts MIGHT fit in the lower fairing by the turn signals. I was planning on making some plasticene dowels, then re-installing the panels. The plasticene could then be measured. If not, they'll be for sale and I'll go with the LR4's solo.

Joe - any time - we could get it done. We've got the tech day at Barry's after the Ramble too.

El Toro Joe wrote:If I can get everything ordered I might take you up on that.