FJRiders.com

Yes, vary speed, at times no harm in a spirited acceleration, forces the piston rings out against the cylinder walls to "bed in".... which in this case due to the extremely hard Nikasil coating, it's the rings that wear in. After 250 miles of that boring stuff, give it to Jwilly. No harm.

Rode mine to the dealer for a 9am appointment to have the ecu reflash recall done.

Out by 9:30 with a free t-shirt

Rear brake pads. Cleaned up the rear caliper/pins/retainer clips/piston sides etc. A couple small corrosion spots on the piston but not much - couldn't really feel it with my thumbnail. I probably should have popped the piston out and polished it but didn't want to deal with the mess. Not to mention getting all of the air out afterward. I have seen much worse...

Fresh DOT4 in the clutch, front brakes and rear brakes (along with lower right front).
Lubed levers and rear pedal. Didn't bother with the shift linkage today.

Was going to do oil and filter but it was rainy and cold - I like to take it for a spin before the oil change to get stuff warmed up. Not to mention a checkout ride after. Another rotten day tomorrow, a bit better Sunday and decent at the first of the week.

You people are no help. Duly noted.

I’ve been continuously varying rpms. Not entering the launch codes, just not going above 4500. I’ve got over 400 miles. I suppose I’ll go higher, and just not camp out at above 4500 for a bit (4500 is about 93mph, so that’s the prolonged limit I’ve been dealing with). Interested in your viewpoints. The conservative break-in doctrine and the ride-it-like-you-stole-it doctrine have been around forever.

But I’m hearing the voices-of-reason doctrine, and it sounds good to me.

I figure a hard f@$king rain is going to fall for the rest of this engine’s natural life (with me as the owner). So maybe I am a little overkill (over cautious), during break-in.

I don’t even know what I did for break-in for the 2018, and at 97,000+ miles, it only runs perfectly.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 4:17 pm Was going to do oil and filter but it was rainy and cold - I like to take it for a spin before the oil change to get stuff warmed up. Not to mention a checkout ride after. Another rotten day tomorrow, a bit better Sunday and decent at the first of the week.

I like to change mine cold. When it was warm it had plenty of time for oil to drain down to the bottom of the engine. No point in throwing that oil all over the engine again just to try to drain it out.

N4HHE wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 5:46 pm

FJRoss wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 4:17 pm Was going to do oil and filter but it was rainy and cold - I like to take it for a spin before the oil change to get stuff warmed up. Not to mention a checkout ride after. Another rotten day tomorrow, a bit better Sunday and decent at the first of the week.

I like to change mine cold. When it was warm it had plenty of time for oil to drain down to the bottom of the engine. No point in throwing that oil all over the engine again just to try to drain it out.

I figure particulate contaminants would be more likely to be in suspension instead of settled in that almost one litre sitting in the oil pan that doesn't come out when you change oil. (4.9 L total capacity, 4.0 L when you change - with filter.) Hot oil is less viscous and seems to drain faster.

When it comes right down to it, I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter one way or the other. Anything large in the way of particulates should be already trapped in your filter (or pretty much permanently sitting in the oil pan). Particulates fine enough to escape the filter are not going to settle very fast.

For what it's worth, Yamaha Owner's Manual says to warm up the engine before changing oil... They also say to change the gasket for the drain bolt every time. My current one has probably 10 or more oil changes in it so far without leaking a drop.

YMMV

That one litre is not sitting in the oil pan, it's in many places that simply can't drain down. Perhaps warmer (thinner) is a good idea. Here's a pic of the oil pan..... has to drain past the baffle and into that little channel where the drain plug is........ since you can't drain it all anyway, what's an ounce or two in the bottom of your oil pan...... should you put it on the side stand..... do what makes you happy.

Drain some hot, drain some cold. Cover your bets

rbentnail wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 7:21 pm

rbentnail wrote: ↑Fri Apr 22, 2022 2:12 pm Now I need to find whatever it is that's keeping my cruise control from setting. I'll turn it on but the amber light blinks and it won't set. I can get it to reset by cycling the ignition. I rode for a while using just the front brake, didn't happen. Then I rode for a while using just the rear brake, didn't happen.

Got some mechanic-ing done today. Pulled & lubed the brake pedal and checked the brake switch. All seems fine there. Both handlebar levers recently done so I skipped those. Pulled the front brake switch housing off and apart. The light switch works fine, the CC switch is mushy not clicky. Lo and behold! Both Mammy Yammy and the NHTSA say I have a recall due on the 2013 for this switch. I'm really debating just buying it myself, I have no confidence in dealership personnel at all. But if I don't have to wait 10-15 days for it to be ordered then get an appt, I might just let them do it. I know, I know better. But to save $90-110? Maybe......

So.... I called a dealership and these boneheads wanted me to drop off the bike for them to order a part so they can "maybe" get the switch replaced in 12-15 days. I said no thanks and ordered one from about 60 miles away on the 27th, got it on the 28th and installed it on the 29th so I don't know WTF their problem is. Everything works, no left over parts.

Took a little RTE with our old friend sector7g. He moved on from FJR to Hondapotomus to now a Tenere. He's liking it. Rode southward to sunny 84*F Mt Pleasant, SC. 500.8 mile day for me. Cruise control/brake light repair performed flawlessly.

Yesterday I went over to Pants house. We rebuilt and resprung my forks with the hyperpro spring to match the hyperpro shock that I recently installed. I must say the combination of the two compliment the bike well and I'm very pleased.

A recent acquaintance brought over his 2003 FJR with 50k kms (~30k miles). Complaint was tranny "noises" at lower speeds and rpms. A Yamaha tech (not young) advised replacing the clutch basket, but had not opened it up for a look (lazy). Tech had been instructed to regrease the driveshaft and rear wheel splines, change the pumpkin oil, regrease the rear suspension relay arm (he did not do the front one), bleed clutch. The bike does not idle smoothly, but runs OK at normal speeds. I said, bring it over, no way you need a clutch, so he came yesterday. Also wanted LED headlights installed. Had earlier told me the oil was black-ish when he got it, but looked good when he arrived (oil clean w/2k on it, was second oil change since he owned it). Possible the PO did not follow a good oil change schedule. Bike was bought from a dealer, who obviously did nothing to the bike, e.g., a fresh oil change, WTF.

Removed clutch cover, internal engine looked pristine clean. Clutch plates all looked great, a few dry plates as is normal, did a soak while apart, reassembled. Brass bushing in clutch lever was newish and greased. Clutch had also been bled by said tech as had been requested.

Spark plugs had been changed which had helped with the idle problem. We didn't have enough time to dive in further, so I suggested he could do a simple cleaning of MAP sensor hose/nipple, refresh of the spark plug wire/spark plug adapter connection, see if that helps. We'll revisit that later.

Tech not interested in doing valve check, apparently "too much work". Potentially one might be tad tight, thus idle issue? Won't know til we get there. The bottom line, the noise at lower speeds and rpms is obviously due to poor idling and when going slow in maybe too high a gear, gets some driveline lash. My opinion of factory trained Yamaha techs is going further downhill.

Actually yesterday but I wanted to check my suspension settings since last ride seemed a little harsh. Dealership when they did the forks claimed they didn't change the settings but they definitely changed them. I reset them to what I think is 8 clicks out, the clicks were difficult to feel this time, hope they haven't screwed up something else. The ride seemed much better but I'll see if the handling is affected. Don't you hate when you do something against your better judgment and turns out to be right. Why can't we have reputable dealers for when we need them.

Gen1 relay arm service.... noticed yesterday there does not seem to be a way to service the front pivot without centerstand removal. Just an FYI.

FastPappy, I don't recall if you had springs upgraded in your forks. Gen1/2 forks are way undersprung, so if you have the original springs in there, wind in the preload adjusters all the way. 8 clicks damping good starting point, tweak from there, you won't be too far from that in the end.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun May 01, 2022 8:51 am Gen1 relay arm service.... noticed yesterday there does not seem to be a way to service the front pivot without centerstand removal. Just an FYI.

Good to know. I'm still waiting for the step-by-step "How to" with pictures for the Gen II and Gen III+.
Seriously, I am really waiting until I get my "spare" Penske shock refurbished so I can do it all at once. Found a shop reasonably local to me that says they can do it. Apparently, they are the "go-to" guys in New Brunswick for snowmobile suspensions and do a lot of motorcycles as well.

Deciding whether I am going to bother with swingarm service - I have never seen one that looked like it needed it (at least not on an FJR).

At minimum, and it's an hour job at most, grease the three you can get at. I've seen some ugly ones due to water intrusion, all rusty. If you're lucky, Yammy put enough grease in yours to keep the water out, which is what we're really accomplishing here. Bearings and bushings are expensive..... an ounce of prevention.
You need to have the relay arm undone and swung out of your way to swap in the Penske, but a PITA to get the top bolt out (ABS stuff in the way). Hint, don't drive the top bolt all the way out, just enough to get the old shock off. Having a helper would be beneficial.

Well, Nate got here yesterday morning right on time:



I pulled my horses out of the stable so we could have room to work.



I thought he was coming over to grease the relay arm bearings. Wrong....





We re-did the forks on his bike. Had to re-learn how to remove the dampening rod assy, but once we figured it out, it was a piece of cake.

Guess we will do the relay arm another time.

Incidentally, I use a 2" exhaust tip as my "middle and top bushing driver" - it is absolutely perfect. And I fabricated a nifty fork seal driver tool out of PVC pipe that also works well - I can post a picture of it if anyone is interested.

Ross - here's a few pics from when I did my relay arm, including replacing the bearings and seals because I was concerned they were too rusty to put back in service (my bike had 50K on it when I took them down, and in general, 90% + of my riding is on dry roads). Using blocks and jack stands, you can easily do it this way on the ground/slab.

viewtopic.php?p=99287#p99287

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun May 01, 2022 9:15 am At minimum, and it's an hour job at most, grease the three you can get at. I've seen some ugly ones due to water intrusion, all rusty. If you're lucky, Yammy put enough grease in yours to keep the water out, which is what we're really accomplishing here. Bearings and bushings are expensive..... an ounce of prevention.
You need to have the relay arm undone and swung out of your way to swap in the Penske, but a PITA to get the top bolt out (ABS stuff in the way). Hint, don't drive the top bolt all the way out, just enough to get the old shock off. Having a helper would be beneficial.

I have done the easily available relay arm bearings before and swapped out rear shocks a few times (yes, the top bolt is a PITA with the ABS in the way). I haven't personally done the relay arm front bearing but my bike's previous owner did - now due for a refresh. I will wait that service until the shock is ready. If someone has tried and documented the relay arm service without a skyhook before I am ready to do it, that would be great.

The Penske on the bike is past due for service - probably 80,000 km or more (don't know exactly when the original owner installed it). My "spare" Penske came from my '07 and has over 200,000 km on it (although it has been refurbished a couple of times). I took it off the '07 before I sold it because it was leaking and the purchaser had his own aftermarket shock that we installed before he drove it away. I think the older Penske will be OK with cleaning, fresh fluid and new seals/o-rings. I have always used a "shock sock" so the shaft isn't pitted or corroded. When that one is installed, I'll refurb the other one and keep it as a spare or sell it...

I was just speculating if it was worthwhile to bother with the swingarm bearings... I have never heard of anyone who got into it and found them desperately in need of fresh lube. I suppose it wouldn't take that long since I'll have the rest of it apart anyway. Good time to have a look at the U-joint, shaft and front splines...

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun May 01, 2022 8:51 am Gen1 relay arm service.... noticed yesterday there does not seem to be a way to service the front pivot without centerstand removal. Just an FYI.

FastPappy, I don't recall if you had springs upgraded in your forks. Gen1/2 forks are way undersprung, so if you have the original springs in there, wind in the preload adjusters all the way. 8 clicks damping good starting point, tweak from there, you won't be too far from that in the end.

Yep. Traxxion Spring kit installed. One of the reasons I let the dealer do the installation. I thought I might save some money since the front wheel was already off getting new rubber figured I'd have the forks done even though they really didn't need it. I'm still wondering how they did the seals with out changing the bushings (they said they didn't need it) has me wondering if they even did it. Not only did I not save any money but they even charged me more than the originally quoted price. I might have gotten only a new Spring and oil. Dam.

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun May 01, 2022 9:52 am
Ross - here's a few pics from when I did my relay arm, including replacing the bearings and seals because I was concerned they were too rusty to put back in service (my bike had 50K on it when I took them down, and in general, 90% + of my riding is on dry roads). Using blocks and jack stands, you can easily do it this way on the ground/slab.

viewtopic.php?p=99287#p99287

Thanks for the link. Previous owner reversed the centerstand bolts so I don't need to worry about that part.
I don't have a set of jack stands but that could be remedied. I am not in a huge rush so might wait to see if the other procedure works. I could try it on my own but would rather benefit from someone else's experience.

Any info on that light bar? Looks pretty substantial. My Clearwater Ericas are mounted on mirror mounts and are heavy enough to vibrate the mirrors pretty badly on a rough road...