FJRiders.com

I'm thinking something wrong with those screw rivets. I put just enough pressure on mine to hold the screwdriver in and then give the turn and they pop up out of the rivet. Removal of the rivet is easy. If they get stripped it seems like they might not come out. Certainly never caused me any issues, and we know, if there's issues, I can find them.

Never had a problem with the rivets. The metal screw at the rear of the battery compartment panel won’t screw in and strips every time. So I replace that screw with a nylon windshield screw. Always screws in with no drama. Never strips.

Red wrote: ↑Fri Sep 18, 2020 3:16 pm Just finished a small maintenance job on the FJR, and man, I have really had it with those fiddly OEM plastic panel rivets.

If anybody has any better options instead of the OEM rivets, I'd appreciate your input here. Even plastic rivets of a type that work better (and fit) would be an improvement.

I'm about ready to put nut plates behind the panels, everywhere the plastic rivets go now, and using self-tapping or machine screws instead of the cheap plastic rivets.

All advice is welcome here.
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That body screw forward of the battery compartment, where you have to align three pieces of plastic and hold the screw at the exact correct angle to get it to bite, that's the one that pisses me off.

Brodie wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:58 pmTime to upgrade!
Use these and you will never have one wear out again, and they're a bargain at $6.95 for a box of 100 – available nationwide. As an extra added bonus, if you get the plated steel ones, all you need is a magnetic screw driver for effortless removal. Hope this helps.
Brodie

Brodie,

Don't tempt me . . . I am seriously considering the installation of aircraft-style friction-locking nutplates, which will hold a machine screw captive when it is not fully tightened. That trick would allow for using a washer, with a machine screw and an O-ring under the head, to allow for some movement between the joining panels. I do like aircraft hardware . . .

Alternately, since 6mm push rivets seem to be fairly scarce, I may use a tapered reamer on each hole, taking just enough material away to allow the use of the very common 8mm push rivets.

Now I did find the style of 6mm push rivets that I wanted (smooth top, with a gap in the main body to let you pull the head up with a small screwdriver, for removal). Yeah, I might be somewhat picky there, but I did order some. Installed, the head is slightly smaller than a U.S. dime, but I'm okay with that size. When I see how well the product works that I found, I will report back. If it turns out to be good on the FJR, there is a GM part number for that push rivet on this Amazon page, so they should be easier to find elsewhere as a GM part (or equivalent).

https://www.amazon.com/Mean-Mug-Auto-71 ... B07DT8C9T5


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bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Sat Sep 19, 2020 12:10 pm At $8.99 for 100 6mm push pins there is no reason to fight with old worn out pins.

https://www.amazon.com/100xNylon-Plasti ... 7FGTBBS319

Tx for link John.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 12:06 amI'm thinking something wrong with those screw rivets. I put just enough pressure on mine to hold the screwdriver in and then give the turn and they pop up out of the rivet. Removal of the rivet is easy. If they get stripped it seems like they might not come out. Certainly never caused me any issues, and we know, if there's issues, I can find them.

gixxerjasen,

You might be right; I have no idea what they "should" do, but the push rivets in my FJR are just not that cooperative. I posted a link I found for for a GM part number, above. The price was good . . . So I may have a handle on the problem now, we shall see if they work out.

I was kinda hoping somebody had a good answer, or maybe a better answer than what I found. Never hurts to ask.
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Red wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 3:37 pm You might be right; I have no idea what they "should" do, but the push rivets in my FJR are just not that cooperative.

Here's mine which are OE for my 2007 just now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQGK_QmtGX4

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 5:46 pm

Red wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 3:37 pm You might be right; I have no idea what they "should" do, but the push rivets in my FJR are just not that cooperative.

Here's mine which are OE for my 2007 just now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQGK_QmtGX4

Do you have any fork videos?

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 6:37 pm

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 5:46 pm

Red wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 3:37 pm You might be right; I have no idea what they "should" do, but the push rivets in my FJR are just not that cooperative.

Here's mine which are OE for my 2007 just now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQGK_QmtGX4

Do you have any fork videos?

Maybe next time.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 5:46 pm

Red wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 3:37 pm You might be right; I have no idea what they "should" do, but the push rivets in my FJR are just not that cooperative.

Here's mine which are OE for my 2007 just now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQGK_QmtGX4

You know you don't have to use the screwdriver to reinstall them. Simply push the head in with your finger.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 11:35 am That body screw forward of the battery compartment, where you have to align three pieces of plastic and hold the screw at the exact correct angle to get it to bite, that's the one that pisses me off.

Lumberg has the answer.... the freakin screw needs to be 5mm longer. I have used a windshield screw in there too, let it sit for a day or two and maybe I can replace it with the original..... The problem with all these blind applications is (I've found anyway), unless the screw is perfectly aligned to the nut (and I am including insertion angle), they won't start and will dull the leading thread. A brand new screw sometimes helps.
The plastic rivets are no issue compared to some of these.

The screws on the dash where two or more panels come together screw into a floating clip nut. When I got my zero mile '15 The dealer had 'sprung' every single clip nut so that the opening on one side didn't align with the nut on the back making it impossible to get a screw in. If you get the screw misaligned and try to force the screw in, it will twist and bend the clip nut making it hard to impossible to get the screw started next time. If you have a clip nut that's hard to use consider replacing it.

Given the level of ¿skill? that the dealer showed if bending every clip nut on the bike, I replaced them all myself. Before I try to put the screw in I will put a thin screwdriver through the hole and wiggle it around until I have the panels, the top hole of the clip nut and the nut on the clip nut aligned. Then I look at the angle of the screwdriver shaft and try to match that with the screw.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 5:46 pm

Red wrote: ↑Sun Sep 20, 2020 3:37 pmYou might be right; I have no idea what they "should" do, but the push rivets in my FJR are just not that cooperative.

Here's mine which are OE for my 2007 just now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQGK_QmtGX4

gixxerjasen,

From the earlier posts here, that video is about what I was expecting to see. My push rivets probably got hammered by the PO, but they never did what the video shows, on my FJR. For the OEM price of US$3.33 each or whatever, I won't be seeing that wonderful stuff on my bike. I can buy (typically) fifty aftermarket (GM) push rivets for the price of three Yamaha OEM push rivets. Fifty push rivets may be a lifetime supply, for me.

We'll have to see what comes, from the aftermarket. Thanks.
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For the machine screws, one can use Honda 90103-MBG-000 (5mm x 20) but they are not black and use a 5mm hex to install/remove. I'm sure one could find black fairing screws if one looks around more......
There are fairing screw kits (anodized aluminum screws) that come in various colours.
I had leftover fairing screws from my Honda ST1300 and GL1800 days, changed out all the 4mm hex to 5 (more robust), except the dash panel screws.

Well, hell. I learned something here, and simultaneously over a beer at EOM: In order to remove those 'rivets' you do NOT have to reach into the guts of the bike and push the little post out with your finger or screwdriver tip. Man, that was really difficult to do.

(And yes, I am absolutely serious that's how I removed every one when I took off the fairings this past winter.)

Yea, those little rivets are a struggle as they aren't intuitive. Then you learn how to work them and you are like "Oh geez!" and it's easy from then on out.

I "think" there was a gent from England that had pitchers an everthin on how to do stuff about removing plastic.

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 11:44 am I "think" there was a gent from England that had pitchers an everthin on how to do stuff about removing plastic.

Yes, I used his most excellent guide with GREAT photos! Thanked him after taking it apart and again after putting it back together four months later. He didn't say anything about how to take out the rivets.

<edited per below ... Well, Goo-ooo-ooollly, Sergeant Carter!!!>

Uncle Hud wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 2:47 pm

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Mon Sep 21, 2020 11:44 am I "think" there was a gent from England that had pitchers an everthin on how to do stuff about removing plastic.

Yes, I used his most excellent guide with GREAT photos! Thanked him after taking it apart and again after putting it back together four months later. He didn't say anything about how to take out the rivets.

I think that, as he took photos on everything, explained everything...but didn't mention the rivets says something.

Whiners..... those rivets are used on tons of bikes..... whar ya been all this time?