FJRiders.com

From the other Sandbox, but without the PIX for now:

[Pre-Edit 1 -- this procedure is valid for Gen I through Gen II FJRs. It differs only in the using red Run/Stop/Start switch to reset any error codes, you toggle in Stop direction times seconds or less.]

[Pre-Edit II -- FU Photobucket. To view the photos you will need to install add-ons. Firefox fix Chrome fix ]


At the end of the test procedure, I supply information on how to make a simple, permanent installation for the ABS test Coupler which makes this procedure easy to perform anytime. The following procedure is excerpted from a post I wrote in a different thread. This is the basic ABS and ABS Metering Block test procedure, pretty simple to do, just convoluted to read at first. As always, read and use your FSM for reference.

You can verify that the ABS system is working, actuate the spool valves in the ABS hydraulic Metering Block and move a tiny amount of brake fluid by using the ABS test coupler. This is good for the health of the hydraulic unit and will help prevent freezing spool valves. The ABS test coupler lives under dash Panel D. On the Gen I the test connector has its own little bracket mounted to the frame holding it down and it has a cap over it, on the Gen II the test connector is above the battery. Please refer to your FSM for all the details. The following is intended to give you an idea of what is involved in a basic ABS Pass/Fail test.

To oversimplify ABS activation method 1 to test the system:

verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
put the bike on the center stand, in neutral
with the ignition key off, remove the cap and jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
find a friend, offspring or wife to help, with the bike on the center stand ---->
simultaneously hold both the front and rear brakes on
turn on the key
when the ABS warning light flashes there will be one pulse felt in the front brake lever and then two pulses at the rear brake pedal
your helper will try to rotate the rear wheel; it should rotate for 0.1 seconds then stop, then rotate again 0.1 seconds on the second pulse
turn the ignition switch off
remove the jumper
Congratulations, your ABS system works.

Rotating the rear wheel when on the center stand may set Error Code 25 -- this is not an error or fault, disregard this error message. Because the front wheel was not moving while the rear wheel was turned by hand the ABS ECU thinks that the vehicle is moving but there were no pulses coming from the front wheel. The diagnostics for Code 25 specifically mentions that this will happen if the motorcycle is on the center stand and the rear wheel is rotated.

To oversimplify ABS activation method 2 to test the hydraulic system:

verify that the battery voltage is >12.8 volts or this test won't work; charge or replace as necessary
put the bike on the center stand, in neutral
with the ignition key off, jump the ABS Diagnostic connector's Sky Blue wire to the Black wire
turn the red Run/Stop switch to OFF
turn the ignition key on and wait for 2 seconds
now press and hold the Starter button for >4 seconds, the engine will not start; release the Starter button
simultaneously operate both the front and rear brakes
0.5 seconds later the front brake lever will pulse twice; then the rear brake pedal will pulse twice; after the brake pedal stops pulsing, 0.5 seconds later the brake lever will again start pulsating and continue for ~2 seconds.
turn the ignition switch off
remove the jumper
set the Run/Stop switch back to Run
Congratulations, your ABS hydraulic system works.

Deleting The Malfunction Codes

Connect the Test Coupler or activate the Test Switch you installed.
Turn the key ON. Any recorded malfunction Codes will be displayed.
Set the red Engine Run/Stop switch to OFF. Be SURE the Engine Stop Switch is OFF or Bad Things can happen.
Push the Starter Button at least 10 times in 4 seconds to delete the Malfunction Code(s).
Turn the key OFF. Done.
By permanently installing the ABS Test Coupler and a test switch you won't have to jump wires or remove the Test Coupler. To test the ABS flip the switch ON (shorting the two switch contacts). Run the tests. Flip the test switch OFF (no connection between the switch contacts). Done.

Edit on 2/28/2014 -- It is my understanding that ~ 1 year ago Yamaha stopped selling this test jumper to the public. You can still use an alligator clip lead or any other wire to jump the ABS connector pins and it will work just fine and save you a few bucks.

This is what the Yamaha ABS Test Coupler P/N 90890-03149 looks like:

ABSCoupler-2.jpg

You can find the Test Coupler in many places, one place is Boats-dot-Net The part is <$10 but unfortunately the shipping is $10. For this procedure we are only interested in the jumper. The two connectors are intended only for volt meter connections. By putting a volt meter on these two connectors you can run the full battery of ABS tests, run diagnostics and read & clear ABS fault codes.

Modify the coupler by cutting the jumper:

ABSCouplerJumperCut-2.jpg

Now, add extension wires to the ends of the cut jumper. The wires carry almost no current so wire gauge isn't important, they just need to be heat and vibration resistant enough to hold up to motorcycle use. The wires need to be long enough to reach what-ever location you choose to mount the test switch.

ABSCouplerFlyingLeads-2.jpg

Here are a couple of ideas for a test switch. The first switch is one tough marine duty brass switch which is available with a rubber boot making it waterproof. While overkill, it is also bullet-proof.

clickable pic
16535F-p.jpg

Radio Shack switch:

clickable pic
pRS1C-2160415w345.jpg

There are lots of sources for Toggle Switch Rubber Boots, such as Bass Shop Pro, AmpHexSeal, Parts Express and Allied Electric.

Mount or zip-tie the switch to the location of your choice. If you are going to panel mount the switch, consider putting a connector on the two wires to make it easy to remove the panel.

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 12:21 pm From the other Sandbox, but without the PIX for now:

...At the end of the test procedure, I supply information on how to make a simple, permanent installation for the ABS test Coupler which makes this procedure easy to perform anytime. The following procedure is excerpted from a post I wrote in a different thread. This is the basic ABS and ABS Metering Block test procedure, pretty simple to do, just convoluted to read at first. As always, read and use your FSM for reference...

Thanks John, this will be much improved once I get pixs and Gen 3/4 updates.

@ Wheaties

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 12:13 pm
[deleted picture of my car]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Stock photo...we need video proof with Alan taking off his helmet after the 155mph 1/2 mile run.

Well, here is a wider picture with Helen taking my picture while I was shooting my car. The track had just opened the staging lanes and the staff was starting to take positions. Just after picking up this car I made a pure stock base-line run, no adjustments, with a dirty air filter and all, the 4 door grocery-getter turned a 12.3 @ 118 mph in the 1/4 mile. Drag racing isn't the strong suit of my car, it lives, loves and desires for race courses and autocross events.



I may be able to get that helmet picture and a snap of the timing lights next Wednesday. Several NERDS want to go to the track with me. A few of the foolish want to take a run down the strip as a co-driver. Helen has ridden with me on road courses and autocross courses and had fun; she took one run down the strip in my Impala SS (not shown here) and it was one & done. Never more. NOT fun.

And now, back to your regularly scheduled ABS thread.

ionbeam wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 12:49 pm

bigjohnsd wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 12:21 pm From the other Sandbox, but without the PIX for now:

...At the end of the test procedure, I supply information on how to make a simple, permanent installation for the ABS test Coupler which makes this procedure easy to perform anytime. The following procedure is excerpted from a post I wrote in a different thread. This is the basic ABS and ABS Metering Block test procedure, pretty simple to do, just convoluted to read at first. As always, read and use your FSM for reference...

Thanks John, this will be much improved once I get pixs and Gen 3/4 updates.

@ Wheaties

wheatonFJR wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 12:13 pm
[deleted picture of my car]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Stock photo...we need video proof with Alan taking off his helmet after the 155mph 1/2 mile run.

Well, here is a wider picture with Helen taking my picture while I was shooting my car. The track had just opened the staging lanes and the staff was starting to take positions. Just after picking up this car I made a pure stock base-line run, no adjustments, with a dirty air filter and all, the 4 door grocery-getter turned a 12.3 @ 118 mph in the 1/4 mile. Drag racing isn't the strong suit of my car, it lives, loves and desires for race courses and autocross events.



I may be able to get that helmet picture and a snap of the timing lights next Wednesday. Several NERDS want to go to the track with me. A few of the foolish want to take a run down the strip as a co-driver. Helen has ridden with me on road courses and autocross courses and had fun; she took one run down the strip in my Impala SS (not shown here) and it was one & done. Never more. NOT fun.

And now, back to your regularly scheduled ABS thread.

I assume the connector in question is somewhere under the Gen 3 Right Side Battery Compartment Cover?

You know, when I lived in Boston for 2 years, I just knew that a redneck like me would enjoy New Hampshire folks. Car racing, guns, motorcycle rallies, liquor stores at the Welcome Centers, mountains, woods, and the steepest ski areas in New England.

Do y'all say "Yeehaw", too?

The ABS diagnostic connector is located just left and forward of the postive battery cable. The end you're looking for is forward, so remove the connector from the metal bracket (lift lock feature, slide rearward off the bracket). The connector holds the mating connector you need, so no need to go shopping, except for the correct terminals. Sumitomo MT090.

silverback wrote: ↑Fri May 18, 2018 9:22 am With said pigtail, one could wire in a momentary on push button switch and an LED with appropriate resistor in the correct circuits. Then, one could mount them in an inconspicuous location amd perform ABS diag with the push of a button and read the blinks for codes.

Been there done that with my first gixxer. I had one of the first documented cases of an FI issue with the bike. Got the FI light while riding. Turned the bike off and when I turned it back on the light was out again. I read up on how to get the code later and tried to pull it but it was lost when the bike was off. I quickly figured out that since the plug was under the rear seat that I'd have to turn the bike off to open the back up when it happened again. I wired up a momentary push button to a hobby box I mounted hidden away on the side of the bike that could be reached while riding. Next time the light came on I reached down and pushed the button and got my code. Easy peasy.