FJRiders.com

Ross - are you interested in seeing if the "leverage" method works for getting to the front relay arm bolt and avoiding having to cut the 2 front C/S bolts? I'll take some pictures this weekend to (hopefully) document it. I'm not going to get too aggressive prying on the exhaust, as I'm not interested in the ramifications of that going wrong.

@n4hhe - absolutely no worries re: lifting on the rear axle. I've done it quite a few times with no adverse effects. I do have a 2x4 that I've cut a slot in, and place it between the jack and the axle to distribute the load across a larger piece of the axle. But I think that is overkill and it would not make any difference to just pry against the axle with the jack. It's just not that much load. This is far easier and safer than pivoting the bike on the c/S to get on the jack stands sitting on the lifting blocks. That's gonna end up badly.

Hppants wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 1:08 pm Ross - are you interested in seeing if the "leverage" method works for getting to the front relay arm bolt and avoiding having to cut the 2 front C/S bolts? I'll take some pictures this weekend to (hopefully) document it. I'm not going to get too aggressive prying on the exhaust, as I'm not interested in the ramifications of that going wrong.

Yes, please. If this works out well, it would be great to have a pictorial "How to" we can all refer to for future maintenance. It will be interesting to see if the same procedure works for your Gen III as my Gen II. Like you, I would not be inclined to put excessive pressure on the exhaust. I don't want to damage the gaskets or (worse) damage the header or my (Staintune) muffler.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 10:19 am

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 10:12 am I sifted through some old threads, some are mixed up in lengthy "What did you do to your FJR today" threads..... anyway, Gen2 as far as I know, no reason Gen3 would be different, Gen 1 might be different.

I thought that the centerstand geometry was different for Gen III although I might be mis-remembering. (I thought there was some discussion on that when Gen III came out - some said it was easier to put the bike on the stand.)
Gen I is definitely different although it might or might not make a difference in terms of whether this procedure would be possible.

Height only..... Gen3 stand a tad shorter, thus easier.

rbentnail wrote: ↑Fri Apr 22, 2022 2:12 pm Now I need to find whatever it is that's keeping my cruise control from setting. I'll turn it on but the amber light blinks and it won't set. I can get it to reset by cycling the ignition. I rode for a while using just the front brake, didn't happen. Then I rode for a while using just the rear brake, didn't happen.

Got some mechanic-ing done today. Pulled & lubed the brake pedal and checked the brake switch. All seems fine there. Both handlebar levers recently done so I skipped those. Pulled the front brake switch housing off and apart. The light switch works fine, the CC switch is mushy not clicky. Lo and behold! Both Mammy Yammy and the NHTSA say I have a recall due on the 2013 for this switch. I'm really debating just buying it myself, I have no confidence in dealership personnel at all. But if I don't have to wait 10-15 days for it to be ordered then get an appt, I might just let them do it. I know, I know better. But to save $90-110? Maybe......

The front brake switch recall includes hours of labor due to routing of the cable and connector deep inside the fairing.

As I recall from memory, dealer gets paid 0.9 hrs., dash, windshield and upper nose plastic has to come off, connector is in the nose. Part is around $100-ish.

Today the weather wasn't co-operating, so left her in the garage and went for a colonoscopy instead....................

ice station zebra wrote: ↑Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:46 pm Today the weather wasn't co-operating, so left her in the garage and went for a colonoscopy....................

Wow...you must REALLY dread those bad weather days!

ice station zebra wrote: ↑Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:46 pm Today the weather wasn't co-operating, so left her in the garage and went for a colonoscopy instead....................

That’s a crappy deal!

Cav47 wrote: ↑Wed Apr 27, 2022 8:52 pm

ice station zebra wrote: ↑Wed Apr 27, 2022 1:46 pm Today the weather wasn't co-operating, so left her in the garage and went for a colonoscopy instead....................

That’s a crappy deal!

You're on fire.

My FJR is on the operating table at the house for some out patient surgery. Nothing serious, but the new GPS and wiring harness have to be routed through the bodywork and under the tank back to the fuse block. Long way to go given the battery location is only about 2 feet from the GPS but the Fuse block is all the way back in the tail of the bike.

Same with the KLX, almost naked waiting for the minor operation. No fuse block on that but a new harness and mount are on their way.

Going back to one GPS to swap between the bikes.

Cav47 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:21 am Going back to one GPS to swap between the bikes.

I'm updating my Garmin gps with updated maps right now. Always makes me nervous as after I bought the 660, about the first time I updated the maps it said I was out of memory. Added a memory card, and that ran out of memory last year and my routes wouldn't work right at SEO. Added a larger memory card (larger than allowed per the owners manual but ok per Garmin online) and am hoping for the best. Besides these little hiccups, I've been happy with the 660 and while I'd love the brighter screen of newer models I don't want the hassle of wiring a new harness.

Deagle10 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 28, 2022 10:22 am

Cav47 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 28, 2022 9:21 am Going back to one GPS to swap between the bikes.

I'm updating my Garmin gps with updated maps right now. Always makes me nervous as after I bought the 660, about the first time I updated the maps it said I was out of memory. Added a memory card, and that ran out of memory last year and my routes wouldn't work right at SEO. Added a larger memory card (larger than allowed per the owners manual but ok per Garmin online) and am hoping for the best. Besides these little hiccups, I've been happy with the 660 and while I'd love the brighter screen of newer models I don't want the hassle of wiring a new harness.

I too had a 660. The software and map updates were not the issue. I am getting older and the size of the font combined with the lower brightness in that particular unit were enough push me over the edge. I have a new XT on the way. I kinda wanted to keep my 550 as a back up. I knew that unit and the idiosyncrasies of it. I will just adapt to the new quirks that are inevitable in all technology.

It takes less time to get at the wiring harness than you think.

Cav47 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 28, 2022 11:57 am It takes less time to get at the wiring harness than you think.

Brandon wired it so it goes up through the bottom of that tiny fairing storage pocket and it just plugs into what used to be called the cigarette lighter. Then it's hot when the bike is on and turns off when the bike is turned off. No worry of it running down my battery. There was some splicing and cutting and adding a 90 degree plug at the end so it didn't take up much room in that pocket. That goes beyond my capabilities so I'm not updating until something breaks or the 660 doesn't work anymore. Or my eyes can't see it anymore.....which now that you mention it has become a bit of a challenge.

I'm a little scared of having XT learning issues too. I've gotten the 660 to work almost perfectly well with Myroute.

Way to go Brandon!

I recently switched to an XT from a 595. The brighter screen alone is worth it to me. I'm a simple guy- this is the first time I ever bluetoothed my phone with my gps. This now is just to see traffic and weather. No comms system here.

For we simpler folk, I picked up this little doodad https://www.taotronics.com/products/tt- ... h-receiver. I'm an mp3-with-earbuds guy so this thing allows me to hear music from my gps SD card and audio turn instructions for those very rare times I need audio over visual.

Got my cut-to-code keys in the mail. Installed locks in the new city cases and mounted them. This morning, established that a city case will swallow a rev-it sand 3 jacket or a pair of AD-1’s easily.

The 4500rpm cap during the 600 mile break-in is seriously cramping my style. About 200 miles to go.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 6:10 am Got my cut-to-code keys in the mail. Installed locks in the new city cases and mounted them. This morning, established that a city case will swallow a rev-it sand 3 jacket or a pair of AD-1’s easily.

The 4500rpm cap during the 600 mile break-in is seriously cramping my style. About 200 miles to go.

I had jwilly break in my 13. I’m sure he’d do it for you as well.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 6:10 am Got my cut-to-code keys in the mail. Installed locks in the new city cases and mounted them. This morning, established that a city case will swallow a rev-it sand 3 jacket or a pair of AD-1’s easily.

The 4500rpm cap during the 600 mile break-in is seriously cramping my style. About 200 miles to go.

Maybe it's the new Lumberg shifting pattern?

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Fri Apr 29, 2022 6:10 am ...
The 4500rpm cap during the 600 mile break-in is seriously cramping my style. About 200 miles to go.

The "4500" is not a cap. Your handbook says "Avoid prolonged operation above 4500rpm". So you can, indeed should, take the revs higher for brief periods, say while accelerating; once at the higher speed change up. Just don't use full throttle, nor hold the revs high whilst cruising.

This does help the engine bed in under different conditions.