FJRiders.com

FJRoss wrote: ↑Thu Nov 30, 2023 10:10 am

Bounce wrote: ↑Thu Nov 30, 2023 9:57 am I've burned through some covers on some aux lights by not removing them.

On LEDs? The amber lenses on my Glendas barely get warm...
I can see a tinted lens (or opaque cover) on an incandescent light could get toasty.

I rarely take the yellow covers off the Darlas. Absolutely no signs of any issues after 4 years.

HID and incandescent.

Bounce wrote: ↑Fri Dec 01, 2023 11:07 am HID and incandescent.

Yes, those get a bit toasty!

The only down side of LED’s are they do not get hot enough to melt the snow sticking to the lights. Makes even harder to see the road in a snowstorm as I found out last year on my after dark return from SFO last year. Almost missed my driveway at 25 mph. YRMV


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Bugnatr wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2023 11:41 am The only down side of LED’s are they do not get hot enough to melt the snow sticking to the lights. Makes even harder to see the road in a snowstorm as I found out last year on my after dark return from SFO last year. Almost missed my driveway at 25 mph. YRMV

Having been to your place...it was tough to find your driveway without any snow on the headlights.

The R1300 GS has a 3-axis ECU/IMU controlled headlight which steers the low beam around corners as well as adjusting the low beam during braking dive.

Bob, the Ruby Moto lights I posted a link to are a complete package including mounts for the GS, and yellow lens covers for daytime visibility, they work great with my HexEZCan CANBUS Interface, you will want a HEX EZCan to install other electric farkles too, allows a total of 30 AMPS spread over four circuits. Mine Powers my Radar Detector, My Aux Horn, My Rubymoto Lights, and I have a spare circuit that I will use for an LED CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stoplight) on my Top Box this winter. The HexEZCan enables the LED to function as a second tail light until the IMU detects the bike slowing then it burns brighter as an auxiliary brake light.

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Wed Dec 06, 2023 11:42 pm https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/how- ... s.1652091/

Interesting…so my uneducated choice of Darlas wasn’t a bad choice..a position on the lower crash bars is reasonable as it provides for a balance between being seen, and seeing.
I contacted Clearwater about a week ago regarding a Darla package for the 1300 - they replied that they would have a package soon.
Lot’s of decisions, and luckily lot’s of time to make those decisions..

My opinion and experience of seeing how other bikes are visible....... I agree yellow is the best for being conspicuous to others, and they don't have to be really bright, 10-15 watts is plenty. This also does not overwhelm your signal lights' visibility to others (although I also upgrade them to LED bulbs if they are incandescent). As well, your bike may or may not have signals also operating as running lights, that only helps if they do.

As for having lights that are dimmable, I'd think the decision is based on whether you do any riding at night, or if the OEM's are LED and bright enough for that, or if you convert halogen to brighter LED's..... you won't need additional lighting at night. Note too, the experts say your eye better sees deer if the colour temperature of the lights is 4500-5500k rather than the brighter blue/white 6000k or higher. OTOH, a super bright white in the blinding to others category will accomplish the same thing.

I do not see the need to spend the big bucks on Clearwaters at all, but hey, we won't argue they are good. I say get some good budget lamps, and wire them into an auxiliary fuse box with a switch you can mount somewhere, but leave them switched on so they come on as soon as you turn the ignition key..... spend the big bucks on your seat, windshield or suspension upgrades...... that's just me.

Meanwhile, I have a fog light/white light set on the last three bikes and have (crash bar) mounted same on two Tracer GT's and an FJR. These are yellow wide flat beam on low, and white wide beam on high, but you would not consider them much additional lighting at night, actually I found them better if I left them on low beam yellow at night, they just fill in somewhat in front of you. Cost me C$20 a set and $6 for a dual mode switch, AliExpress. I get comments on them all the time at how visible I am. The lights themselves are small, ~1.5" diameter, and have cooling fans... first set I put on was over 2 years ago, still going strong.

Headlight aim is also important for visibility.... too low and your headlights aren't all that visible to oncoming traffic... halogens bad for this, but some LED's also..... best way to adjust headlights is have someone ride your bike behind you at various distances and adjust the headlight up enough so that the low beam is bright in the reflector, but not blinding to oncoming...... stop, tweak, ride again, tweak... done. Ask others if you are easily visible in their mirrors when you're 500 feet back........

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2023 12:58 pm
Meanwhile, I have a fog light/white light set on the last three bikes and have (crash bar) mounted same on two Tracer GT's and an FJR. These are yellow wide flat beam on low, and white wide beam on high, but you would not consider them much additional lighting at night, actually I found them better if I left them on low beam yellow at night, they just fill in somewhat in front of you. Cost me C$20 a set and $6 for a dual mode switch, AliExpress. I get comments on them all the time at how visible I am. The lights themselves are small, ~1.5" diameter, and have cooling fans... first set I put on was over 2 years ago, still going strong.

Do you have a link to these? Are they dimmable - a lot of suppliers don't say? I have seen a few LED sets (Ali/eBay and Amazon) that have different modes with yellow, white (or combined) settable by switch. (even flashing!) Dimmable isn't a big deal for lower power conspicuity lighting, but might be a good idea for brighter lights that are serving a dual role - additional down-the-road lumens plus being seen under a variety of ambient lighting conditions. I agree that proper aiming is critical! Also, make sure they aren't placed where they will "wash-out" your front signal lights.

Bob, this guy does a pretty good job of explaining lights on the 1250, the 1300 is very similar in operation.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2023 1:11 pm

raYzerman wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2023 12:58 pm
Meanwhile, I have a fog light/white light set on the last three bikes and have (crash bar) mounted same on two Tracer GT's and an FJR. These are yellow wide flat beam on low, and white wide beam on high, but you would not consider them much additional lighting at night, actually I found them better if I left them on low beam yellow at night, they just fill in somewhat in front of you. Cost me C$20 a set and $6 for a dual mode switch, AliExpress. I get comments on them all the time at how visible I am. The lights themselves are small, ~1.5" diameter, and have cooling fans... first set I put on was over 2 years ago, still going strong.

Do you have a link to these? Are they dimmable - a lot of suppliers don't say? I have seen a few LED sets (Ali/eBay and Amazon) that have different modes with yellow, white (or combined) settable by switch. (even flashing!) Dimmable isn't a big deal for lower power conspicuity lighting, but might be a good idea for brighter lights that are serving a dual role - additional down-the-road lumens plus being seen under a variety of ambient lighting conditions. I agree that proper aiming is critical! Also, make sure they aren't placed where they will "wash-out" your front signal lights.

These are not dimmable and don't need to be since I'd say they are about a 15W light as compared to others. Yellow wide beam properly aimed is "low". The white light is aimed higher (we'll call it high beam) when you switch to it, but these aren't going to light up the world either. Don't get the combo "both", too many reports of not working properly, you cycle through by powering on-off-on, but how would you know what beam you're on unless you get off the bike and look.... keep it simple.... I'd be happy with the yellow low wide beam fog only.

These are the exact ones I got. Have to be mounted in the proper orientation, cannot rotate sideways.. get the ones with 3 wires (not 2).

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003 ... 1802V6kMCD

Switch ..... several types and mount types, but I'm using these as handlebar mount. On another bike I just put a on-off-on toggle switch in an out of the way place on a fairing inner panel. You'll have to draw yourself a circuit diagram for all the connections as you build your own harness....

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004 ... 1802V6kMCD

Thanks for the link. I agree that a 15W light shouldn't need a dimmer as long as it is reasonably aimed.
Not sure about mounting - I would want to place them fairly low and attached to the crash bars.
The switches look good for the price.

FJRoss wrote: ↑Thu Dec 07, 2023 2:47 pm Thanks for the link. I agree that a 15W light shouldn't need a dimmer as long as it is reasonably aimed.
Not sure about mounting - I would want to place them fairly low and attached to the crash bars.
The switches look good for the price.

YOu may need another clamp to mount, depends... the four sets I mounted were quite low and on the crash bars, inboard enough an protected so they don't get damaged in a tip over. I will have to get some pics......

I have Darla's on the forks of the 14 GS. They were on the bike when I bought it. I put Krista/Erica hybrid set on the 21 GS, mounted below beak. Can't say enough about Clearwater's plug and play setup for the GS. Easy to install, configurable with the wonder wheel and turn signal button. They aren't cheap, but, damn, they are really bright and well built. I just installed Darla's on my 15 FJR ES. What a total PITA that install was. Posi-taps into bike relay and difficult to access. Much slicker on the Canbus equipped bikes. Clearwater integration to the BMW's is head and shoulders above the competition, but you pay for that.

I try to avoid riding at night so I feel I don't need the the big lights to light up the night, yet I want to be seen a little more during the day. I wanted to go with low profile so I went with these in white. They aren't expensive, double sided tape them in place (included), plug and play into a fuse block and you are in business. I did add some tie wraps as a precaution and are attached to my Canyon Cages. I went with the six LED stripes (about 3 inches long) and have been told by a few people they attract some attention/bright. I spent less than $30, if I didn't like them I wasn't out much........three years later they are still on and none of the LEDs have failed. Last year I bought a pair of 3 LED strips in yellow, attached them to my Canyon Cages pointing to the sides.

https://www.customdynamics.com/magicfle ... AndFitment

I'm all for adding lights to be seen when the sun is up and see at night better but please be smart/considerit about the lights added. Couple years ago I was at a stop light at 4pm in the afternoon and blue sky. There was a bike coming toward me and was LOADED with extra LEDs, after he passed I was seeing spots and wondering if it was a motorcycle or locamotive that just passed.

I have had the same thing and couldn't identify as a motorcycle at first. Two sets of large aux lights plus headlights on high. Locomotive was a good description. No need for that during the day, and was endangering himself as well. No way anyone was seeing signals, not to mention others being blinded. Check local laws, most places don't allow more than 4 main lights on at once. On cars, e.g., fog lights must switch off when you go to high beam if you have 4 headlights.

Well,
Having two close friends, that you know, have vehicles turn in front of them...one of them dying, the other in the hospital with multiple broken bones...I'm not in any way against my friends looking like a fkn freight train if they want to.

I don't have aux lights, but if there are no cars driving in front of me ( and there usually aren't ), I have my brights on. In the twisty mountain roads, I cannot count the number of times, a pickemup truck or a car has been in a couple feet of my lane and instantly jerked the truck/car back onto their side of the road. Saved my bacon a few times...so fk em.

Agree with you if you have no aux. lights. Amber ones recommended. If you're not being seen, you may benefit from re-aiming your headlights as they may be too low. Just look at all the bikes coming toward you and in your mirrors to see the variety out there. As for the freight trains, or even with high beams, others cannot judge distance to you as well as low beams, so may think the freight train is further away, thus think they can do their left turn in time. Doesn't really matter anyway, everyone should be extra cautious at any intersection.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Dec 10, 2023 9:21 am Agree with you if you have no aux. lights. Amber ones recommended. If you're not being seen, you may benefit from re-aiming your headlights as they may be too low. Just look at all the bikes coming toward you and in your mirrors to see the variety out there. As for the freight trains, or even with high beams, others cannot judge distance to you as well as low beams, so may think the freight train is further away, thus think they can do their left turn in time. Doesn't really matter anyway, everyone should be extra cautious at any intersection.

Yeah, I just don't get the guys who think they are safer running high beams plus high power (and mis-aimed) auxiliary lights in daytime (high beams are bad enough). As Ray said, it is harder to judge their distance. Not to mention the fact that the lights dazzle the oncoming drivers and they have no hope in being able to see if you are signalling a turn since signal lights are washed out. Drivers spend more time trying to figure out WHAT you are than WHERE you are. We won't even get into the notion that it is a BAD idea to piss off the guy who is a much better position to hurt you than you are to hurt him.

The worst that I see around here are the Harley guys running aftermarket LED headlights on high beam in OEM buckets that were never designed for them. My usual response is a quick stab at my horn button which brings my Ericas from minimum to full - for just a fraction of a second. Most get the idea.

Anyone want to discuss headlight modulators?