FJRiders.com

Any test loads yet Pants?

Wayne is oh so right!

This ramp https://www.harborfreight.com/super-wid ... 90018.html will pay for itself in just a few trips after you remove the tall ramp your trailer comes with.

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 11:19 am Wayne is oh so right!

This ramp https://www.harborfreight.com/super-wid ... 90018.html will pay for itself in just a few trips after you remove the tall ramp your trailer comes with.

I have an aluminum ramp that I could use in place of the one that's on the trailer. If I go the "DR650 diagonally in the truck bed" route, I'll have to bring it anyway.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Fri Jun 23, 2023 10:03 am Any test loads yet Pants?

Not yet. Yesterday, I checked out the tires, light wiring harness, bearings, etc. All good (surprisingly). I also shopped some of the used wheel chocks that Josh pointed out earlier in this thread. I tried to low ball a few of them, but nobody took the bait. No worries - plan A (2x4s) is still viable. I have loads of good wood just for this type of project. Today, I rode the FJR (more fun than trailering - I already know this).

Eye bolts and straps are due in today (Amazon). The weekend is somewhat busy. On Monday, I'll start fabricating and see what it yields.

Hppants wrote: ↑Thu Jun 22, 2023 6:55 pm that is one fine trailer. That is NOT what I'm working with, unfortunately.

Thanks! Bought it used and have towed dirtbikes on it from Alabama to Missouri, South Carolina, Louisiana, Indiana, Pennsylvania, and points in between. It probably has 20,000 miles. At first people scoffed saying, "I can't believe you paid $1200 for a dirtbike trailer." Then over the years it changed to, "Where can I get one? Can I borrow yours?" Last I looked they were $3800 new. For laughs I stopped last week at a local trailer fabricator and inquired about a 5x8 trailer for the lawn mower: $1300. Couple days later ordered a monster folding 44" wide x 7' "ATV" ramp. Heavy but I'll never make apologies for having a 1500 pound rated aluminum ramp. Have hauled a ZTR on the Kendon but the caster front wheels are too unpredictable using 2 single track ramps. Is fine once on the trailer but getting it on/off begging for trouble.



The innocent FJR pic a couple posts above was taken 30 miles before this happened. That is when I found I didn't have the right sized lug wrench. So the red FJR went to get a lug wrench. A mistake I will not repeat.







One tire failed I didn't trust the others, spare tire already being used so I didn't have another spare, exhausted, stressed, and no one seemed to have 13" trailer tires without wheels for less than $150 each that ended our trip to SFO on October 17, 2016.

In retrospect I should have put 13" car tires on it.

That's a good point on the lug wrench right there. I'll need to check and rectify that.

I've got the two bike kendon with the third chock installed in the middle to make it either two FJR's or three dirt bikes. Sadly, I had to wait a while to get the third chock from Kendon and about the time I got it, my wife medically could no longer ride anymore, so we are back to hauling two bikes from time to time, when we have time and the weather gods smile on us.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 12:30 am That's a good point on the lug wrench right there. I'll need to check and rectify that.

I've got the two bike kendon with the third chock installed in the middle to make it either two FJR's or three dirt bikes. Sadly, I had to wait a while to get the third chock from Kendon and about the time I got it, my wife medically could no longer ride anymore, so we are back to hauling two bikes from time to time, when we have time and the weather gods smile on us.

I have trailered 3 dirtbikes, didn't bother with the middle wheel chock or rail, just stuffed it in there and tied it down between the other two, a bit forward.

If ever I haul (2) FJRs again I'm going to move one or both back. Two FJRs was too much tongue weight on the Subaru.

Wrt: trailer tires (Rv tires)

They are almost exclusively made in China and have a well earned reputation for failing. When it comes time for tires on your rig. Replace with properly rated car/truck tires. Not 'trailer' tires.

Two significant things will kill trailer tires... always parked in the sun, so look for cracking, etc. and tire pressures too low. Most will say run at 50 psi (anything over 45 is good), and they won't heat up. Check tires aren't hot when you stop for fuel, including your tow vehicle.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sat Jun 24, 2023 7:58 am Two significant things will kill trailer tires... always parked in the sun, so look for cracking, etc. and tire pressures too low. Most will say run at 50 psi (anything over 45 is good), and they won't heat up. Check tires aren't hot when you stop for fuel, including your tow vehicle.

All 3 of my tires had 50 PSI the night before and several years of history of holding air reasonably.

The tire that failed was the one which got the most sun when parked. I currently put cheap Harbor Freight burlap wheel covers over the tires when not in use.

The "trailer part", I got. Decades of towing, dunking boats in saltwater - trust me, I've seen just about everything. The tires on this trailer are fit for duty. The spare is brand new - covered with tits on the tread.

There is very little tongue on this trailer. 60 mph will be plenty with this rig. No point in the tail wagging the dog. I hope the FJR provides enough tongue weight or I'm going to be moving ballast that way for sure. The truck tailgate has to be lifted or bad things are going to happen.

I have a question regarding the (possibility of the) D/S in the back of the truck diagonally: I presume that I jam the front wheel all the way into one of the corners? Do I (attempt to) hold the handlebars straight and let the back of the bike fall where it may? Do I jam the rear wheel against the tailgate, which should end up with the bike somewhat shoved toward one side of the bed? The "triangulation" of the straps will be significantly different - any tips?

The more I look at that 5 foot trailer, the more I think that only the FJR is going to be trailered. Monday will tell the tale.

I jam a wheel in the corner, then pull the back tire against the opposite side of the bed of the truck, that will stop most rolling forward and backward. Tie down to the other two corners to hold it upright and I also put one tie down going from somewhere on the bike to the tie down where the front tire is jammed to pull it forward. That's been the best solution I've found to keep the tailgate up especially when I have ramps, gear bags, gas cans and other stuff in the bed of the truck with the bike.

Well - this went better than expected. Those with experience (and those without) - please chime in on any suggestions/critiques you may have. Don't be shy. I have a couple of questions at the end as well.

First, I built my own wheel chocks:



The angled piece of one by material is screwed into the base on both sides and it rest firmly against a flat side of the angle iron for the trailer rail.

Both bikes fit on the trailer - it's tight, but it works. The tallness of the DR, along with its different rake allow it to miss any point on the FJR, on any plane of view.



My biggest concern was getting enough "triangulation" on the front straps. I call Jasengixxer, who I knew had experience in these matters. He suggested that I build some "outriggers" to give me more angle. Ingenious. These are on the underside (the strap pulls them toward the trailer), and are bolted through and through.



I was challenged on the rear, particularly with the FJR, trying to find a way to run the straps such that it would be effective and not cause any undue rubbing/chaffing. I settled on running the straps inside the exhaust cans. There is a piece of flat metal where the cans are braised/soldered onto their mounting bracket. The strap runs right over that, so on "go day", I'm going to cover that with some duct tape to act as a sacrificial rub surface.

As you can see, the strap is run considerably behind the bike, but there is not much angle. An outrigger on the back is not going to help as the fender is in the way. When I crank down on the rear straps, the whole bike tightens up considerably.



I bought these velcro loop straps to hold the rachet strap "tails" - works pretty good.



And now for a few questions. First, take a look at the eye bolts in this picture:



I mounted all of the 90 degrees to the length of the trailer. But I think it might be better to turn them parrallel to the direction that the strap they support runs. What do you think?

Next - all tie down points have a "soft loop" that I use and connect the strap to. One way to use the soft loops is to run it (the soft loop) inside itself and then use only ONE "loop" to connect the strap. Like this:



I prefer to just run the soft loop around the anchor point, and then run the strap through TWO loops, like this:



Which is better and why?

Along that same vein, for the rachet strap,I see two choices. First, you can put the hook directly into the soft loop (one loop or two) - like this:



Or you can run the rachet strap up to the soft loop(s), and then back down to the eye bolt (my preference), like this:



No picture for this, but after I got the front of the FJR cinched down to my comfort, I released it and measured the compression of the forks - about 1 3/8". I know many here have advocated no more than 1", but honestly, that felt a bit loose. I can't imagine blowing a fork seal - but what say you?

Finally, in which direction should the "s-hooks" be run? In the "towing" world, the end of the "S" needs to be pointing backward. If something hits it, it won't be so likely to get "unhooked". For the rachet straps, if something hits the S-hook hard enough to dislodge it, I must be upside down. Is it that important?

I took a 20 mile test run through some bumpy local roads, and a short stint on a highway at my expected towing speed to Georgia. I stopped 3 times to check straps. On the first stop, I had to tighten the rear straps on the FJR. After that, those puppies were rock solid. I could pull on the handlebars hard as I want with no problem. This trailer tows very well, for having such a short tongue. The 8 ply tires are rated at 80 psi cold. I started at 50 psi and that seems to be the right compromise between needed air pressure and ride. After 10 miles at 63 mph, they were no warmer than the pavement.

Stay thirsty, my friends....

The man is retired but the habit of over worrying will never stop.

Looking good sir. Your "Worry" about the straps is when you hit a bump and things bounce and the straps slacken. Run a bungee cord between the o rings in the hooks to keep tension on the strap or use the rings I showed above and that won't happen. It likely won't happen anyway but a big bump could do it, it's happened to others. Otherwise, looks pretty solid to me.

I like the velcro straps to hold the loose ends, I've always used zip ties, but that's a pain. I'll be picking some of those up to go in my tie down kit.

I don't think you can "blow a fork seal" on forks in good condition. Cinch the bikes down to where you can stand on one foot peg without too much movement. Standing on a footpeg simulates the shaking and motion on the road.

I don't bother with the soft straps, I loop the tie strap over the lower fork bridge and back down. That said, my tie straps have a soft loop affixed to the tie strap. A short section sewed to the tie strap that I can place over the bike frame whatever and then put the hook in the soft pigtail's loop.

You put your soft strap through itself, then hooked on one of the soft strap loops. That loop is carrying the full load. Had you placed the strap over the fork bridge then put the hook through both soft strap loops each loop would be carrying half load. But as mentioned above on FJR I bypass this step and just put the big tie strap over the fork bridge and back down to the eyehook on the trailer. In no small part because the distance from FJR fork bridge to trailer is short enough I stand to use all the free strap between hooks and the ratchet/clamp. There is a limit as to how short one can secure the strap so by routing it up over the fork bridge and back down I have plenty of adjustment. I use the soft strap pigtail on my dirtbikes.

Don't change a thing, tow, ride, relax!-

Be cautious with the rear straps on the FJR. It is easy to bend the mounts for the side cases.

The most important thing you need to do after strapping it down is say "That's not going anywhere!" while trying to shake the handlebars a little bit.

DesignFlaw06 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:27 am Be cautious with the rear straps on the FJR. It is easy to bend the mounts for the side cases.

The most important thing you need to do after strapping it down is say "That's not going anywhere!" while trying to shake the handlebars a little bit.

You are referring to the black rectangular "cubes", and not the rear peg assy, correct?

I saw that - and changed the position of the soft loops on the rear sets to avoid pulling on that cube. Thanks.

The more I think about it, the more I think I'll rotate the eye bolts in line with the straps. I mean, that is how the eyebolt wants to go - might as well tighten it down in that position.

Also - I think I'm going to put some Painter's Tape on my upper fork tubes where the soft loops/straps touch them. That is a finished surface and even though it's underneath the fairing, Pants is just Anal enough ....

Hppants wrote: ↑Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:30 am The more I think about it, the more I think I'll rotate the eye bolts in line with the straps. I mean, that is how the eyebolt wants to go - might as well tighten it down in that position.

I wouldn't worry about the direction. Physics on that eye bolt aren't going to change if you rotate them 90 degrees.

Festus wrote: ↑Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:33 am

Hppants wrote: ↑Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:30 am The more I think about it, the more I think I'll rotate the eye bolts in line with the straps. I mean, that is how the eyebolt wants to go - might as well tighten it down in that position.

I wouldn't worry about the direction. Physics on that eye bolt aren't going to change if you rotate them 90 degrees.

Which reminds me: the straps need a bit of a twist. If they are real short then the twist isn't important but a dirtbike is taller than FJR, the strap is longer and more exposed to the wind. If the strap is flat without a twist it will "fly" in the wind. Resonate. Flap. But put a half twist in it and it will not. With a half twist not enough of the strap is at the right angle to fly in the wind. And there is always the business of not knowing what angle is going to fly in the wind.

So if your eyebolts are "not optimal" it just might be better than optimal.

Hppants wrote: ↑Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:30 am

DesignFlaw06 wrote: ↑Tue Jun 27, 2023 11:27 am Be cautious with the rear straps on the FJR. It is easy to bend the mounts for the side cases.

The most important thing you need to do after strapping it down is say "That's not going anywhere!" while trying to shake the handlebars a little bit.

You are referring to the black rectangular "cubes", and not the rear peg assy, correct?

I saw that - and changed the position of the soft loops on the rear sets to avoid pulling on that cube. Thanks.

The more I think about it, the more I think I'll rotate the eye bolts in line with the straps. I mean, that is how the eyebolt wants to go - might as well tighten it down in that position.

Also - I think I'm going to put some Painter's Tape on my upper fork tubes where the soft loops/straps touch them. That is a finished surface and even though it's underneath the fairing, Pants is just Anal enough ....

Actually the rear peg assembly is what I'm referring to. It's a convenient place to tie off from, but we noticed more flex on that piece than I was comfortable with. But I was also going out further sideways than you are in your photo. You might not notice it is bent with the rear peg, but when you go to put the bag on, it might not fit right anymore. You'll probably be fine with the way you have it, but I would just keep an eye on it while you're ratcheting down to see if it is flexing/bending at all.

Upon further inspection of your photo, the rear straps are touching the exhaust. Those will bend as you tighten them down also and wear the finish off the chrome in no time. You need to go back further and not as wide.