FJRiders.com

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 9:27 pm So just go nuts with the brakes, huh.

Okay. Be back in a jiffy.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 3:20 pm The Gen3's have brake light relays, that are supposed to (as I've read) not affect anything..... however, darn good point, what foreign wiring is on there and how did the f@$k it up (maybe didn't). Another relatively simple thing one could do if so inclined is take 12V directly to the ABS pump and see if it runs, least you'd know the thing will spin, and if it's not, then power ain't seemingly getting there.
Dust off yer passport Wheatie, Rayzerman's shop has an opening... don't make me come down there (would if I could)!

Mechanic alphabet: ACOBF (Always Check the Obvious and Basics First).

Chase down that auxiliary harness and make sure they didn't hamfist the factory harness.

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 5:35 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:24 am

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 am Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the test initiation device?

Do you have a small alligator clip patch cable or equivalent to use instead? Nearly anything will do. Last time I used a paper clip.

We checked the bike with two different devices, my factory device, and Griff's device...which has worked on his Gen 3. No ABS activation with either device.

The only way then to see if the test instrument is good is to try it again on a known good source, griff's bike. But also, the problem could lie in the wiring between the test connector and the ECU on your bike. Perhaps it is damaged? Or a cold solder joint in the connector itself on the bike? Something like that. You should make sure the wiring and all connections are intact. Jumping to the conclusion that the ABS Block is faulty without checking the intermediate steps to get there is going step A, B, ....., E. I'd start by ohming my test apparatus, then ohm the appropriate wires from the ABS test plug pins to the ECU.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 12:28 pm

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 5:35 pm ...But also, the problem could lie in the wiring between the test connector and the ECU on your bike...

Thanks Russ.

bungie4 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 2:47 pm Remember when you were a kid, you'd peddle your ass off to get some speed up, then slam the pedals backwards to purposely lock up the brakes and leave long lurid skid marks and drift to stop sideways.

Hell, my buddies and I would pull wheelies on our bikes and then lock up the front wheel to keep it from spinning during the wheelie. We were cool.

... so, not having ABS is a problem?

bungie4 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 5:26 pm Just having fun bud.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 6:07 pm

bungie4 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 5:26 pm Just having fun bud.

I know. For you this is something to think about on the neenernet. For me, it's a bike issue...

1911 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 09, 2019 8:35 pm Bring the bike and the book down to the farm in the morning and we’ll see if we can figure out what you overeducated engineer types have fubarred

bungie4 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 14, 2019 7:24 pm Actually, i need to thank you for percolating testing my ABS up to the front of the couple of brain cells that are still vibrating. I haven't done it in ages.

bungie4 wrote: ↑Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:20 pm Thats the weird bit with mine. I stand on the rear brake, I cannot lock it up, but I feel no pulses. Maybe I just have shitty brakes

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Fri Aug 16, 2019 1:43 pm Just tried HUD's method with the front brake. Anyone have cerulean silver side plastics I can get from you?