FJRiders.com

blind squirrel wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:40 pm

ionbeam wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2019 5:19 pm Unless someone used antifreeze and water to flush the brake circuit I can't imagine that the metering block has gone bad on an '013.

I can see a 5-6 year old bike that has not had the fluid changed and the ABS not periodically cycled having a frozen ABS block, regardless of the generation of the bike.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:21 am Note added..... did you check the fuses in the regular fuse panel, i.e., fuses 1, 2, 11 in the owner's manual P. 7-33..... just a thought.

Intech wrote: ↑Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:44 pm Ray and I changed out an ABS module on a Gen II. It is a pain getting the air bled out of it. I hope you saved the stock bleeders as it is impossible to bleed the ABS block with speed bleeders. Thankfully I had my old ones. We swapped them out and everything bled. Just throwing that out there if you have to change the ABS module.

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 am Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the test initiation device?

Do you have a small alligator clip patch cable or equivalent to use instead? Nearly anything will do. Last time I used a paper clip.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:24 am

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 am Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the test initiation device?

Do you have a small alligator clip patch cable or equivalent to use instead? Nearly anything will do. Last time I used a paper clip.

We checked the bike with two different devices, my factory device, and Griff's device...which has worked on his Gen 3. No ABS activation with either device.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 11:08 am

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:24 am

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 am Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the test initiation device?

Do you have a small alligator clip patch cable or equivalent to use instead? Nearly anything will do. Last time I used a paper clip.

We checked the bike with two different devices, my factory device, and Griff's device...which has worked on his Gen 3. No ABS activation with either device.

Can you contact the seller and see if he did anything to disable the ABS. Just saying

After all, ABS is dangerous and it implies that you don't know how to ride well and invalidates your Man Card.

Do you still have fault ABS_ 25?

ionbeam wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 11:41 am Wheaties, the next time you access the ABS Diagnostic plug, put a volt meter between the Blue/Red and Blue/Black wire. You should read +5 VDC (or close to that). When you jumper the B/R wire to the B/Bl you are shorting the B/R wire to ground. This is a software trick that the ECU reads as switching from a logic 1 to a logic 0 and causes the ECU to enter the Diagnostic mode. The B/R wire Tees in the harness and goes to the ABS ECU also and tells the ABS ECU to go into the diagnostic mode too. If either the +5 volts or the ground is missing neither ECU will go into the diagnostic mode.

If you still have a fault ABS_25 you will need to fix that and it should allow your ABS to work again. If it was a wiring problem between the ABS ECU and the front wheel sensor you would get a different fault code (ABS_15) so if you are getting ABS_25 it's the sensor itself or the ABS ring on the wheel.

silverback wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 1:34 pm So...I know something about that bike that others don't.

The previous owner had a harness installed to run the brake and turn lights in the Givi top case.

What do you want to bet the wire running those is the wire that SHOULD tell the ABS module the brake light circuit is active.

Mechanic alphabet: ACOBF (Always Check the Obvious and Basics First).

Chase down that auxiliary harness and make sure they didn't hamfist the factory harness.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

raYzerman wrote:The Gen3's have brake light relays, that are supposed to (as I've read) not affect anything..... however, darn good point, what foreign wiring is on there and how did the f@$k it up (maybe didn't). Another relatively simple thing one could do if so inclined is take 12V directly to the ABS pump and see if it runs, least you'd know the thing will spin, and if it's not, then power ain't seemingly getting there.
Dust off yer passport Wheatie, Rayzerman's shop has an opening... don't make me come down there (would if I could)!

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:24 am

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 am Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the test initiation device?

Do you have a small alligator clip patch cable or equivalent to use instead? Nearly anything will do. Last time I used a paper clip.

We checked the bike with two different devices, my factory device, and Griff's device...which has worked on his Gen 3. No ABS activation with either device.

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 5:35 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:24 am

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:18 am Do you have an ohmmeter to check the continuity of the test initiation device?

Do you have a small alligator clip patch cable or equivalent to use instead? Nearly anything will do. Last time I used a paper clip.

We checked the bike with two different devices, my factory device, and Griff's device...which has worked on his Gen 3. No ABS activation with either device.

The only way then to see if the test instrument is good is to try it again on a known good source, griff's bike. But also, the problem could lie in the wiring between the test connector and the ECU on your bike. Perhaps it is damaged? Or a cold solder joint in the connector itself on the bike? Something like that. You should make sure the wiring and all connections are intact. Jumping to the conclusion that the ABS Block is faulty without checking the intermediate steps to get there is going step A, B, ....., E. I'd start by ohming my test apparatus, then ohm the appropriate wires from the ABS test plug pins to the ECU.

wheatonFJR wrote:

rbentnail wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 5:35 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Aug 12, 2019 10:24 am We checked the bike with two different devices, my factory device, and Griff's device...which has worked on his Gen 3. No ABS activation with either device.

The only way then to see if the test instrument is good is to try it again on a known good source, griff's bike. But also, the problem could lie in the wiring between the test connector and the ECU on your bike. Perhaps it is damaged? Or a cold solder joint in the connector itself on the bike? Something like that. You should make sure the wiring and all connections are intact. Jumping to the conclusion that the ABS Block is faulty without checking the intermediate steps to get there is going step A, B, ....., E. I'd start by ohming my test apparatus, then ohm the appropriate wires from the ABS test plug pins to the ECU.

We've used Griff's device on my previous 13. It facilitated the actuation of the ABS quite nicely. Have no issues with it.