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Wow, ATE Super Blue Racing Fluid is illegal in the US.
That stuff had the highest boiling point available.
Dumb ass DOT

Got the bleed done last night after hanging a 20 pound dumbbell off the rear brake pedal for 24 hours. Waited on reporting back because I planned on riding to work today, great day to ride by the way.

I did 20 pumps on all brake bleed points. When I bled the rear, front brake on the 5th pump one bubble came out. It wasn’t very big, about a 1/3 of the size of a bubble you would see on a 4ft level. Did not see any bubble(s) when bleeding the rear. Front brakes felt fine but bled them again anyway, all went well there as well. Also opened and closed each bleeder with a wrench on each pump. Took it out for a quick spin around the block when I got done and it felt much better, definitely not a much travel. Ride to work and back, of course I took the long way home, the rear brake felt really good. Assuming there isn’t a bubble stuck someplace else and comes loose, I’d say problem solved.

Thank you very much everyone for the help on this!!

NICE!

raYzerman wrote:All the same.........

I have a question, I saw Ionbeam's post at the other sandbox. Apparently you turn on the ignition, kill switch to off and hold the starter for 4 seconds, then hit the brakes.

On a gen 3, how do you do that being that the starter is on the kill switch? Leave thr kickstabd down or some such?

Speed bleeder side bar note;

When doing the brake flush, remember you're clearing out (with the gentle brake handle pumps) the lines and reservoir only! ...but, the caliper/piston fluid remains w the old yellow-ish fluid. Some folks use blocks and such to force out the pads which in turn pushes out this old fluid, several tricks for it.... or, just roll with it and let that (small amount of) old fluid purge in with the new.

Top_Speed1 wrote:Speed bleeder side bar note;

When doing the brake flush, remember you're clearing out (with the gentle brake handle pumps) the lines and reservoir only! ...but, the caliper/piston fluid remains w the old yellow-ish fluid. Some folks use blocks and such to force out the pads which in turn pushes out this old fluid, several tricks for it.... or, just roll with it and let that (small amount of) old fluid purge in with the new.

If you really want to collapse the pistons, a small prybar can push the piston back without taking the caliper loose. However, it is recommended that you open the bleeder to avoid pushing crap back through the ABS pump and master cylinder.

I am with you however in that it doesn't amount to much and will be ok.

I just did all this on my bike, (found the ABS test procedure for the Gen 3 on yootoob), and found the clutch was NASTY. Not sure why. But the brakes were ok-ish.

Now everything is golden. (or amber, but still clear brake fluid.)

Thanks for the help and all the comments in this thread everyone!

silverback wrote:

raYzerman wrote:All the same.........

I have a question, I saw Ionbeam's post at the other sandbox. Apparently you turn on the ignition, kill switch to off and hold the starter for 4 seconds, then hit the brakes.

On a gen 3, how do you do that being that the starter is on the kill switch? Leave thr kickstabd down or some such?

Yup. Jump the connector. Put bike in gear. Kickstand down. Ignition on. Hold starter button for a few seconds. Bike shouldn't turn over. If it does, your kickstand switch might be fucky. Grab both brakes and you should feel them pulsing right away.

Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk

Gen3 is plug in the jumper, hold brakes, turn ignition on. Couldn't be easier.

Clutch can be black crap. Potentially black from the lining of the hose, possibly has never been flushed. Once first flush done, will get clearer on future flushes, but is always darker it seems, I attribute this to continuous engine heat.

I agree Ray - the clutch slave cylinder is subjected to the heat 100% of the time. Brakes only when they are engaged and being used.

I haven't mustered up enough courage to try the "ABS block flush". But I have tested the ABS on unexpected gravel recently. It pulsed 3 or 4 times. Hopefully that moved some fluid around....

Pants, time for a quick bleed.... move it out of the ABS pump.

FWIW, front wheel ABS activation on the 14 is much less of an event than the 05 was. 14 just kind of clatters while the front end squats and you clinch the seat for added traction while contemplating the fate of the douch nozzle who damn near killed you.

On the 05, the front ABS was more like releasing a rabid badger and would almost break your iron grip on the front lever. When the douch nozzle pulled out in front of you, you were instead contemplating whether or not your fingers were dislocated from the pushback on the lever. When I lost my 05, I couldn't figure out why my right hand hurt, until I remembered the ABS activation in the middle of the OhShi.. moment. I am glad the ABS is more refined on the newer ones.

raYzerman wrote: ↑Sun Apr 29, 2018 1:47 pm Pants, time for a quick bleed.... move it out of the ABS pump.

TMI!