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First oil/filter/FD fluid change since the recall. Nothing sparkly. Everything looked good.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Sat Apr 10, 2021 7:48 pm First oil/filter/FD fluid change since the recall. Nothing sparkly. Everything looked good.

Did they really even touch your bike?

Well, I was going to do Cherohala solo today. But Duane/1911 came back up for air and texted me back and said he could ride but only for a half day.

So we did ride in NC on a perfect supersecret route. Perfect weather, perfect scenery, perfect roads, perfect day. Sometimes it happens. 280miles for me. More for Mr 1911.

I was thinking about you today on the skyway and the dragon. Hope I can fool you and the titan of industry formerly known as Jwilly into a ride one of these days.

It was good to leave before daylight and be at 450 fairly early. It got down to 44F at the top, but when it’s a lovely temp on both ends, it hardly matters if it’s cold at elevation.

I’m not sure I’ll ever get tired of that run. But I’m not above running the skyway from Tellico, to Val Kilmer, to the big store on the dragon, and turning right and skipping the dragon for 28. I don’t want to be anywhere near the dragon on a warm, sunny day after 11am.

Today, I ran it out and back before 1015. It was superb.

Ride safe, bitches.

First ride of the year for me - this work and family responsibilities thing keeps getting in the way...

Anyways, while flexing the FJR ponies, I stoped to see our ponies, aka the porcelain princess & hurricane dolly.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:02 pm ...I’m not sure I’ll ever get tired of that run. But I’m not above running the skyway from Tellico, to Val Kilmer, to the big store on the dragon, and turning right and skipping the dragon for 28. I don’t want to be anywhere near the dragon on a warm, sunny day after 11am...

To that end, next time a Saturday or Sunday comes with non-rain in the forecast, let's call a standing order to meetup in Clayton, GA with KSU at 8am. I guess I can ride in the dark to get there. That should get you up to swallow that Dragon by 11am as you are want to do while I buy Harley Decals to put on my FJR. I would follow you with or without jwilly up 28 to the Gap then 129 to the Cherry Cola...opposite of the way you ran it Sunday. After that I would either express it home or do it the fun way, depending. I'm sure 1911 would come if he could but he seemingly has designs on the western half of the United States coming up. Marilee will not let him miss that...and we know she is in charge. I am only out on Louanne's birthday, can't make it on that day. Otherwise I will make it a point to make it, work be darned.

I’m down for whatever. Even head over in your direction to start so you don’t get all lonely coming so far to the good stuff. And have flexibility the next few weekends. Let’s do it for America.

bill lumberg wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 6:57 pm I’m down for whatever. Even head over in your direction to start so you don’t get all lonely coming so far to the good stuff. And have flexibility the next few weekends. Let’s do it for America.

Im gettin inspired.

One week Cherohala and 28, next time Rt 80 and Double Island Rd. Im fine with dat.

I burned most of my afternoon replacing the very dead battery in my '15. Maybe in 2-3 years I'll forgive the engineer at Yamaha that made it necessary to remove so much plastic just to take the battery out. If the dash had the plastic shape altered by an entire 12mm (0.5") the battery would have come right out. Since the battery is a maintenance item at some point, you would have thought that someone would have done something about it. Fortunately, I haven't had to get at the headlights yet.

I'm going to need to service my brakes soon, so in anticipation I checked my caliper pins to see if they would come out. They won't. I whacked 'em with my hand held impact driver and they didn't move. It may be time to spritz them with some form of penetrating oil and give them time to soak. Ya, I know, Honda Part No. 43215-KZ4-J41 -- if I can get that far.

Cutting the rug at a place called the jug with my girl named Linda Sue.

Gimme three steps...

Earlier in the day we were at the Rowena Curves and White River Falls in Oregon. We road the Rowena Curves each way. Nice day with ~G.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Sun Apr 18, 2021 3:58 pm I burned most of my afternoon replacing the very dead battery in my '15. Maybe in 2-3 years I'll forgive the engineer at Yamaha that made it necessary to remove so much plastic just to take the battery out. If the dash had the plastic shape altered by an entire 12mm (0.5") the battery would have come right out. Since the battery is a maintenance item at some point, you would have thought that someone would have done something about it. Fortunately, I haven't had to get at the headlights yet.

I'm going to need to service my brakes soon, so in anticipation I checked my caliper pins to see if they would come out. They won't. I whacked 'em with my hand held impact driver and they didn't move. It may be time to spritz them with some form of penetrating oil and give them time to soak. Ya, I know, Honda Part No. 43215-KZ4-J41 -- if I can get that far.

The problem is at the tapered seat where the head seats... touch of antiseize on that if you can get them out.... be patient with that penetrant and fingers crossed...... hate to tell you last resort is to use Vice Grips where the pin goes through the pads and pray pin is salvageable.

Took my FJR for a ride today with its brand spanky new Yuasa battery. The volt meter on my radar detector showed 13.0 to 13.1 volts from idle to redline for the duration of the ride. So, it's just a radar detector, how accurate could that be. When I got home I put my DVM on the pigtail that's connected directly to the battery. It read 13.08 volts, the radar detector read 13.0 to 13.1 volts. The battery was filled then gently trickle charged for 10 hours before being installed so it has had good treatment and not a suspect. The trickle charger took it up to 13.6 volts and then after a resting period the battery had settled to 13.0 volts.

I really don't want to have to take off the faring to check the Rectifier/Regulator. I even less want to find that the R/R is ok and the voltage is being lost someplace between the R/R and the battery. That'll make me start to feel like dcarver and the eternal hunt for missing volts. It's supposed to rain over the next couple of days, it may give me the impetus to play Resistance is Futile with my FJR. The only up side to this is that I know how to troubleshoot these issues.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 3:01 pm Took my FJR for a ride today with its brand spanky new Yuasa battery. The volt meter on my radar detector showed 13.0 to 13.1 volts from idle to redline for the duration of the ride. So, it's just a radar detector, how accurate could that be. When I got home I put my DVM on the pigtail that's connected directly to the battery. It read 13.08 volts, the radar detector read 13.0 to 13.1 volts. The battery was filled then gently trickle charged for 10 hours before being installed so it has had good treatment and not a suspect. The trickle charger took it up to 13.6 volts and then after a resting period the battery had settled to 13.0 volts.

I really don't want to have to take off the faring to check the Rectifier/Regulator. I even less want to find that the R/R is ok and the voltage is being lost someplace between the R/R and the battery. That'll make me start to feel like dcarver and the eternal hunt for missing volts. It's supposed to rain over the next couple of days, it may give me the impetus to play Resistance is Futile with my FJR. The only up side to this is that I know how to troubleshoot these issues.

Just throw a bunch a high voltage at it. Poof! Problem disappears.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 3:01 pm Took my FJR for a ride today with its brand spanky new Yuasa battery. The volt meter on my radar detector showed 13.0 to 13.1 volts from idle to redline for the duration of the ride. So, it's just a radar detector, how accurate could that be. When I got home I put my DVM on the pigtail that's connected directly to the battery. It read 13.08 volts, the radar detector read 13.0 to 13.1 volts. The battery was filled then gently trickle charged for 10 hours before being installed so it has had good treatment and not a suspect. The trickle charger took it up to 13.6 volts and then after a resting period the battery had settled to 13.0 volts.

I really don't want to have to take off the faring to check the Rectifier/Regulator. I even less want to find that the R/R is ok and the voltage is being lost someplace between the R/R and the battery. That'll make me start to feel like dcarver and the eternal hunt for missing volts. It's supposed to rain over the next couple of days, it may give me the impetus to play Resistance is Futile with my FJR. The only up side to this is that I know how to troubleshoot these issues.

Hmm a bit low..... Regulator is a Shindengen (likely FH020AA) and they just don't fail.... it's hiding rearward of the glove box... the usual, unplug, contact cleaner optional but blow dry it before reconnecting. That will refresh..... should be getting 14+V at fast idle and above.
The three-way connector is the 3 typically yellow stator wires. The two-way is power and ground, red is connected direct to battery and is always hot. No wire to trace there, it's on or it's not.
The wiring diagram shows 5 of what looks to be either splices or ground spiders... sorry I can't tell you where those are.

I know where the R/R is, been there a lot with my '04 (and they have returned it to that location on the Gen III). Yes, the regulator is pretty bullet proof. So is the OEM stator. I'm pretty sure that the problem is going to be voltage drops in the wires between the R/R, the starter relay and the the battery. The ~14 gauge wires from the R/R go directly to the starter relay and connect on two heavy gauge studs, then leaves the starter relay with the large gauge battery wires going to the battery. I have generally found one significant voltage drop location at the starter relay studs due to corrosion. There are no connectors between the R/R and the starter relay. On my '04 I had a significant voltage drop between the R/R and the starter relay so I cobbled a larger gauge harness which helped.

The R/R connector is a PITA to disconnect, but as a result the connector contacts remain clean.

Fortunately I both know how to check the stator & regulator and have done this on many different brands of motorcycles as well as several FJRs. I put a healthy electrical system down for a winter's nap but it woke up with a dead battery and probably a little corrosion. I'm not blaming the nibbling, nesting mice -- yet.

I put anti-seize on the bolts holding my T-Rex engine cage bolts. I hadn't expected to be removing them so soon...

OEM Stator...yes, I remember that bastard aftermarket stator the previous owner put on my 04 that crapped out on me on a rainy Sunday evening on westbound US64 east of Murphy, TN.

Good luck, hope it's a quick and not terribly painful fix, o bearded one.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:26 pm OEM Stator...yes, I remember that bastard aftermarket stator the previous owner put on my 04 that crapped out on me on a rainy Sunday evening on westbound US64 east of Murphy, TN.

Not familiar with Murphy, TN?
Especially not on US-64.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Tue Apr 20, 2021 4:26 pm OEM Stator...yes, I remember that bastard aftermarket stator the previous owner put on my 04 that crapped out on me on a rainy Sunday evening on westbound US64 east of Murphy, TN.

And,

ElectroSporty crapped out on me (again) a few days before EOM.

OEM or nothing else.