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Might I suggest with that wheel chock you put a 4' length of 2x4 across in front, maybe an upright and coupla angled pieces to get more support higher up on the front tar..... ya know, so the beatch won't tip over.

I rode it again. This riding is habit forming. Took my visiting sister in law for Mr Toads wild ride on 215, up to the BRP, down 276 and the Caesar's Head overlook, all in 3 1/2 hours. Time for dinner prepared by someone else. She was amazed at the passing, whatever that means.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Apr 24, 2022 12:40 pm Might I suggest with that wheel chock you put a 4' length of 2x4 across in front, maybe an upright and coupla angled pieces to get more support higher up on the front tar..... ya know, so the beatch won't tip over.

I think I'm going to put some thing across the front - 3-ish feet - make it wider to provide more "left/right" support. That's all we need to worry about with the center stand off and the bike on the jack stands.

The question is how are you lifting it to get it on the jack stands.... as soon as the centerstand leaves the floor, it won't take a lot to start tipping to one side.
Iff'n you had one of these and a tie strap to each handlebar.....
https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-c ... 61670.html

I only wish I was as smart or industrious. I supported mine with my Amex when I had all the underbits serviced a few months ago. I had damage/welding from something I struck, and while they were down there removing damaged stuff and replacing with new parts, I had them cut off the backwards bolt and put the new one in the right way.

Which never would have happened if I hadn’t learned it here.

Actually, everything down there looked good. Surprisingly good, considering mileage and weather. I attribute that to Pants helping me a year or so ago, with advice on dealing with the underbits. I suspended the bike (partially), from a folding ladder, and backed out and lubed everything
I could get to, and sprayed some thinner lube on the rest.

Despite many miles and much wet weather riding, things looked pretty good during full disassembly and inspection.

And we are off! Finally, decent weather for a ride! Big loop thru the Kawartha's and Haliburton Highlands in Ontario. Roads were in good shape and 99% clear of winter sand and debris. New tires all scrubbed in.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Apr 24, 2022 3:33 pm The question is how are you lifting it to get it on the jack stands.... as soon as the centerstand leaves the floor, it won't take a lot to start tipping to one side.
Iff'n you had one of these and a tie strap to each handlebar.....
https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-c ... 61670.html

.

I'm going to remove the mufflers and the rear wheel. Then stick the rear axle back in the pumpkin/swingarm and jack up on it just until the centerstand comes off the ground. Then rest the rear sets on the jack stands. the front wheel shouldn't lighten up any.

I have some eye bolts I can screw into my contraptions and use that as a tie down. That can't hurt - thanks for the tip.

In the interests of science, I'd like you to try something else first..... bike on centerstand. Loosen all pivot point nuts for easier removal later (except the middle pivot, must rotate forward past the centerstand to get tools on it). Remove left muffler completely, undo rear muffler mount on right side. Optional remove bolt either side that mount the rubber cushions for the headers on the centerstand. Once you get to the most forward pivot bolt, try to remove (there's a bushing) get it mostly out.... pry the exhaust outboard a smidge and see if the front pivot bolt will go down and out past the header pipe. A couple has done this successfully and it saves the whole removal of the centerstand thing. Nothing to lose by trying.

Put new tires on. Back wheel went together surprisingly easy. Then before tightening down noticed the extra wheel spacer not being used. Several swear words later back wheel properly assembled.

Deagle10 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:30 pm Put new tires on. Back wheel went together surprisingly easy. Then before tightening down noticed the extra wheel spacer not being used. Several swear words later back wheel properly assembled.

I believe that happened to me once as well. Thanks for not making it an EPIC FAIL and riding it that way.

Deagle10 wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:30 pm Put new tires on. Back wheel went together surprisingly easy. Then before tightening down noticed the extra wheel spacer not being used. Several swear words later back wheel properly assembled.

I usually find I need at least two extra hands when assembling everything for the rear wheel. If it goes on easily, you know you've done it wrong.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:26 pm In the interests of science, I'd like you to try something else first..... bike on centerstand. Loosen all pivot point nuts for easier removal later (except the middle pivot, must rotate forward past the centerstand to get tools on it). Remove left muffler completely, undo rear muffler mount on right side. Optional remove bolt either side that mount the rubber cushions for the headers on the centerstand. Once you get to the most forward pivot bolt, try to remove (there's a bushing) get it mostly out.... pry the exhaust outboard a smidge and see if the front pivot bolt will go down and out past the header pipe. A couple has done this successfully and it saves the whole removal of the centerstand thing. Nothing to lose by trying.

Nothing to lose at all - I generally understand what you are suggesting and it's worth a shot. We'll see.

Hppants wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:10 pm

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Apr 24, 2022 3:33 pm The question is how are you lifting it to get it on the jack stands.... as soon as the centerstand leaves the floor, it won't take a lot to start tipping to one side.
Iff'n you had one of these and a tie strap to each handlebar.....
https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-c ... 61670.html

.

I'm going to remove the mufflers and the rear wheel. Then stick the rear axle back in the pumpkin/swingarm and jack up on it just until the centerstand comes off the ground. Then rest the rear sets on the jack stands. the front wheel shouldn't lighten up any.

I have some eye bolts I can screw into my contraptions and use that as a tie down. That can't hurt - thanks for the tip.

On other motorcycles I have put it up on center stand. Set jack stands a bit higher than the point I want to sit on the jack stands. Then rock the bike to one side lifting the point on the other side to the jack stand. Then rock the other way lifting the second point to the second jack stand height.

Procedure is not without risk. When one side is on the jack stand and you lean the other way to lift the second the first can fall over from side load.

Concerned about lifting from the axle after removing the rear wheel. Don’t want to bend the axle.

Put in a new neutral switch on my 122000 mile '08. The old switch had been intermittent to the neutral indicator light, and the contacts were quite worn.

Installation was easier than I expected considering that others had experienced difficulties with the two mounting screws.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Apr 25, 2022 1:26 pm In the interests of science, I'd like you to try something else first..... bike on centerstand. Loosen all pivot point nuts for easier removal later (except the middle pivot, must rotate forward past the centerstand to get tools on it). Remove left muffler completely, undo rear muffler mount on right side. Optional remove bolt either side that mount the rubber cushions for the headers on the centerstand. Once you get to the most forward pivot bolt, try to remove (there's a bushing) get it mostly out.... pry the exhaust outboard a smidge and see if the front pivot bolt will go down and out past the header pipe. A couple has done this successfully and it saves the whole removal of the centerstand thing. Nothing to lose by trying.

I would love to see this done by someone! Got any pictures?
Which bike Gen was this? - geometries are not identical.
If this turns out to be a simple and reliable method for servicing the relay arm, this would be great! This is one service that is frequently neglected because it is a PITA and many people don't have a setup to accomplish it. (Probably will try this with next tire change in a few weeks. Or when I get my Penske shock serviced later this year.)

Not sure I understand:
"Optional remove bolt either side that mount the rubber cushions for the headers on the centerstand."
Will probably be clearer once I get the rear wheel off and have a good look.
Are these bolts on the following fiche for a 2011 Gen II? What number?
https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamah ... d-footrest

Thanks

See parts 84 and 85 on your diagram, those are two rubber mounts on the most forward points... refer to exhaust diagram for the two screws, item 2. I don't know that removing them is any great advantage sideways, but may help if you need to pry the exhaust up that extra smidge to get the pivot bolt out. At the next opportunity I service a relay arm, giving it a shot.

With the right muffler still clamped, should give a decent lever. A couple of guys removed the muffler, inserted a pipe inside the headers, but methinks that's OK if you have the right size pipe to fit inside... another just pried on the header pipe.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamah ... bl/exhaust

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 8:55 am See parts 84 and 85 on your diagram, those are two rubber mounts on the most forward points... refer to exhaust diagram for the two screws, item 2. I don't know that removing them is any great advantage sideways, but may help if you need to pry the exhaust up that extra smidge to get the pivot bolt out. At the next opportunity I service a relay arm, giving it a shot.

With the right muffler still clamped, should give a decent lever. A couple of guys removed the muffler, inserted a pipe inside the headers, but methinks that's OK if you have the right size pipe to fit inside... another just pried on the header pipe.

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamah ... bl/exhaust

Thanks. It is a little clearer now. I expect I will be able to figure it out enough to try once I get the wheel out of the way.
Any idea which Gen this was done on? I think there are some differences that might make it harder/easier.

I sifted through some old threads, some are mixed up in lengthy "What did you do to your FJR today" threads..... anyway, Gen2 as far as I know, no reason Gen3 would be different, Gen 1 might be different.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 10:12 am I sifted through some old threads, some are mixed up in lengthy "What did you do to your FJR today" threads..... anyway, Gen2 as far as I know, no reason Gen3 would be different, Gen 1 might be different.

I thought that the centerstand geometry was different for Gen III although I might be mis-remembering. (I thought there was some discussion on that when Gen III came out - some said it was easier to put the bike on the stand.)
Gen I is definitely different although it might or might not make a difference in terms of whether this procedure would be possible.

John d wrote: ↑Tue Apr 26, 2022 12:34 am Put in a new neutral switch on my 122000 mile '08. The old switch had been intermittent to the neutral indicator light, and the contacts were quite worn.

Installation was easier than I expected considering that others had experienced difficulties with the two mounting screws.

That happened early in the life of my '07 (12,000 miles or so). The contact pads were not significantly worn and gear indicators worked perfectly for 1-5. Green neutral light was sporadic for a while and then stopped working altogether. Turned out that there was an electrical discontinuity between the connector and the contact pad for "N". Turns out that the break was in the potted part of the engine end and was not easily repairable.

As you say, the replacement (for a Gen II) was surprisingly easy. No issues for the next 175,000 miles when I sold it.