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https://www.fjrforum.com/threads/chargi ... st-1343342

Going pin to pin, all three should be the same. (VAC) actual voltage will be a function of RPM.
Assume stator windings... OEM stators don't fail frequently. Sure your wires and plugs are OK?

Edit: Said magnets - was thinking about starter!!

There is one on eBay for pretty cheap, but who knows if it is good? I saw some aftermarket ones out there but the OEM is normally so reliable that I wouldn't be tempted.

Stator wires checked okay. Plug at the rectifier is okay. Rectifier plug removed and cleaned. Got battery voltage at the plug.

I think we are getting close. My opinion only, but a rare stator failure. I thnk the voltage on all 3 legs should be the same.

I would strongly consider a used on on ebay if I could get it for half price or less. It's overwhelmingly such a reliable part. Obviously, make sure it doesn't look burnt.

I'm thinking the same. I picked up a R/R yesterday hoping that was the issue. No change. Nobody local has a stator. I see a couple of promising ones on eBay.

Might be worth opening it up to have a look before you buy. Toasted windings are usually pretty clear. Possible you might find a wire or terminal issue that could be fixed...

FJRoss wrote: ↑Fri Sep 15, 2023 12:26 pm Might be worth opening it up to have a look before you buy. Toasted windings are usually pretty clear. Possible you might find a wire or terminal issue that could be fixed...

The output wires of most stators are yellow. Usually 3. Open circuit, R/R disconnected, testing at the R/R connector. One should have about 70 VAC between every combination of the yellow wires at idle. Or at the very least, every combination should be near the same, no 70 VAC and one 20 VAC. Would also test each against ground, and again if there is an odd man out, the stator is suspect.

Likely the voltage will rise with RPM. Might take 3,000 to 4,000 to get 70 VAC.

I believe we have the proverbial smoking gun. Looks toasted to me...

chazglenn3 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 15, 2023 9:48 pm I believe we have the proverbial smoking gun. Looks toasted to me...

It does look toasted. One has to reply to chazglenn3's post and then copy/past the Dropbox URLs in another window or tab to view. Have no ideal how to post Dropbox images here.

Sorry. I tried a few times to get the pictures to show. Thanks for going through the trouble to view them! I have a stator coming tomorrow.

You let the smoke out Charles, no wonder it quit working! Glad you found the issue.

~G

Almost a relief to find such an obvious answer to an electrical problem. Pretty sure it had to be the stator when the three "legs" showed different voltages. Gen II+ failures aren't common. I guess you were just lucky.

I think if I ever had a R/R issue, I would replace it with a series one. Takes a big part of the load off the stator.

Wow, fried. So, usually regulators fail first, and if not corrected soon, the stator will fry. Just sayin' make sure you replace the regulator..... Look up a used R/R for a 2015-up Versys 1000 (maybe Ninja 1000 also), it is a series type SH866A. Be sure in ebay pics they show the end with SH866A stamped on it which tells you it's a genuine Shindengen, otherwise it could be a Chinese fake.... direct plug-in, same physical size and connections as the FH020AA you have.

chazglenn3 wrote: ↑Fri Sep 15, 2023 9:48 pm I believe we have the proverbial smoking gun. Looks toasted to me...

Downloaded and put into my Smugmug acct.........

Thanks for the photo assist! I picked up a near brand new MOSFET R/R for $60 when I was hoping it was the problem. It's a Shindengen out of a Ducati Panigale V4S. Same as the FJR's. I'd rather use it since it's here...

Well - even I can see that as a failed stator. I agree with Ross - electrical gremiins are hard to diagnose (for me, anyway) - that smoking gun is a relief.

Hopefully you can get a good used on on Ebay From what I gather, the stator is not hard to replace. I did replace the stator cover (was rashed) on my Gen 1 bike. I don't think you will save the gasket - better get a new one ordered as well.

I got lucky and found a new OEM gasket at a dealership nearby. Any tips on getting the cable out and the new one back in?

Thinking back a few years to my project FJR.... fish old wire out at air cleaner behind frame, above clutch slave and down to the stator. I don't know if it's ziptied somewhere but doubt it.... when fishing it out, tape a length of wire on the connector end, and fish that back too. Then use that wire to fish the new stator wires..... I am assuming you'll find a used OEM stator, with the OEM connector... and I would use an OEM stator (Gen2), new or used. The parts diagram does not show if new one comes with the connector or not.

IF not, you'll have to either get new connector, or cut and splice on your existing.... in that case, I would use crimp type couplings, solder and heat shrink.

Put a dab of RTV on the rubber grommet at the engine case.....

I have a stator coming from a 2007 FJR. Thank you for the suggestion! I'll pull the side cover and the air cleaner cover. Probably should have a look at the filter anyway. Cutting and splicing occurred to me, but that will be a last resort.

Regulator is under the seat tray.... rear shock adjuster may impede progress. If rear wheel gone, might have better access???

I have the plugs off of the regulator. Almost got the bolts out but needed one or two universal joints that I didn't have. Picked up a couple at Lowe's. Haven't gotten back to working on removing it yet. But removing the rear wheel will definitely make it easier if the universal joints don't do the trick.