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silverback wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:02 pm Torque angle method is to stretch the bolts passed their yield point and exceed the elastic region of the stress strain curve (I can explain that if you need, in a very long, dry presentation with several thousand big, boring words).

I think we just found next year's SFO entertainment. This is gonna be WAY better than those two singing guys.

silverback wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:02 pm You did get new bolts for the torque to yield locations, didn't you?

Absolutely! Thanks for the explanation. All of them were torqued as per the manual (twice, then with the angle thingy).

Festus wrote:

silverback wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:02 pm You did get new bolts for the torque to yield locations, didn't you?

Absolutely! Thanks for the explanation. All of them were torqued as per the manual (twice, then with the angle thingy).

Its always nice when they do multiples of 60° because you can just use the hex of the bolt head.

Some of those foreign makes, like Dodge and Chrysler, used to do 45ft-lb plus 87.5°. Another good reason to stick with a good American Yamaha...?

silverback wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:02 pm Torque angle method is to stretch the bolts passed their yield point and exceed the elastic region of the stress strain curve (I can explain that if you need, in a very long, dry presentation with several thousand big, boring words).

By doing this, it takes thread friction out of the clamping force. Since threads have tolerances too, the amount of friction can vary substantially, which, in turn, varies how much clamp down force each bolt has. More thread friction, at a given torque gives less clamp down force.

So, you torque to the point the bolt starts to stretch. Most torque to yield bolts have a machined neck in them which is a tight tolerance diameter. So, now the clamp down force becomes a function of yield stress in the material and that, with a constant diameter, is very consistent.

Its like bending a bar. When its still in the springy stage, the force to change it's shape changes a lot, but when it finally bends, it is a nice constant force to keep bending it, until it breaks. Thats what happens with the bolts.

So...the moral of the story is that those are a one time use item.

You did get new bolts for the torque to yield locations, didn't you?

Poor Silverback. It must be lonely not having a girlfriend!

HotRodZilla wrote:

silverback wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:02 pm Torque angle method is to stretch the bolts passed their yield point and exceed the elastic region of the stress strain curve (I can explain that if you need, in a very long, dry presentation with several thousand big, boring words).

By doing this, it takes thread friction out of the clamping force. Since threads have tolerances too, the amount of friction can vary substantially, which, in turn, varies how much clamp down force each bolt has. More thread friction, at a given torque gives less clamp down force.

So, you torque to the point the bolt starts to stretch. Most torque to yield bolts have a machined neck in them which is a tight tolerance diameter. So, now the clamp down force becomes a function of yield stress in the material and that, with a constant diameter, is very consistent.

Its like bending a bar. When its still in the springy stage, the force to change it's shape changes a lot, but when it finally bends, it is a nice constant force to keep bending it, until it breaks. Thats what happens with the bolts.

So...the moral of the story is that those are a one time use item.

You did get new bolts for the torque to yield locations, didn't you?

Poor Silverback. It must be lonely not having a girlfriend!

Oh, I have a girlfriend. She just doesn't listen to me.

Kinda like you lot!

silverback wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 9:49 pm

HotRodZilla wrote:

silverback wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2018 2:02 pm Torque angle method is to stretch the bolts passed their yield point and exceed the elastic region of the stress strain curve (I can explain that if you need, in a very long, dry presentation with several thousand big, boring words).

By doing this, it takes thread friction out of the clamping force. Since threads have tolerances too, the amount of friction can vary substantially, which, in turn, varies how much clamp down force each bolt has. More thread friction, at a given torque gives less clamp down force.

So, you torque to the point the bolt starts to stretch. Most torque to yield bolts have a machined neck in them which is a tight tolerance diameter. So, now the clamp down force becomes a function of yield stress in the material and that, with a constant diameter, is very consistent.

Its like bending a bar. When its still in the springy stage, the force to change it's shape changes a lot, but when it finally bends, it is a nice constant force to keep bending it, until it breaks. Thats what happens with the bolts.

So...the moral of the story is that those are a one time use item.

You did get new bolts for the torque to yield locations, didn't you?

Poor Silverback. It must be lonely not having a girlfriend!

...

Kinda like you lot!

Mr. Silverback, expressing his feelings for AJ on the open forum. That's so olympic figureskaterish of you.

EDIT: So when is a likely date for the possible beginnings of Jolene's running around with a second man?

HotRodZilla wrote: ↑Sat Feb 24, 2018 5:31 pm Poor Silverback. It must be lonely not having a girlfriend!

Hey, dork - just you remember that in Revenge Of The Nerds, in the end, the nerds get the goylz.

JSNS

Revenge of the Nerds.

The 812th best movie of 1984.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2018 1:36 pmSo when is a likely date for the possible beginnings of Jolene's running around with a second man?

Not sure. Worked 14 hour days over the weekend. Hopefully catching up enough to spend some time with her. Hope to get time with her in the evenings this week and putting the engine back in this weekend.

Hell YEAH!!!!!!!!!!!! Had enough work and called it a day at 3:30 today. Jolene needs me....wait.....I needed me some Jolene That's more accurate.

Purrrty!



Right side up!



Fought the clutch boss for about 45 minutes. It's a tricky bastard to put in. The center is a bearing race and comes out, and there's a spring loaded secondary gear on the clutch boss that's offset from the main gears. You can't get the gears to mesh so that the boss will sit in the center of the shaft so you can put the inner bearing race in. Then, when all else fails, I read the manual. It says to insert something through the hole in the boss and move the secondary spring loaded gear until they line up with the fixed gear. Did that and it centered over the shaft and I could slip in the inner bearing race. You can't put the bearing race on first because the gears won't clear parts of the casting. Once the bearing race went in, only about 1/8" of threads were showing to put the nut on and I knew that was wrong. Took about 15 minutes of wiggling it around and finally it slipped all the way in and then everything went together perfectly. Nut on and new retention washer installed and tab bend.





This makes me VERY happy. Yamabond oozing out. I'm happy to see that it sealed where it was supposed to.



Time to start putting covers on. Need to finish cleaning the gaskets off and then get it all buttoned up. Not much longer! So happy to see it upright.



One final note for the night. There are a number of small brackets and wire loom holders on the oil pan. I had photos of 2 of them, but not the third one. Had to go look at Eleanor's undercarriage to figure that one out. The book is a hot mess when it comes to where some of that stuff goes and how it's oriented. I didn't take the oil pan off, I don't think, so I didn't see it all. I should have taken more photos earlier on. That's the little stuff I worried about. It's great to have Eleanor 5 feet away. I plan on taking all the fairings off shortly to give me full access to walk over and look at various things. I think that's going to speed the process up a great deal.

Yeehaw!

Nice! Not sure if I'd have the guts/ambition to delve that deep but good on ya for doing it and bringing us all along for the ride!

I can't wait to hear the sound of that motor...and the click of the shift into 2nd.

BkerChuck wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:20 am Nice! Not sure if I'd have the guts/ambition to delve that deep but good on ya for doing it and bringing us all along for the ride!

It's pretty easy actually, just take off one part at a time.

Putting it back together is the hard part.

Yeah - I can take all kinds of stuff apart. Forget putting it back together, though.

It's nice that you have a cheat cheat to work from on the final assembly.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:06 am It's pretty easy actually, just take off one part at a time.

Putting it back together is the hard part.

Dont' be silly, it's clear in the manual. To put it back together, just reverse the steps

Festus wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:51 am

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Wed Feb 28, 2018 9:06 am It's pretty easy actually, just take off one part at a time.

Putting it back together is the hard part.

Dont' be silly, it's clear in the manual. To put it back together, just reverse the steps

So...you have to use your left hand instead of your right?

I love automotive manuals:

Transmission Section.
1. Repair and replacement of the most difficult part to access:
A. Gain access to difficult part.
B. Remove difficult part.
I. Check difficult part for signs of obvious failure.
II. If no signs of obvious failure, perform useless test to determine if difficult part is correctly malfunctioning.
III. If test shows good, replace it any way because customers have lots of money they don't need.

2. Reassembly is the reverse of removal.
I. Actually, it isn't. BWAHAHAHHAHAH!
II. Bitch.

Chipped away at it again for a little while tonight.

Timing chain cover thingy, installed. Clutch installed, new o-ring on that little clutch piece that holds the ball bearing in. Made sure to put the ball bearing in. Everything torqued, everything buttoned up. Covers on.



Pulled the valve cover off, put the new valve cover gasket on, new spark plugs installed.



Only thing left is the stator cover and the left side crankcase cover where you pour oil in. 20-30 more minutes and the engine is wrapped up.

Not going to lie, I'm a little sad to see the project coming to an end. Happy for the next chapter, but really enjoyed working on it. Ray, send me that box of parts, I'll put that puppy back together for you