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I decided to Change my front wheel bearings just for drill. My 2007 A model has 86,000 and change on it. I have ridden 9000 mile tours. Weeks sometimes in the rain. I ride when its 10 degrees. I ride when it's 115 degrees. I sometimes hose her off at the carwash. mostly I don't wash. I even hit a Giant Pot hole and almost crashed On the southwest tour....
About me. I build and repair Gyroscopes for a living. Have since I was 19 I am 46 now. I figure over my career I have changed around 40,000 bearings. some Highspeed applications like 22000-27000 Rpm bearings and some suspension bearings. suspending gimbals of gyros. I have analyzed a ton of failures. most have to do with contamination. some over tightening some shock damage. This is my opinion. these bearing have seals that are friction seals. they actually touch at the inside and touch at the outside. always sealed. then on top of that there are the wheel seals that seal around the shaft and bushings and the ABS plate (thingy) The wheels on this thing are basically a heavy Gyroscope, The reason Counter steer works. (Laws of gyroscope Science)
First: even with the right tools these were a bitch to get out. (I don't see any reason whatsoever to ever change these.) These will last the life of the bike and then also your life and maybe your grandkids
Because I am curious. I opened a bearing. New. and Old. Here is what I found. (for what it is worth)
This is the old bearing with 86,000 miles on it. The Grease isn't even dirty.

This is the new Bearing with zero miles on it.

This is the old one cleaned.

a bigger view

This is the inner race at about 10x magnification. I see very minor wear. no big deal.

This is the outer race at about 10x mag also.

and finally one of the balls. no pitting or anything. shiny enough to give perfect reflection of bench top.

Awesome write up....hope you got pictures of the extraction and installation for good measure. Please post.

clocklaw wrote:Awesome write up....hope you got pictures of the extraction and installation for good measure. Please post.

I did. I also apparently deleted them thinking I uploaded them to Photo bucket ... What I was thinking was who cares. NEVER TAKE THEM OUT-NO NEED

That is good news.

A few years ago I bought a set of used wheels so I could swap on new tires for a long ride while still saving the half used ones that were on the bike. The front wheel came from a different bike from the back wheel, and the front looked like it has spent time sitting in a swamp or something. I opened the bearings to take a look and found similar to what you show in your pictures, except a lot less grease. I added some fresh grease and closed them up. Since then I have put about 40k miles on that wheel with no problem.

Do you see any advantage to using waterproof grease on wheel bearings?

Geezer wrote:That is good news.

A few years ago I bought a set of used wheels so I could swap on new tires for a long ride while still saving the half used ones that were on the bike. The front wheel came from a different bike from the back wheel, and the front looked like it has spent time sitting in a swamp or something. I opened the bearings to take a look and found similar to what you show in your pictures, except a lot less grease. I added some fresh grease and closed them up. Since then I have put about 40k miles on that wheel with no problem.

Do you see any advantage to using waterproof grease on wheel bearings?

I would use the waterproof grease. It could get moisture in there. but only under pressure. this is a well sealed bearing. I cannot use these in my Gyro rotors they have to much friction from the seal on the inner race. these are Sealed pretty tight and slide on the rubber in a groove on the inner race. good design for a wheel bearing. very good.

THIS is good information to have. Thanks!!

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Nice! Great info. Thanks.


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0face wrote:Nice! Great info. Thanks.


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Good I hoped I was using this section correctly.

I heated the Wheel. I Froze the Bearings overnight and I pressed bearings in with a 10 Ton hydraulic press. They Don't just push in easy. After getting the bearing cocked a little on first attempt (at home without a press) and they seize up really quick. once you cock a bearing stop and remove and attempt again with better tools. Use the right tools the first time!

You saved many of us a ton of work. Even those of us who regularly wash our bikes don't have to worry about this chore. (insert anal retentive here) Thanks!

Cajw wrote:You saved many of us a ton of work. Even those of us who regularly wash our bikes don't have to worry about this chore. (insert anal retentive here) Thanks!

I would not worry about this. EVER. Glad I could help out.

love a cool technical breakdown... thanks!

I was also curious about the bearings, thanks for the info.

I had one size seize while on tour of Europe. horrible noises and vibrations only lessened when accelerating. Lucky not to have a lock up - and find an excellent Yamaha dealer who was able to fix the problem within 24 hours despite bearing not being held in stock.

Good to know, thanks!

Here's another data point. I changed out the front bearings on my 2006 at about 81K miles. I could feel a vibe in the bars, and I was recording some rides and could actually hear it in the audio on the recording. When I pulled the wheel I could feel one was really crunchy. I thought the other was okay, but with a closer look, it too had some crunchiness. I ride all year in all weather. Plus, this winter has turned the roads to shite, and some places there isn't any good road to find around the potholes. I don't wash the bike, much. Usually once a year.

Got a good set of bearing from CBR Bearings and following a similar process. Bearings in the freezer over night. Used a torch to gently heat up the wheel hub.
I took my time on the removal and install. I've done it before a couple times on my FJ. I was probably a bit conservative, but I didn't want to do any damage. I used a long 3/8" extension to tap the bearings out. First one was harder, as you have to deal with the space limitations due to the spacer. Second came out much more easily. Used the old bearing and a big socket and a hammer to get the new bearings in. Very careful not to cock the bearing as it went in.
Overall this went more easily than I expected.

Great info! Thanks!! I think I will go the freeze and heat route, but at my friend's place. Throw the bearings in the freezer, take out a couple of beers and shoot shit till they freeze over an hour.