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The following is from the Technical Data Sheet if that helps:

LOCTITE LB 8012 contains 65% molybdenum disulfide for maximum lubricity. It is a heavy, black paste with unsurpassed lubricating qualities. Machine tool marks and other irregularities are reduced to a mirror-smooth finish by its lubricating action. LOCTITE® LB 8012 reduces friction on threaded fasteners, including bolts, nuts and studs. The low and uniform friction coefficient of 0.06 creates reliable assembly conditions. Lubricant stays in place through heat, load and vibration to ensure a trouble-free disassembly. For the ultimate in low friction solid lubrication: press fit - no binding, no chatter or stick-slip, low force; threaded fasteners - higher clamping for torque, less torque for same clamping, ease of removal (anti- seize); slip-fit - easy assembly, disassembly, ready alignment; metalworking - drawing, stamping, coining, extruding, forging - lower friction, eliminates stratching, galling, metal pick-up, lengthens die life; splines - reduces wear and binding; gears - stands up under high static or slow-moving loads.

Don't see any reason why it won't work...... BTW Yamaha recommends lithium soap grease on the drive splines.... of course, we want the best.... Honda splines on the other hand are softer metal and need moly.

I've used high moly "anti seize" products in numerous applications for hoist and crane splines (5 & 10 ton), axles, fasteners, open bearing (think steering bearings) packing, even using it in small light load gear boxes instead of oil. It will do what you want it to and more. Be stingy with it- a small dab goes a long way.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 10:27 pm Don't see any reason why it won't work...... BTW Yamaha recommends lithium soap grease on the drive splines.... of course, we want the best.... Honda splines on the other hand are softer metal and need moly.

I saw that too. So are you saying moly is better? I already have moly in the garage.

ZX 11 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:39 pm

Powerman wrote: ↑Mon Sep 24, 2018 10:14 pm LB 8012 anti-seize is not what I would use where moly grease is spec'd.

I guess it could be used in some light duty lubrication

It is 65% molybdenum disulfide paste which is slightly higher concentration than the Honda Moly 60 that most seem to recommend but Honda seems to no longer sell. I haven’t used it on the splines yet but would be interested to know why this is not the right product to use.

You don't want to use anti-seize near rubber seals. They argue with each other and the anti-seize wins every time.

I have used hi moly grease on my 2007 (for the u-joint splines) exactly once. Thought it would be a good idea since they don't get serviced frequently. No problems beyond the fact that the Honda paste is ugly black shit that gets everywhere!! (I haven't used it since then - on anything)

In almost 200,000 miles, I see very little wear on the rear wheel drive splines, axles or anywhere else people seem to like to use this crap. IMHO, totally unnecessary for anything on the FJR and I fail to see anywhere that the lifetime of parts would be measurably extended with its use. Waterproof synthetic grease does it for me.

I do recall we used it in the Air Force on our nuclear bombs. Or maybe on the wheels of the trailers we hauled the bombs around on. Or maybe on some other little piece of equipment. We had lots of equipment and it was a long time ago. But I do remember we called it "Mollie Di" when we had to use it. And it came in a tube, like, um, KY jelly.

Moly is good,just don't slather it on, a light coating with a toothbrush is plenty. A small tube will last forever.

ZX 11 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 25, 2018 8:39 pm ...I haven’t used it on the splines yet but would be interested to know why this is not the right product to use.

Moly paste is made to hold on with tenacity and not fling off rotating parts, moly paste takes high compressive forces and has resistance to high temperature breakdown. Even after the paste thins out moly tends to remain plated to the parts.

[Too much information: Elemental molybdenum is used to fabricate arc chambers in ion implanters, reference my Forum name, because of its electrical characteristics (conductive) and physical properties such as low reaction with oxygen, thermal stability with a high melting point and durability in an intense environment.]

HaulinAshe wrote: ↑Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:17 pm
You don't want to use anti-seize near rubber seals. They argue with each other and the anti-seize wins every time.

Thanks. That answers the next question I had which is why the service manual recommends lithium on the end of the drive shaft that attaches to the hub (where there is a rubber seal on the hub) but recommends moly on the splines that go into the ujoint side. Looks like I got the right stuff, just need to use it in the right places as described in the manual.

I don't know about anti-seize and rubber seals but I do know petroleum products will eat rubber. The seals on the rear drive most likely are not rubber.