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does just slamming on the brakes cycle these spools ? or am I just wasting time. Locking up my brakes for the sake of using the ABS to avoid these problems?

Name Etc. wrote:does just slamming on the brakes cycle these spools ? or am I just wasting time. Locking up my brakes for the sake of using the ABS to avoid these problems?

Typically, an ABS system does a full cycle when slamming on the brakes, yes. Most do have a low speed cutoff so they don't start working when you pull up to a stop sign etc.

On a bike, I am pretty leery about testing the front this way. Although, on the 07 I had, I could do a firm and controlled brake and get the front to buzz. I didn't ever do it intentionally though. I'm too chicken.

So, the bench test may be a better, more comfortable, way to check the spools.

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i believe ours does have a speed cutoff. good empty parking lot, Some Loose Pea Gravel and a little Panic the first time.... mostly I wanted to know what to expect... but now I do regularly just to keep the parts moving.

Grab as much brake as you want. The front will kick in, and if you have the front going, the rear is easier to activate. Unless you're leaned over or sumthin, it's pretty non-eventful. Stop being pussies and do it.


* * * Not responsible if you do something weird and fall on your ass or any other body part. Motorcycles can be dangerous, and the operation of said motorcycles should only be done by a qualified person. Wear safety gear at all times, remembering that safety gear will not save you from serious injury or death in every single imaginable instance.

My rear stopped even trying to work. Finals are almost over. I will take it back to the dealer for the warranty this summer...

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I must have activated the rear ABS a dozen times over the SEO Ramble weekend. Works great. You gen II guys should get a real bike.

silverback wrote:My rear stopped even trying to work. Finals are almost over. I will take it back to the dealer for the warranty this summer...

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Um, those are GEN1 pos ABS modules that are going out.

Yes. I have extended warranty which was part of the sale...for a nominal fee of course. Might as well get my money out of them.

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silverback wrote:Yes. I have extended warranty which was part of the sale...for a nominal fee of course. Might as well get my money out of them.

Indeed you will, if the ABS metering block needs to be replaced the job will be roughly $1,400, depending on how much they would have ripped you for parts and labor. A new metering block can be found for around $840 but full retail is about $,1000. This job takes time too.

Alan, if I may offer some clarification so there is no confusion over "metering block" terminology..............

Gen 1 has only a hydraulic control assembly (the pump and spools), no metering valve or proportioning valve.
Gen II '06-'07 has a hydraulic control assembly, a metering valve (~$180) and a proportioning valve (~$80), the latter two in the rear circuit
Gen II '08-'12 is similar to earlier GenII's but the hydraulic unit and sensor system are different.
Gen III is similar to later GenII's but the hydraulic unit is different.

Prices for hydraulic control units from Cheap Cycle Parts are $1030, $1030, $586, and $548 respectively. You can get used ones on ebay for ~$150 and up.

The metering and proportioning valves are a common part number from '06 onward.

So, I called the dealer today. The ABS pump isn't covered under my extended warranty. So far the extended warranty is 0 for 2. Plus, the wouldn't negotiate on the purchase price specifically because it is an ABS bike.

I am not very happy with this situation.

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Worthless warranty. Which one is it, so none of us is ever tempted to buy it?

Read your warranty contract. It may be listed as not covered, big as shit. It may also NOT be listed, in which case, you may have a good argument.

Well, when I complained that extended warranties are a scam and didn't want it, the sales man assured me it was the best out there and wouldn't cause all the typical extended warranty bullshit. So, maybe I should just take the salesman to small claims court.

They were supposed to call back with information on refunding the price of the warranty, but no calls. Yesterday, they told me to take it out on the gravel and do a bunch of rear wheel slides and it will start working. Really? That sounds really safe...

I guess I will try to work the functional test several times and see if I can get the solenoid freed up, then flush the brakes with clean fluid.

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tominca wrote:Worthless warranty. Which one is it, so none of us is ever tempted to buy it?

I think its ACS. I'll double check when I get a chance.

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Nevermind. I will edit my post to say, those guys are thieving assholes and you should make sure they know that...Loudly, with as many customers in their place as possible.

HotRodZilla wrote:Nevermind. I will edit my post to say, those guys are thieving assholes and you should make sure they know that...Loudly, with as many customers in their place as possible.

Its OK that you're trying to say it may have been delineated in the paperwork. Its probably on me for believing Tue word of a salesman anyway. I should know better. I should know better about off brand extended warranties as well.

Still pisses me off.

No calls back yet from the dealership either.

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silverback wrote:

HotRodZilla wrote:Nevermind. I will edit my post to say, those guys are thieving assholes and you should make sure they know that...Loudly, with as many customers in their place as possible.

Its OK that you're trying to say it may have been delineated in the paperwork. Its probably on me for believing Tue word of a salesman anyway. I should know better. I should know better about off brand extended warranties as well.

Still pisses me off.

No calls back yet from the dealership either.

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Oh...I'm NOT trying to say it's your fault. I was gonna bring up a liability issue, but it's a fucked up way to act. Lol. Remember, I deal with criminals for a living.

I read the contract. It does not specifically say the ABS it covered or not covered. The provider is ACS in Arkansas.

I also did some checking on the system last weekend. I can activate the solenoid and with pressure on the brake, it pushes down. Indicating, at least the solenoid and valve are working. I don't have a clear picture of what the insides of the pump and valve block look like, so I have to go with what I know about automotive ABS systems. I am guessing the piston isn't moving with the motor. If it works like most auto ABS systems, there is a reservoir which is controlled by the movement of a piston to change the volume and make the caliper apply or disengage. When the solenoid is powered up, the brake fades, indicating the valve works, but when the functional test happens, it doesn't kickback aggressively like the front, so I assume the piston is not displacing as it should. I wish a used replacement didn't cost $550, I'd be more apt to take it apart and investigate further.

Anyone have intimate knowledge of the inner workings of pump and valve block?

Have you ever replaced the rear brake fluid? The brake fluid cylinder is on the right side of the bike behind the side-panel below the seat, band the ABS block is readily visible. The ABS system seems to fail more frequently on bikes that do not have routine maintenance of the brake systems and fluids. The diagnostics linked to earlier are pretty simple to do, and you can definitely feel the pulse if you activate the rear ABS.