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I'd do the easy stuff first, connections clean and snug, battery charged, start in neutral. If at rest voltage (overnight) is dropping too much (e.g., ~12.5 volts), then there's a parasitic draw or the battery is suspect. If you hook up a voltmeter and crank it, voltage should not drop below say 11 volts. If it does, take the battery and have it load tested.
Starter draw will be up to 80 amps while cranking, if much more than that, starter is suspect. Could be the relay too, but I doubt it at this point.
Let us know what you find......

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:26 pm I'd do the easy stuff first, connections clean and snug, battery charged, start in neutral. If at rest voltage (overnight) is dropping too much (e.g., ~12.5 volts), then there's a parasitic draw or the battery is suspect. If you hook up a voltmeter and crank it, voltage should not drop below say 11 volts. If it does, take the battery and have it load tested.
Starter draw will be up to 80 amps while cranking, if much more than that, starter is suspect. Could be the relay too, but I doubt it at this point.
Let us know what you find......

Battery sits at 12.6V when I turn the key on it goes to 12.2-12.3. When I hit the starter it droops to 9.5....

0face wrote:

raYzerman wrote: ↑Tue Oct 17, 2017 1:26 pm I'd do the easy stuff first, connections clean and snug, battery charged, start in neutral. If at rest voltage (overnight) is dropping too much (e.g., ~12.5 volts), then there's a parasitic draw or the battery is suspect. If you hook up a voltmeter and crank it, voltage should not drop below say 11 volts. If it does, take the battery and have it load tested.
Starter draw will be up to 80 amps while cranking, if much more than that, starter is suspect. Could be the relay too, but I doubt it at this point.
Let us know what you find......

Battery sits at 12.6V when I turn the key on it goes to 12.2-12.3. When I hit the starter it droops to 9.5....

That's a pretty square indication it is bad. Next step is a proper load test, which means take it out and charge it fully. Take it to an O'Reilly's or Autozone and have them check it. It will most likey show bad.

Then time to hit up warranty. You could just skip to this step. I have never seen a battery that tanks under starting load pass a load test.

FWIW, batteries are sometimes bad from the start. It happens, and sucks.

True, batteries can be and sometimes are bad when still new, but I don't think even a properly functioning battery that can pass a normal load test can maintain acceptable starting voltages when faced with a hard short to ground.

Fwiw, sounds like it may be: a) less likely, cable between starter relay and starter motor is shorting out to the chassis somewhere, (look for brunt arcing spots or damaged insulation), or b) more likely, the starter motor armature is shorting out.

Like was said, getting OReilly's to run a load test on the battery might be an easy item to eliminate. If you have a clamp on amp meter or access to one, you might also try that. Ray mentioned 80 amps which sounds about right for a starter under cranking load for our bikes. In the other sand box, somebody measured 175 amps no load bench test on their bad unit, and 40 amps no load bench test on their replacement unit.

NTXFJR wrote: ↑Tue Oct 17, 2017 6:38 pm True, batteries can be and sometimes are bad when still new, but I don't think even a properly functioning battery that can pass a normal load test can maintain acceptable starting voltages when faced with a hard short to ground.

Fwiw, sounds like it may be: a) less likely, cable between starter relay and starter motor is shorting out to the chassis somewhere, (look for brunt arcing spots or damaged insulation), or b) more likely, the starter motor armature is shorting out.

Like was said, getting OReilly's to run a load test on the battery might be an easy item to eliminate. If you have a clamp on amp meter or access to one, you might also try that. Ray mentioned 80 amps which sounds about right for a starter under cranking load for our bikes. In the other sand box, somebody measured 175 amps no load bench test on their bad unit, and 40 amps no load bench test on their replacement unit.

I'm leaning towards B.

0face wrote: ↑Tue Oct 17, 2017 7:28 pm
I'm leaning towards B.

Don't tip over..

Yeah... I’m going with the starter...







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That's what happens when you neglect changing your starter oil.....

Bust wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:14 pm That's what happens when you neglect changing your starter oil.....

What kind of oil is best for FJR Starters?

0face wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:19 pm

Bust wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:14 pm That's what happens when you neglect changing your starter oil.....

What kind of oil is best for FJR Starters?

If Bust sends you a link...DON'T click on it, jes sayin.

Major Pain in the Balls to get the starter out. took a bunch of pics and will post a DIY when I can. Freakin throttle bodies have to come out... however you don't have to completely disassemble them to get them out, I was able to move them out of the way.

Shite,
Clean that thing up and get another 100k out of it.....

0face wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:19 pm

Bust wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:14 pm That's what happens when you neglect changing your starter oil.....

What kind of oil is best for FJR Starters?

You can use the synthetic blinker fluid. Stops the flux capacitor from sticking.

0face wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:02 pm Yeah... I’m going with the starter...







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Yeah...that doesn't look quite right

NTXFJR wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:29 pm Shite,
Clean that thing up and get another 100k out of it.....

It doesn't really look all that bad, the grooves in the commutator aren't filled up, however the oily stuff could degrade performance a bit. Clean it up to get rid of the oily stuff, make sure the brushes are moving freely, clean up the comm, put it back together.........

The battery readings are concerning...... get that checked out.

0face wrote:

Bust wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:14 pm That's what happens when you neglect changing your starter oil.....

What kind of oil is best for FJR Starters?

It works on your bajaj too. Just sayin'!

Just a thought, you might consider also replacing your starter relay while you're in there. The treated contact tip surfaces are designed for a normal amp load, they will overheat and degrade rapidly when under high amp loads.

0face wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:28 pm Major Pain in the Balls to get the starter out. took a bunch of pics and will post a DIY when I can. Freakin throttle bodies have to come out... however you don't have to completely disassemble them to get them out, I was able to move them out of the way.

Umm, Don't you have staff that can do this for you Mr Mayor?
You can't advance your political aspirations without a good scandal.

Bust wrote: ↑Thu Oct 19, 2017 10:21 am

0face wrote: ↑Wed Oct 18, 2017 2:28 pm Major Pain in the Balls to get the starter out. took a bunch of pics and will post a DIY when I can. Freakin throttle bodies have to come out... however you don't have to completely disassemble them to get them out, I was able to move them out of the way.

Umm, Don't you have staff that can do this for you Mr Mayor?
You can't advance your political aspirations without a good scandal.

I'll have to use campaign funds to pay them or maybe just have the Russians do it.... Hmmm... that reminds me, I have to delete some emails.

I love how you pretend this little sexual problem you have is somehow related to a bike's starter motor.

Even providing pictures and such...impressive con.