FJRiders.com

Replacing a rotor? Not hard. Take a mini torch to heat up the rotor bolts before attempting removal. I believe they are red-loctited.

Impact driver will also help with nice new hex bit. Yammy says use new bolts, but that's because they come pre-treated with loctite. You can re-use if you use your own (blue) loctite.
Have you tried straightening the rotor? Rotate the rotor rivet buttons to ensure they are free to float, allowing rotor to stay centered. If you don't have a dial indicator, while wheel installed rotate it with a piece of chalk or pencil held up to the rotor, it will leave chalk/pencil at the high spots.... take your time....

Took it out for a 150 mile ride, this afternoon

New front tire, good brake caliper clean-n-lube, all new EBC HH Sintered up front. Also had installed a tee valve stem to add FOBO TPMS.

Today will be installing an Ivan flashed ECU with the 2 checks/adjustments that go with it and maybe new footpeg underside knobby things. Then of course a test ride

Rode it 200 miles yesterday. The Shinkos 009 Ravens are wearing well. Nearly no wear on the front and 1/64 wear on the rear in 1000 miles. Found some nice roads south of Spokane that were free of sand and gravel and was able to take advantage of it. Whoo hooo!

Changed engine oil, filter, and final drive oil.

rbentnail wrote: ↑Sat Mar 13, 2021 4:19 am New front tire, good brake caliper clean-n-lube, all new EBC HH Sintered up front. Also had installed a tee valve stem to add FOBO TPMS.

Today will be installing an Ivan flashed ECU with the 2 checks/adjustments that go with it and maybe new footpeg underside knobby things. Then of course a test ride

Got the Flashed ECU installed + a new air filter. My take (copied from fjrowners original post):

I rode about 100 miles thataway-> on NC 45-55 mph roads and back on 80-90 mph interstate. Before you read my evaluation of it, you should realize that I've said for many years that I am NOT a motorcycle "purist". I'm one of those people that cannot feel the difference that 2 clicks on a shock absorber makes. Nor can I feel the difference between tire brands. The list goes on & on- all the little subtleties that people post about, well let's just say I don't believe in them and let it go at that. So, keeping that in mind:

1) Folks have posted general statements about "waking up the engine" and "snappier power" and all that. I don't see it. Maybe b/c mine is a 14 y/o 138K mile machine. Still runs like a scalded dog, just nothing different to me post flash.

2) People posted about smoother shifting. Nope, nothing new there.

3) People posted about the elimination of the notorious idle surge removal. Nope, still there. I did have to adjust my idle down significantly. Pre flash it was 1150 or so and hasn't needed adjustment for at least 10 yrs. Post flash, with no other work except a new air filter, idle was about 2100. Ridiculous!

4) People posted about the removal, or at least the change of, the 4-5K rpm vibration. Nope, feels the same to me. If anything, my right side mirror vibrates a little more than before.

5) And finally the biggie- the snatchy off-to-on throttle. I'll give Ivan this one, it's gone. But at a cost. What is lost is engine braking. Guys that ride with me know I am a serious user of engine braking. It appears to me that how the smoother throttle transition is achieved is by forcing the engine to stay at higher rpm for about 3 seconds after the throttle is closed. So when the clutch is pulled in for a shift change, the rpm stay at the level it was at. If you're whacking the throttle some and shift from 2 to 3 at 6K rpm, the rpm never drop from 6K rpm. Even when the clutch lever is pulled & held in, the rpm stay at the level it was at. And when you chop the throttle in 5th at 80 mph it's like there's no return spring attached anymore- the bike continues to go with fuel at 80 mph just like the throttle is still open- for another 3 seconds minimum. Then it seems the fuel is gradually reduced over the next 2-3 seconds so there's even more time of no engine braking. This happens exactly the same way in 4th, 3rd and 2nd. So, to me, with this flash, my days of brakeless twisty riding are over. I can see now why the Gen3/4 riders are generally so sedate and ask about brake pads, calipers, fluid and rotors so much. You guys have to use braking way, WAY more than I ever imagined.

I'll give it more time and miles but right now I'm seriously considering putting my old ECU back in. For people that use brakes instead of downshifting to higher rpm to utilize engine braking, absolutely do this mod. But I have the definite feeling that this "upgrade" ain't for me, it's a step backwards.

Yesterday was a good day on the FJR. Left early and turned a two hour trip into four hours of back roads. Watched the Daytona 200. Then rode a couple hours back.

Nice riding weather we are having but summer is coming.

Spooned on new RS3s yesterday with the help of a friend. Holy crap, were those puppies stiff!!!

I gotta get a tire machine....

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 9:38 am Spooned on new RS3s yesterday with the help of a friend.

You Sir, are a glutton for punishment!

Your friend is a candidate for sainthood.

JSNS

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 9:44 am

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 9:38 am Spooned on new RS3s yesterday with the help of a friend.

You Sir, are a glutton for punishment!

Your friend is a candidate for sainthood.

JSNS

I do not think it could be done with less than 4 hands, 2 knees, and 6 spoons/irons. The front was easier than the rear, but that ain't sayin much.

Lube is your friend? Holy shit - that lube was my bitch!!!!

It is amazing you spooned the tire on. Cycle Gear just down the road will mount them from little coin.

I pulled out my tire flat kit and went through it. Glue still liquid? Check. Sticky strings still pliable? Check. Pliers still in the kit? Where the heck did they go?

I also verified that the mice have yet again built a nest in the tail of my bike. A nice, big pink insulation nest. I assume there will be nuts in my air box because I didn't put a screen over it last fall; I know better...

ionbeam wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 12:44 pm I pulled out my tire flat kit and went through it. Glue still liquid? Check. Sticky strings still pliable? Check. Pliers still in the kit? Where the heck did they go?

I also verified that the mice have yet again built a nest in the tail of my bike. A nice, big pink insulation nest. I assume there will be nuts in my air box because I didn't put a screen over it last fall; I know better...

Might try a different riding posture if you've got nuts in your air box.

NTXFJR wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 1:15 pm

ionbeam wrote: ↑Sun Mar 14, 2021 12:44 pm ...I assume there will be nuts in my air box because I didn't put a screen over it last fall; I know better...

Might try a different riding posture if you've got nuts in your air box.

Better there than my wife's purse.

Yesterday, I rode it to the dealer for the brake switch and 2nd gear recalls.

I installed a Garauld stiffy kit, then I went for a ride..+7c..

Rode it to the Snake River on Thursday. Pavement going to the river was excellent and sand free!

Snake River and the good bit of pavement.

Painted my lower forks black. Much more stealthy and gained 2 hp.

Changed the engine oil, I used a blend of synthetic, conventional, hybrid mix ratio of the Motul, Amsoil, Rotella blend. This way I figure I can get every single acronym for the oil industry standard. #winningtheoilgame.

Or maybe I just used Mobil 1 10-30. You decide.

Final drive oil was changed also. My old stuff looked a little icky, so I flushed it out by adding some while turning the rear wheel. Let it sit some and then changed that. Seemed to clear up very well.


Added a heated gear lead for the passenger. The old one that was there before needed to be updated and rerouted.

Also fixed the right side mirror with Redfish’s help. The washers underneath were not tight enough. He called them “Belleville” washers and at some point they seem to have lost their stacking length causing the mirror to wobble a little. I reordered them and it worked like a charm. Now the mirror does not “bounce” over the perfectly paved Illinois roads. Lol


Next up will be ordering a rear tire for a covert mission over spring break. Might as well order a rear for the KLX250S while I am there. They do not last very long between the gravel, pavement, and rocks that I have been riding. I guess that is the payoff for running a barely legal DOT tire. Gonna change the oil in the 250 at 2,000 mile intervals given the higher revs and amount of dust it sees. Oh yeah, I want to Re-gear the KLX with the rear sprocket so I can quickly swap either a 13 or 14 tooth front depending on the riding planned. Rocky Mountain ATV is basically getting my stimulus check. Lol.