FJRiders.com

extrememarine wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 9:07 am Now that is priceless...

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:14 am Look at all of this smart advice. I have to tell you all how smart Cav47 is. Last night he picked up the phone and called the only guy on this thread that doesn't even have a clutch lever.

Well, the reason I called Gixxer was because he posted up the picture about changing his clutch plates. At first, that is what was suspected until some others chimes in with the lever possibility.

I could say that I called him to find out what he would do, then avoid GixxerJasening my clutch. But he is a nice guy and sent me some links to his clutch issues. Total truth be told, I did forget he had the AE until we were talking.

DesignFlaw06 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 9:23 am I swear I never went near the clutch while working on Cav's bike. I mean, I don't think I did. Where's the clutch again?

Same side as we put the switch for the new photon blaster lights. They work great too. Those left hand lane lingerers do not like being blinded by the flash to pass toggle. It is quite noticeable for them to look at the side mirrors and rear view while hurriedly putting on the turn signal. Usually they have a cell phone on their hand and are going about 4 MPH over on the fast lane.

Cav47 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 8:43 am Yeah I called Gixxer, but also called Pants too.

So you called the guy without a clutch lever that breaks stuff, AND you called Pants well into shampoo bottle time? I can't think of a bigger waste of time! Both calls should have been entertaining though!

Like was mentioned above, your friend is waterproof silicone grease, apply liberally to those pivot points. You'll be good for a while after that. Mine showed up when out on a trip and the cruise stopped engaging, pushed out on the levers and life was good again.

After a brief test on the highway, I think the problem has been found. That small amount of artificial pull in on the clutch had to be it. I made no less than 8 full twist today at full throttle.

I also pulled the clutch in a few times while doing this to simulate what was happening before and it mimicked what was happening.


Thanks for the help guys.

Well, after further testing after the bike warmed up fully, Same symptoms.

Damn

f@$k!

Cav47 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 12:55 pm Well, after further testing after the bike warmed up fully, Same symptoms.

Damn

Damnit, you got my hopes up.

The only time I recall a younger FJR with a clutch failure was SkooterG and it was directly related to a day of slow racing. The longest time around a the course wins.

The symptoms you are experiencing are classic for failing worn clutch plates or the use of an energy conserving oil. Since you have been consistently using Rotella T6 the oil shouldn't be a suspect. Being ok cold and slipping when hot is classic for worn friction disks. The classic test is to get the bike into top gear with as low a tach reading as is recommended and popping open the throttle. Any slipping will express itself with certainty.

Any issues with the hydraulic system would cause the clutch to drag, the opposite of what you have. If the master cylinder had a problem or if there was damage to the interior of the clutch line it wouldn't be 'good cold and bad hot'.

As has been covered already, the clutch lever, the bronze pivot and the bushings in the lever must be clean, lubricated and free of damage.

It may be time to order a clutch cover gasket and some friction disks. I drag race my bikes at the track; in 120k miles on my FJR #1 I had no clutch problems. It's a bit of a mystery as to why you have early onset wear.

(Are you confident that nobody may have added something to your oil as a joke?)

(Do you rest your hand on the clutch lever when you ride?)

Well then, you don't have a lot of choice but to pull the clutch apart, clean/lube, AKA the clutch soak thing. Have you noticed any effort difference in pulling the lever recently? Weaker clutch spring perhaps..... I'm guessing you got 50k on this rig, but still shouldn't be worn out. Been doing wheelies? While you're in there, check for notching on the clutch basket where the plate tabs are, clean up any burrs..... shoot us some pics.
Measure clutch friction plate thickness..... still above minimum?
Short cut...... replace all the friction plates and spring with new (soaked in oil first of course), take away that uncertainty.
Very rare if at all, but sticky clutch slave cylinder would partially disengage the clutch, again, I haven't heard of this.... note, no rebuild kit available.
How dirty was the clutch fluid when you serviced it? Note if return hole in M/C was blocked with dirt, may not be letting pressure off the slave (more of a Honda problem than a Yamaha (I think larger hole)).

Just throwing data out there.
I used Rotella T6 in a bunch of bikes, never any issues. I used it in my FJR from the time I got it. Within 10K miles I started having issues. It was slipping bad at 50K. The AE system always threw more clutch related errors right after an oil change, then subsided a bit till I changed it again.

I replaced it all and started using Mobil 1 motorcycle oil instead. No issues since. Measurements on the clutch plates were in spec, so they weren't worn down.

Is T6 bad for the FJR? Maybe. I don't know. It's a commonality though between our issues.

As we discussed last night, if the lever doesn't fix it, I'd not risk the trip messing around with a whole bunch of testing when shipping times aren't normal in our current COVID19 world. I'd act as soon as possible to save that amazing trip with your daughter out west. If there weren't a trip riding on all of this, I'd say try all other options first, but...

Let me know if you need any help.

Oh yea, and one other tip I forgot to tell you last night. As soon as that cover comes off the bike, before you do anything else, FILL THE JESUS HOLE!

Cav47 wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 12:55 pmWell, after further testing after the bike warmed up fully, Same symptoms. Damn

Cav47,

The shop manual (FSM) has a spec for the total thickness of all clutch plates as a stack. Below spec, install some new fiber disks, at least. If the plates are up to spec, then look elsewhere, such as the clutch cylinders or springs. I would guess that your hanging clutch lever has worn the clutch disks for some time now.

An aftermarket (full) clutch pack may be cheaper than the Yamaha clutch disks, bought separately. I'd do an oil soak with the new disks before installing, though.
.

gixxerjasen wrote: ↑Mon Jun 15, 2020 2:47 pm ...I used Rotella T6 ...Within 10K miles I started having issues...I replaced it all and started using Mobil 1 motorcycle oil instead. No issues since...

Changing the oil & filter is certainly the quickest, easiest and and probably the least expensive thing to try -- after a full clutch lever service.

I did the lever maintenance last night and today, it snaps back with authority now. Whereas yesterday it was not going back to the furthest away from the bar by 3/4 of an inch. That same amount of pull in on the clutch duplicates the symptoms described.

Here is the biggest issue. Taking apart the clutch and doing major work is scary as shit to me. I am gonna start looking at YouTube videos and reading the FSM. But let’s be honest, this stuff is outside of my skill set.

I am prob gonna change the oil first, but let’s be honest, I doubt that is gonna fix it entirely. The clutch thing is gonna have to be done.

CoVid messes up everything. Lol.

If you livestream it, we can enjoy it too..."no, put it there..."
Never mind. Hope you get it werkin soon.

It's hard to imagine a 2015 with a clutch that's smoked.

There are plenty of videos of it online and from the working perspective, it's pretty easy, from the fear factor of never doing it before, it's terrifying. Especially when the ball bearing falls out and you didn't know one was in there or where it came from

I wonder is maybe that valve that pushes from the left side is sticking or not working right.

how far away from Detroit are you? We could do a video tech day with Ray from my garage - I have a lift, tools, and very reasonable labor rates...

Or better yet, set up a webcam and a zoom meeting, we'll all get on there and lope useless suggestions at you!

Seriously - find someone who can help or bite the bullet and get it to a shop.

Wayne

Time to Trade

It's for the Spawn, not for you

So it’s doing it after the lever and bushing were serviced? Is the bushing misshapen? I know you’re tweaking. I would be. Just have a hard time believing it’s the innards if palatable oil has always been used.