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Besides T-Rex, what other no-cut frame sliders are out there for the 2021 FJR?

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 2:04 pm Besides T-Rex, what other no-cut frame sliders are out there for the 2021 FJR?

Yamaha, of course - if you want to pay for them

SW-Motech
https://sw-motech.com/en/bike/YAMAHA/FJ ... 023136.htm

Says 2013-2015...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/111893875939?h ... BM0uXjtfph

I have Motovation sliders on my 2016...but I think you are looking for engine guards.

I actually prefer to have sliders (pucks), but having trouble finding choices. Thanks Joe for the suggestion. The T-Rex sliders are "out of stock".

Can't understand why those SW-Motech sliders would not fit?

A couple of "ES" questions:

1. When I increase pre-load (go from "one rider" to "two rider", for example), I feel like the bike is rising. Typically, adding pre-load is just cranking down on a shock spring. What is actually happening?

2. Within the owners manual, it states:

"Damping force Within each preload setting there are 3 damping force settings: “HARD” (hard), “STD” (standard) and “SOFT” (soft). When the preload setting is changed, the damping force settings will change accordingly. (The electronically adjustable suspension system will automatically adjust to the damping force settings last set for that preload setting.) To further finely adjust the damping force, each damping force setting can be set to 7 different levels."

Let's say I have the preload set to "one rider", and the dampening to my liking - "soft +2", for example. I load up for a camping trip and move the pre-load to "two rider plus luggage". Does the dampening stay at "soft +2", and if so, is that now just a "number", since the dampening is apparently changed? I'm trying to understand what the bike is doing.

When you increase preload on any bike, you are in fact changing the ride height higher.

For your chosen preload, choose a damping setting. It stays with that preload setting...... do that for each preload setting.

1. The preload ring on the shock spring is screwing down more pressure on the spring, same as a manual system. The rear of the bike will rise.
2.Not sure what the default setting is for each preload setting, but once you set the preload, say 2 helmets, you can then select soft, std, or hard. You can modify each of these from -3 to +3, but I believe that setting is common among all preloads. Set what you want std to be and whenever you select std, you get that customized damping setting. Same for the others.

Once you set the damping for a specific preload, say 1 helmet, and soft. Every time you set preload to 1 helmet, the damping will be remembered from the last time you used that prelaod. You can change it any time you want, but that will be the remembered setting unless you change it back.

It's pretty simple, but very nice to be able to switch to soft on a highway that is not smooth pavement or blocky, like 515 is by me in GA. Then when you get to Hwy 60 and the twisties you can switch to hard for more spirited riding. You just need to stop, if you want to increase preload as well for twisties.

Why not just put the T-Rex engine guards on? They are in stock, and come with a slider.

You can change the front setting while riding, but are limited to whatever the last setting for each level was. eg. if you are STD +1 while riding and change to soft whatever the last level you set for soft (-3 to +3) is what it will go to. For the rear you have to be stopped and in neutral. I generally ride with the rear set at two helmets. If I am hooning it up it will be 2 helmets with luggage and the front set at STD +1.

Toter wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 4:14 pm Why not just put the T-Rex engine guards on? They are in stock, and come with a slider.

Prefer the look of just the sliders. The engine guards provide a little more protection, but looking at it objectively, not much.

Really - it's really only protection for a low/no speed tip over. If I crash at speed, those guards and the damage I get without them is going to be the LEAST of my worries.

Just my $0.02 worth...

Had those 90 degree stems that you mentioned in the first post. After installing them, with the nozzle pointing to the right side of bike so I can fill the tires while on the kickstand, I then installed my Garmin TPMS caps and heard a clicking noise from the front when I was walking her out of the garage for a big road trip. Helmet on, gloves on, ready to go! Hearing that sound with all that on in my driveway. I investigated. The TPMS caps where hitting the brake calipers. That loosened the entire from stem in the rim. Delayed a day as I took those off and threw them in the trash, and gotten the T stems mentioned on this thread. Cap is mounted up top, fill from the side, the world is good!

I wound up buying the Kurvy Girl valve stems. Few extra bucks, but that is what I had on my previous bike, a present from my redfish friends. Those lasted 90,000 miles without trouble, so....

IIRC the settings on the suspension have some overlap. Something like Hard -3 might be similar to STD +3. I can’t recall the exact data, but it’s noticeable


Mostly my ride from Duane’s to north of Knoxville was with the settings of 2 helmets and STD +2. That seems to work for me in the mountains. I had a medium load of camping gear with no tip box.

I switched it to soft -3 traversing across 74 and then north of Knoxville.


Yes, you will feel the bike “rising” as the preload is increased. It does feel a little foreign when it happens the first time astride Halle.

Looking forward to the first report on your new ride.

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 2:04 pm Besides T-Rex, what other no-cut frame sliders are out there for the 2021 FJR?

I scored a set of GSG Moko from a forum member. Source them new at Wild Hair Accessories.I have regular round pucks although the Streetline version looks very nice. Comparable to OE Yamaha but more robust.

http://whaccessories.com/Yamaha-Sliders ... 0-2013.htm

~G

I placed my Fuzeblock in the tail, centered, just in front of the rear most plastic "partition." Same as my previous 16. Good spot out of the way. Bigjohnsd post on positap is what i used.

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 10:49 am ...
I think I only need ONE EACH of the #24 and 25 grommets. The seat bracket has two pairs of "nipples" that are inserted intot he grommets. When the bracket is moved high to low, the second set of nipples grabs the SAME grommets. Can anyone please look under their seat and confirm this so I can order the right amount of parts?
...

Just the two grommets.
(Click on image for larger view)

Thank you sir!

mcatrophy wrote: ↑Mon May 01, 2023 10:29 am

Hppants wrote: ↑Sun Apr 30, 2023 10:49 am ...
I think I only need ONE EACH of the #24 and 25 grommets. The seat bracket has two pairs of "nipples" that are inserted intot he grommets. When the bracket is moved high to low, the second set of nipples grabs the SAME grommets. Can anyone please look under their seat and confirm this so I can order the right amount of parts?
...

Just the two grommets.
(Click on image for larger view)

Mr. Trophy's pastime seems to be helping Americans out of a jam!

Congratulations on the FJR upgrade. Looking forward reading the future ride reports and good times you will have on the bike.

Ordered the $28.00 Color-rite touch up pen to further hide some of the beauty marks.

Yeah - you read that right. TWENTY-EIGHT FREAKING DOLLARS.... for touch up paint.

(sigh)

This inflation shit is not for the faint at heart....