FJRiders.com

Ray, what would they do without you!

Oh I'm sure they'd figure it out eventually and I'm sure you and others would step up.... no worries!!

Nice writeup Ray. That, along with mcatrophy's excellent photos that Jasen linked should be all you need. The only thing I might add it to use some solvent along with a mild abrasive Scotchbrite pad to clean up the clutch steels.

Festus wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:55 pmThat does not look good. Replace it, but you can lightly sand it smooth, lube it up and try it again. That’s a lot of gouging on the OD.

I'd R&R it. Trying to "sand it" won't fix the wallowed out ID which causes slop in the clutch lever (and contributes to the kind of thing you explained with the lever not seating fully). Once swapped and moving forward, clean and lube it AT LEAST annually as part of your PM schedule. Don't overlook the other lever too.

Go get a new bushing at your local bike dealer... $7-10. Although yours doesn't appear too bad, minor wear is magnified in a lever situation.

This^^^

Bounce wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 1:07 pm

Festus wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:55 pmThat does not look good. Replace it, but you can lightly sand it smooth, lube it up and try it again. That’s a lot of gouging on the OD.

I'd R&R it. Trying to "sand it" won't fix the wallowed out ID which causes slop in the clutch lever (and contributes to the kind of thing you explained with the lever not seating fully). Once swapped and moving forward, clean and lube it AT LEAST annually as part of your PM schedule. Don't overlook the other lever too.

Go get a new bushing at your local bike dealer... $7-10. Although yours doesn't appear too bad, minor wear is magnified in a lever situation.

This^^^

Oh, I agree, the first thing I said was "Replace it" but cleaning up the OD and ID and lubing it up is going to tell you if it was the bushing hanging up that was causing it. If you do that and it still slips, then it's "probably" not the bushing. Judging by the marks on that bushing, I think it's almost certain that's the issue but we'll see.

On a different note, I don't see the bushing listed on the schematic on Partzilla.

Festus wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 1:28 pm
On a different note, I don't see the bushing listed on the schematic on Partzilla.

Part #4 on the Master Cylinder 2 fiche
. .Bush
3GM-26455-00-00 $7.97

https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oempa ... cylinder-2

Festus wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 1:28 pm ...On a different note, I don't see the bushing listed on the schematic on Partzilla.

Edit to note that FJRoss was posting while I was typing.

Item #4. The drawing is a clickable link.

Not sure how I missed that! Makes me think I need to get one just in case

bigjohnsd wrote:Ray, what would they do without you!

Put forks seals in the right way for starters...

Marty, that was just a vicious totally false rumour started by UNO Who. FUKM.
I'd replace the brass bushing, any Yammy, Honder, whatever, they're all the same, local bike shop should have one if they are any kind of a bike shop at all.

For what it's worth, if you find the the hole in the lever is buggered as well, I have an almost unused clutch lever from my '16 I'd be happy to give you.

Well, after doing the maintenance stated, it still is slipping. SOB.


Planning on getting into it later today or tomorrow. I have practice tonight but until 8 pm.

Quit f@$king around and get the clutch apart so you can check the friction disc thickness.

Agreed, if the old T6 is still on the plates, get at it. What's your depart date for Red Lodge?

Here's a couple photos from years ago.

It's in here



With that off, it looks like this...

Make DAMN sure you stuff a clean rag in that hole on the bottom right. That hole goes to moving engine parts. Get shit in there and you'll be in deep do do. The very center piece in that whole thing is a plunger that will come out. There's a rod that's running through the engine from the left side to the right, so when you squeeze the clutch on the left, it pushes that plunger on the right of the engine. There's a ball bearing in there, a single ball, and if you aren't careful, it'll fall out and you'll wonder where the hell it came from. Again, I could have this all wrong, this is from memory from 3-4 years ago.



The plates are all behind that brownish pressure plate. That's all under tension so when you take those 6 bolts loose, it will spring out if I remember correctly (it's been 3-4 years ago since I did this).

Pull them out one at a time and put them in order so you can reverse it when putting back together. You can take a paint pen or nail polish and mark a tab and then each piece so they go back exactly the same but I don't think it's necessary (someone correct me if I'm wrong). Don't use a Sharpie, it'll come off when you clean them.




There is a thin wire retainer that goes around the entire aluminum basket that holds that last set in place. Look close, you can see the thin wire that is up against that last plate. It's in a thin groove all the way around it. It's got a couple funky bends on each end that get stuffed into a hole to keep it in place. See the next photo for that.



Ends that stick into hole are in the center of this photo. They are the ends of the wire retainer that's wrapped around the aluminum piece, holding that last plate in. It can be a pain in the ass. It's not hard, it's just fiddly. Just be patient and don't force it or your screw it up and need a new one.




Hopefully that helps you understand that it's not as bad as you might think. If I did it, then most anyone can.

So help me God, if you post on here that something went down that hole, you WILL surpass me around here. There's been enough of us reminding you to cover the hole before you work.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:55 pm So help me God, if you post on here that something went down that hole, you WILL surpass me around here. There's been enough of us reminding you to cover the hole before you work.

Thanks for jinxing me!

Just got done with practice. Going home to work on it as soon as these kids get out of here.

Cav, just for reference, I did that clutch soak a few months after getting my bike. I had never taken a clutch apart and hadn’t owned a bike in about 30 years. I had no one local to help me. So with little to no knowledge and no experience, I did it. I put it back together and it didn’t work. Took it 1/2 apart again and put it back together and it worked!

In the one photo, if you look at the tab at 11:00, it’s got a paint mark on it. Just pay attention to the details and you’ll be fine. It’s not really a complex thing. You can do it.

Cav47 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 9:07 pm

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Tue Jun 16, 2020 8:55 pm So help me God, if you post on here that something went down that hole, you WILL surpass me around here. There's been enough of us reminding you to cover the hole before you work.

Thanks for jinxing me!

Just got done with practice. Going home to work on it as soon as these kids get out of here.

I'm just saying, if you felt it was a competition, and we know you are competitive, that if there was a sure fire way to get that hole named after you, this'd be it.

Every clutch tutorial from here to the end of the days will include "Don't forget to cover the Cav47 hole!"

Hole covered.


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